Wildman

The way things are selling on e-bay, you can make $200 profit just on the tail lights :yes: :teehee: I never turn down an MJ in that price range, no mater what it is.........That's how I ended up with a 2.5 in the fleet :eek:

Yea......you got the idea :D :popcorn: Didn't know there was a youtube on that one :roll: Guest I don't have time to scout out all the you tubes........

the full XJ console going into an MJ, the lower heater panel on the dash need to be removed.

OK......we'll only be nice to you because you have a D44 :D :teehee:

So......here's a nice little trick for you pencil addicts........ Take a small piece of plan paper, scribble on it with the pencil to build up a nice layer of graphite, nice and shinny.........Place paper in Micro wave oven, set timer for 5 seconds, start MW and watch what happens :D But......you didn't hear this from me :roll:

Ideas were the one thing that AMC had plenty of....Development money was what they were short on. In 1981 or 1982 the mid-sized Cherokee was first photoed. At that time it was riding on a Hornet/Concord chassis. It was what AMC had in house for testing. They even had the Grand Cherokee on the drawing board when Chrysler took over. But Nash/American and AMC were considered to be more innovative than the big companies.. because they had no other choice. :agree: AMC did come out with some off the wall models throughout the 70's, like the "Pacer" and the Gremlin, but the one that really got attention, was the "Eagle" in '79, like at that time, whom would by a car with all-wheel-drive :dunno: Now, look at the big 3, and imports, how many models don't have AWD :hmm:

Now you speak up :doh: Yea, it took 3 weeks for your super snail mail to get this there :shake: Plus the cost of the shipping over seas (well, over the Niagara river) But......another part was included :D Just waiting for the results myself on how it all worked out :dunno:

I'll agree, you have a bad wire somewhere, should be one of the wires coming off the starter solenoid that's drawing current when your parked over night.......now, ya just got to find that :grrrr: wire. Here's the '88 electrical manual that BLHTAZ posted up some time ago. Do you by chance have an after market radio that some PO installed??? Or an alarm system?? Any after market item could be wired up wrong and causing the draw.

Just a heads up..........but the one I have, just has a piece of black plastic glued over the slot, don't know if this came OEM or not :dunno: You think Jeep made a special run just for the insert for the MJ :hmm: ........Not!!!

:yes: In most cases........the manual and the auto engine bay harness are the same. You'll find several connectors that are not used on either one, IE: the TPS, 2 connectors for an auto, and one connector for the manual tranny (with the 2nd one just laying there dormant) Eliminating the C101 connector should have no effect on the connection to the ECU, providing the proper ECU is used (See above)

Even though it's "rust free" with it being a 2wd........and totaled :eek: Its worth $300 tops. With an impact like that.......and the framed tweaked........there are a lot more "hidden" damaged there :roll:

:agree: drill a 1/2" hole on both sides, then just stick a plug in it when you get the leak fixed.

Yea, there is one small bolt from the engine bay side that hold the fuse box together. It takes a 1/4" socket, and it's recessed in the connector. A universal joint is a big help in getting the bolt loose, and the bolt will stay with the connector. Then there are two Phillips head sheet metal screws that hold the fuse box to the fire wall.

Yea.......just need to find a dually D60 for the setup, or change the hubs out :hmm: What axles came with the J20?? This full size stuff is all new to me :oops: I'll stick with the mid-size stuff to finish up some projects first.......then move up to the full size beast next :D

And.........rust at the rockers and cab back corners...... Price depends on the area your in (location) but what you posted on year and mileage, that sounds about the right price range for a 2wd. Maybe in the 1200 range is more like it, but depends on how many you have seen in your location. As Geonovast wrote.........the 2wd to 4wd is a very easy swap, and XJ's make perfect donors. Your looking at a '90, so that's still Renix, any XJ from '86 - '90 will be Renix, and '91 - '95 (or '96) would also work for the drive line :brows:

That's how I was in Tennessee 5 years ago, couldn't under stand a single word :wall: :rotfl2: The one guy from up here I was visiting, use to "translate" for me :D

That bolt your looking for is not seen, it's tucked into the engine side of the block........You'll see a "recess" on the center of the block, and that's it........it's kind of a feely type thing :roll:

If I remember right........the clutch lines are metric, not English sized, "French" tranny ya know :roll: So, your in the right country to find a new metric fitting :D Bleeding the clutch is easy........just open the bleeder and let it gravity bleed. Keep the reservoir filled and you should have no problems........after a few minutes of fluid running out of the bleeder, you should be done.

Yea........I like your idea with the flat bed........doing the same some day here with the J20 I picked up this fall........with the shot bed........just not planning on the duallys.......just yet :roll: :hmm: would be a use for a D70 I'll have after stripping down an old E350 cuber :hmm:

:rotf: For a man who's been all over the world........many times.......it don't take you long to learn the native tongue, does it............

Yea.........That's a deal I'll take :yes: I know you got hit with that Arctic freeze that the whole country got........but that's it for you......we have another 2 months of this ahead of us :headpop: For the green house........I have a whole bunch of 1/4" Tempered glass left over :brows: Had one guy pick up a bunch last summer for his project. The rest of your list......not a problem :D Just did that to a house this past October :brows: As far as the Miller's ..........Jeff can have my ration........which I'm sure he'll take ;) Me, I just need 2 pots of coffee a day to keep going :D I guest we can plan this right after Jeff gets his garage painted........unless he wants me to stop to pick him up and bring a paint brush......... :roll: Of course.......we might need some time off to scrounge the local JY's for MJ parts to really make the trip worth while :D

Manual should idle around 500-600........auto's about 700-800 RPM's. Did you check for vacuum leaks??? Check the MAP???

For what there selling for on flea-bay.......you could afford to pay for my trip down to the nice warm south for the rest of the winter :yes: And up here in the rust belt.......we have to learn how to repair the rusted out tail gates :( I got to get my write up done one of these days :roll: Of course........some of us are getting whole *rust bucket* MJ's for the price of the tail gate you posted :brows:

As Eagle stated, there is a bolt from the engine bay, it takes a 1/4" socket and a universal to remove........you should remove your old one first to see if the engine bay side is also shot. On the inside, there are 2 sheet metal screws holding the fuse block to the fire wall. An easy way to replace the fuse block is to replace the entire wire harness, it's all plug and play, ever single connector is different enough that you can't make a mistake by connecting the wrong connector. The best way to replace the interior harness is to remove the dash, as the harness is clipped to the back side of the dash. See this for dash removal.......viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14170 If the donor is a auto, you will not need the transmission harness, or the tranny computer. There is a difference in the ECU's......... 4.0 - '87-88 = Manual #5409 - Auto #5406 4.0 - '89-90 = Manual #5429 - Auto #5428 That's the last 4 numbers on the label (IE: 5400-5428) An auto will switch with a manual........but......I wouldn't do it. There also a difference in the idle RPM's between the auto and the manual, and this reads back to the ECU. There is no difference with the column shift vs. the manual/floor shift, the steering column is difference, but not the connectors at the base. The other difference you'll find, if you need to do the engine bay harness, is the '88 will have the C101 connector, and the '89 will not, no big difference there. Your correct on the TPS, the manual only uses one of the connectors, the other connector is for the auto TPS, which in turns.......reads at the auto ECU *see above* So, it all sounds like alot of work, but, it's really not, once you get the dash out, your half way there, getting it back in.........well, your almost done :D But, before you even start this........Replace the Clutch Master Cyl. So.......considering all this info, and with your rust free CA MJ's......is it worth it :dunno:

:agree: On the right (passenger) side, there are 2 prongs that a "flat" cap connector plugs into for the reverse lights. Also, there is a fuse in the fuse box for the lights.