Wildman

Very nice looking lwb :yes: Tow hooks on the front :hmm: ........."Off Road Package" :brows: You got it for a good price too, with all the extras :thumbsup: Now that.......I just might have to stick some where......... :rotf: Oh.......and welcome to the CC :wavey:

If no one else comes up with one, I got an AM/FM cassette that I pulled out of an '88 Olympic model, and I know the cassette works, and it will even come with the AC/DC cassette that was in it :D It also has the AMC/JEEP markings on it :yes: Drop me a PM if you want it.

I vote for the Kerosene style heater. Only because that's what I've been using the past 20 years on heating a shop :D Yes, Kerosene has a 'stink' to it, but in the long run, it's a lot less costly. I switch over to off road Diesel when the price of Kerosene went thru the roof, and yes, we've had problems when it gets really cold, like under 20*, but when I get the 55 gallon drum filled, I'll add some Kerosene (10 gallons) to the top to "loosen" it up some. Last winter, we did alot of shop work, for almost 2 months, every day, and the total cost to heat the shop, when we were in there, was less than $150. Also.......with the salamander, you can get a thermostat to control the on and off. If your heating a 24 x 24 garage, insulated, you should be fine with a 60-80K unit, it will heat up really fast :D Propane is just too costly around here. Radiant heaters are the cleanest to burn, but, they will warm you up, not the objects around you, so, if your thawing out a frozen up car, it will take forever. Plus, as noted, they suck thru the propane like nothing, I tried a big old "top hat" heater years ago, and that would run 2 days on 1, 100 pound tank :( Which ever one you go with, keep in mind, that with out the heater being vented, you will pickup a considerable amount of moister in the garage from the burning fuel.

If it's only leaking at the wire in-put, you can pull the sending unit out, and there is a 0-ring on the under side of the wire connector, held on from the inside by a "snap" nut, the nut you'll have to cut off, and replace it with a new one. Both the nut and the 0-ring are 3/8" size. Adding a little gas prof RTV also helps ;)

:doh: I forgot about that :oops: I'm going to go craw back into my Renix world now :dunce:

Oh.......... :rotfl2:

I suggest you get some 1/8 in wall tubing and bend it by hand. Then get a piece of 1/8 angle iron and try bending it. See which one is easier. The point is........you can bend round tubing by hand, take a piece of brake line, and bend it by hand..........but. angle with the 90* "fold", it will not bend as easy, or as tight of a bend, at least with out heat.

From what your write, and from what you change out, parts wise, what your experiencing sounds like a plugged EGR valve. A quick (and cheap) test is to pull the vacuum line off the EGR valve, and plug the line with a screw/bolt, and see how it runs. A plugged EGR will choke out the engine, and not let it run, or even start.

Assuming the "big holes" are for plug welds.........What you do if you have a "weak" spot (aka......frame rot) right at one or two of the plug welds :hmm: Like I said, that's a lot of sticks of steel to make my own "stiffeners" :brows:

Now, that I missed........of course, I don't spend alot of time on e-bay....... :roll: Not saying your wrong, just have not see that myself :dunno: And.......what's up with your typing........your getting better, is that the new net book you just got??? *I can read almost every word your typing now* :teehee:

Angle or any shape with a 90* bend is much stronger in 2 directions than round, or tubing is. So, any angle shape would support, or hold up to bending and flexing, where a round shape, would be easy to bend, or even "collapse" with-in it's self. (I see Mr. Eagle beat me to the punch ;) )

I'm sure you could use the extra $$$$ at this time :D Honestly..........that is the highest price I've seen for a pair of tail lights, I mean I've seen the $160 range, but never the price you got....... :thumbsup: The thing is........you could do the same thing next week, and not see that price again :dunno: I was just razzing you, cause you "thought" you paid too much for them, man, I wish the PnP I hit would get some in.......They charge $11.95 out the door for tail lights :D

Yea, that is interesting............ But........I can buy a whole lot of steel for the price there asking for just 2 "frame stiffeners" and also make it fit where it has to go. Just another item on the market for the 'unknowing buyer' :shake:

Man........reading this post gets me down :( Now I need to decide to hang on to "parts" or start selling them off :hmm: Kind of crazy that I'm sitting on over 6 pairs of tail lights :nuts: Unless...........the longer I hold them, the higher the price will be in the future :yes: SW2........you don't feel too bad about what you had to pay for the tail lights from the PnP now......do you????

Wow........the Wrenches going Wild made the big time :clapping: Nice write up Paul.......and yes, I know how Paul is on the very small details of everything ;) Along with all the support he adds to the CC :thumbsup:

Pat - Hope thing take a turn for the better for you :D Keep up the good spirits, and keep us informed :yes: On a side note...........that steel plate in your right leg..........is that kind of like a splice plate on a uni-body frame repair???? :hmm: If it is.........then your in about the same shape as Pong is......... :teehee: Yea, if the Doc tells you to stay off the leg........Do IT!!! Some Doc's are quacks, we all know that, but.......there's a reason he told you that ;)

The "chattering" you speak of is generally caused by "hot" spots on the flywheel. The only way to correct that problem is to replace the flywheel with a New (not resurfaced) flywheel. Yes, I thought of the slave cyl being defective, or the "finger" on the pressure plate could be bent, or damaged/wore out. Now many miles do you have on this truck???? With you having prior problems this past summer, and now, it just might be time to replace the clutch/pressure plate, slave, and flywheel :dunno:

:thumbsup: If your fuel pump ran for about 3 seconds, then that's what it's should do, once the pressure is reached, 31 psi with the vacuum hose connected to the pressure regulator, the pump will shut down, or stop pumping, until the pressure drops, you can just use a bunch of rags around the schrader valve, and push the needle down until the pump kicks on again, to double check that. If you go buy a fuel pressure gauge, check out the one Advance auto parts has, it also has the "flow" valve, with the tubing attached, it's twice the money than the one that leaks like a sieve from Harbor Fright is (experience speaking here :roll: ) http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... RP2018____ Your NO spark would lead back to the CPS, or the wires, and/or connector. CW's statement above is very true with these trucks, there mostly a "negative" contact system, that the more, added grounds, the better things work on them.

Yes, it's possible that the brake fluid that's used in the clutch master, DOT 3, Which is glycol based, has adsorbed water, and "froze". Is there anyway you can get a heat gun, or even a hair dryer in there to hit the master and the line with some heat??? Once you get it thawed out, it might be a real good idea to flush out the old (20 year old) fluid, and replace it with DOT 5, that's silicone based.

OK.......I know there was a cut off date for the C4C to be crushed.......but I didn't know it was 180 days......... :hmm: I know the yard I hit, they do a quick turn over anyways, like 2-3 weeks, and the car/truck is out of there, but both there "storage" lots are still filled with new victims :D But alot of them are insurance clams, and just rusted out wrecks.

:shake: There ya go knocking Buffalo and the all the Blizzards we get :oops: We get a couple of "lake effect" storms (like the one yesterday) per year, and you just happen to be in one of them :dunno: Fact is........Syracuse get's almost twice as much snow than Buffalo does each year. Oh, and if you were on Rt 20, that runs parallel with the thruway (I-90) and is a 'major' Intrastate thru here, and you were only 4 block from my shop :D You want to compare driving in blizzards.........I drove 90 mile thru the Blizzard of '77, from Wellsville (collage) to Lancaster, only to be stopped 4 miles from home, because of the 6 foot high drift on Rt 20/78 :fs1: Spent the night in a little dinner with 65+ other people, the dinner only held about 30 at the most, and next morning.......the dinner owner had a front end loader, that dug the drift out, and we were only able to go north on Rt 20/78, one lane, in some places, until I got to Lancaster, 2 lanes on a 5 lane highway, only to dig out my parents driveway that had 4 feet of snow in it :eek: That was the one that did shut down the city for over a week, and at some of the intersections, you could walk the drifts and had to step over the traffic lights that were buried in the drifts, and of course the cars that were still buried there too.

I assume you meant to say a........1989??? Yes, remove the front drive shaft, and check the section of the shaft where it slides together, I also have a "clicking" noise from that slide section being worn, the problem is......it's not re-build-able, only replaceable :( When I go into 4wd, the "clicking" noise goes away, from the pressure on the drive shaft.

If you have replaced the ground strap from the fire wall to the rear of the engine, Good :thumbsup: Check the ground (-) at the oil dip stick stud, there should be 2 additional, like 14 ga wires also connected to the stud. One of the wire is the ground to the ECU. If anything, add an additional ground wire from the mounting (steel) plate of the ECU to the stud, or even to the negative post on the battery. I have seen a fuel pump problem with the ECU ground broken off :eek: Not properly grounded, it will not let the pump run, let alone let the engine spark. As far as the black widows.............that's your problem :eek: Glad I don't have to deal with them up here :D

Nah... Trannies, and rad's are fine... Just not "Smog causing 4.0l's"... :fs1: Rob L. :agree: The drive line parts are OK, it's just engine (oiled) parts that can not be reused. And, with that said.........getting an AW4 off a C4C engine is not an easy task.........Just ask me or Cherokee about that one :roll: But on a side note, the C4C are to be crushed with-in 90 days, and were coming up to that dead line now..........the P-n-P I was at on Saturday, the pickings are getting slim, and not alot of C4C still in the yard.

Ya know...........I lurked around here for over year before I sign up........I've had some bad experiences in other forms, and just wanted to see what became of this one.......and, well, I guest we all can see where it came from, were it went, and what it has become :D Pete, you have done a fine job on keeping this form up and running for the past (almost) 5 years :bowdown: I almost hate to say this.........But, I'm personally responsible for silencing 3 members :oops: (I bought there MJ's from them, and they seam to drop out of here :dunno: ) I'm always surprised to see new members join, that "just bought a MJ" even thought these trucks are 20+ years old :eek: Ya wonder if these things will ever lose interest, or just die off like some other models over the years, but, NO, they keep on chugging along :yes: I've had a lot of 'fun' in here, and meet alot of new people over the MJ's, and hope to continue on for a few more years :D Just as long that the darn day job don't keep messing up my CC time :fs1: