Wildman

Yea I do, it's an 8 foot box, with the 360 carb'ed engine too :brows: Oh, wait a minute.........wrong model :doh: But it still says Jeep On the hood :D I got to drop this guy a note that I got the 8 foot cap for that box, might even have the 8 foot bed liner too. :teehee:

famous last words. :D Well..........he did have the MJ up for sale at one time :shake: But decide to keep it and have all the fun the rest of us have :banana: To bad #2 don't have to deal with all the rust like we have to deal with :fs1:

You asking about the rear height sensing proportioning valve??? That could be your problem with the drum brakes not 'moving' or working. There are no parts available to re-build the valve, and most of us have just removed the valve, re-plumbed the hard lines to one rear supply line. Here's a couple of links for you to follow up on the repair/replacement- viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13434 http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4917

Is this the link your looking for??? viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734&view=unread#unread I too am upgrading to a new 'puter :ack: and no time to get everything moved over :fs1:

It would be almost impossible to remove the oil pan with out dropping the exhaust down. I know.......you didn't want to hear that. But.......the manifold bolts are not that hard to replace, the OEM's are pressed into the manifold, and can be knocked out, and replaced with standard 3/8" bolts.

Here's a zip file that might help you with the steering column and ignition switch - http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... Switch.zip

Do your parking lights, lighter or dome lights work??? Those are not thru the ignition switch, there "hot" all the time. Also......the Key switch, pushes a rod to the ignition switch, located at the base of the steering column. Like two different "ignition" switches. Pull the plastic loom off the battery cables, and check them for any missing insulation, or corrosion. The fusible link is off the starter relay (near the battery), back to the right hand tower (where the 3 or 4 relays are) you'll feel it in the wire, a lump, and pull on it, if it comes apart, the link is shot. Here's a link that might help you out - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Ele ... straps.htm

It took me 2 cups of coffee to get thru the story :roll: Man.......don't ya just love people that wheel and deal like that....... :headpop: I had one last year August, just like that, But.......I went home empty........and glad I did. The guy thought he could get $350 from the scrap yard for a '87 2.5 2wd MJ, that 1/3 of the weight was rusted away :teehee: Oh, and the scrap yard was 40 miles away :rotfl2: Nice job Rob, I'm sure that guy slept good last night :shake:

They should be a 7/16" SAE bolts, with a 1/2" head hole (for alignment and clearance) I see where your getting the 5/8" from, Rule of thumb........the bolt head (or nut) is 3/16" larger that the bolt........IE: 7/16" + 3/16" = 5/8"

Most interesting story I've read today - http://hosted.ap.org/dynamic/stories/U/ ... TE=DEFAULT And -

Ok.......back to basics........What plugs did you install??? The 4.0 lives for standard Champion #4430 and loves NGK #7373, It hates any type of Platinum plug :no: What type of "backfiring" are you getting.......thru the exhaust or thru the throttle body?? Assuming you have "Fresh gas" gas in the tank??? You mention that the truck sat for years........did you, or the PO find any mouse nests any wheres?? Mice like to chew on wires. Here's a "little" web site that might help you diagnosis all the sensors on the Renix - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Yes, you could have a bad knock sensor throwing off the timing. I tossed out the timing chain idea, not saying that it's the root of the problem, but almost always the caused of exhaust backfiring, but with your mileage in the upper 100's, that "could" be a cause. With the Renix 4.0, advanced and retarded timing being controlled thru the ECU, with input from the sensors, after going thru all the sensors, that check out OK, that leads back to one source. You have no idea how the truck was treated thru it's life, and someone with a very heavy right foot, whom loved to rocket launch, and run the truck at top speed, could have been in the seat. With the steel sprockets and double row timing chain the 4.0 has, the expected life is well over 300K+, unless the engine was abused. I see garyindina beat me to the Lunghd link ;)

I understand now, yea, inside the socket it's self :yes: I thought you meant like on a license plate socket, where the outside metal jacket has "prongs" that "hold" the socket in place.

My first question.........How many miles on this '87???? Reason I ask, almost the most likely cause of back firing is the timing is off, and on the 4.0, the timing is controlled by the ECU. No timing marks to check and NO adjustment to the dizzy. The only way the timing can be off is by a stretched timing chain. High mileage = timing chain bad. A bad EGR valve on the 4.0 will just about choke the engine right out. Plugging the vacuum line will not have any effect on the operation of the 4.0. Loose the Chilton's, the Hanes manual is much better, you can pick one up on e-bay for peanuts, that is about as close to the FSM that you can get.

There should be an additional ground from the front header panel harness right behind the left headlight, on the inner fender. Oizzy is correct........the replacement sockets are a "Help" item.......Ford Socket. But, the wire colors are not right, and I can't remember which 2 need to be connected :hmm: Not applicable here, the light lenses are plastic, and so are the sockets.

The C101 connector was only used on the '87 and '88 model years, both in the MJ and the XJ, it's located just to the right of the MAP sensor, on the firewall. Best picture of one I have, it's on the upper left corner - You can use it in a swap either way, but, you must use both "half's" of the harness in the engine compartment.

:agree: With the above statements. Also.......if this is truly a OEM mounted plow, the front bumper will be mounted on the outside of the plow undercarriage, with the "light" bar / pump mount behind the front bumper, and it will have extended bumper ends, longer than the stock bumper ends. Check the front end of the Uni-body / frame for any damage, I've seen one MJ where the front frame section was bend down and cracked from the use of a Meyers plow. In the time..........Both Myers (the "2 Meter plow" OEM) and Sno-way (80" steel and Lexan) offered the undercarriage for the MJ and the XJ's. The plow blade it's self is not worth much, it's the undercarriage that has the value.

Nice job on the restoration :thumbsup: (Where's that MJ of the month link...... :hmm: )

Wow......Quite the story :eek: Amazing how a little spirier bite can turn into something like this. Just glad that your still with us here :D , and Don't let this "little" setback change your plans for the future. Keep your MJ with the stick, and your new goal is to drive it the way its meant to be driven, I'm sure you'll be back it to the drivers seat in a few weeks ;) Best of luck to you :thumbsup:

I could probably get cleared to buy it, but still wouldn't do much good. Just a beat up old truck with no title and no engine. And you said it sold for $200 :eek: Man, your thinking inside the box...........no paper work, beat up??? Who cares. You don't think there are any usable parts on that thing???? A rust free swb box, and you'll have your $$ back, or if the price of tail lights keep climbing up, you'll have your $$ back........... :shake: I know around here, the JY's were paying the dealers $50 for the C4C, and we hit one PnP yard and got alot of parts off a '90 XJ......including a AW4 & 242 :brows: Just had a hell of a time getting the AW4 off thru the torque converter :fs1: But......it was worth it. All the parts we stripped off totaled just over $200.

If you do go with an 4.0 engine swap, in the Renix era, you should have no problems getting it done in one weekend. Just start on in Friday night, and by Saturday night, you should be in real good shape, leaving Sunday for odds and ends, and watching a game or two.

Unless...........you make friends with someone whom can bid on it....... :brows:

There not OEM??? :hmm: Yea, I took them for some mid '80's JCW special :rotfl2:

Oh yea I would :fs1: ...........I check them every morning :D Plus the Popo do a good job on checking the whole compound now........after we all had problems last summer :headpop:

No, Not really.................Just have not gotten any new MJ's for the past 3 months :fs1: .......So I needed something to fill in the gap :oops: Although...........in about 2 weeks I'll have that gap filled :D Man........I'm reading this 6800# and I'm thinking of the pull.........Yea, it could be :hmm: The box is all dented up from hauling "firewood" I'm told......... :roll: Rob, didn't you just ask last week about dents vs. rot???? Right now......and the boat is not mine......I'm storing it for someone......who is in Florida right now :roll: The plan is to just park this somewheres and think about what to do with it in the far future. Any one want to buy a boat??????? I need the room :fs1:

:hmm: I was guesting at about 4800.........with out the extra engine. I smoked my brakes on the cuber getting this off the side of the mountain from the guys place :headpop: It was one tough pull all the way back...........40 going up hill..........70 going down hill......not counting the red light I blew thru in Texaco town............ :roll: