Wildman

Or.......you can use the part numbers from this link to tell your dealer what O-rings you need - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... -Rings.htm The problem with the "help" kit, there are 10 O-rings you don't need, and the large one you do need is not in the kit.........found this out the 'hard' way :roll:

Your right........ :rotf: So........how much for a storage unit?????? :D The thing is........with us up in the rust belt, when ever "we" see a southern MJ.....it's just..... :drool: Just knowing this thing will not have a rusted out "uni-frame" Not having to get the torches out to change the oil filter or lug nuts.........and knowing that while it all apart, all the seals can be changed, well, that just makes it much more interesting :yes: I'll add..........one of "us" should decide about this before the thing is gone, or parted out :eek:

:agree: I've replaced the input/output tranny seals, and the seals on the transfer case too while it's all out, best time to do it, and the cost of the seals is "cheap" enough to do it now, that to pull everything apart 6 months from now :fs1: After 20 years of wear and tear and age, the seals just don't seam to want to last much longer :roll: Installing a new CPS is also not a bad idea either, seeing how they "fail" on a moments notice.

Yea........the 12 step program seam to work...........I'm stuck at 12 MJ's and haven't add any more in the past 3 months :fs1: But, one is almost parted out, so I need a replacement for that one. :doh: that right, the year isn't over........yet......... Just trying to find a D35 for someone else, with 4.10's, for their 2wd, And, thinking of what I might have "on hand" :roll: Yea, I know, the only "true" way of knowing, is to pull the cover off and read the gears, but, just a guest of what might be there, makes it worth while to pull the cover. I got the "half price" thing.......but who wants a 2wd in the north country :hmm: My first one was 2wd, 2.5, but I've out grew that, 4wd and 4.0 is all I want now :yes: Oh, and parts...........yea, just ask Cherokee about that. He know where more parts are in the shop than I do now :rotfl2:

Good.........I was hoping it was somewhere around the 4.10 range :brows: (note.......I know, craw under and hope a tag's still hanging there........) Thanks Geonovast :D

1986 MJ, 2.5 with 3 speed automatic tranny. 2wd. Anybody have an idea what the D35 gears "should" be????

Man........I've been thinking about this thing all day now........... Mr. aemsee........... :fs1: So.......what ya thinking about......... Road Trip :banana: So, you want me to go get it, put it back together, and you'll buy it off me :D Or, do you want me to just deliver it to you in the "baskets" :D Well.......I do need to make a trip down to NC.......and this is Kind of on the way back :roll: I'll think about it.........

Having broken down on the road before myself........... :fs1: Your best bet is to find a small "local" shop that can do the job, has the tools and equipment and have you out in a couple hours, Done. You need to get the oil pan off, and some times you need to drop the axle all the way down, or even jack up the engine, at worst, remove the oil pump to get the pan to clear off. And a lift is the best item to get the truck on, so the above can be done. I don't think you'll like crawling under the truck on stands, with all the oil dripping down on you. You only need to remove the rear main cap to get the RMS out. The upper section slides out. I don't know the cap bolt size off hand, but the main cap bolts are torque to 80 ft lbs.

Me think Mr. aemsee is taunting me :hmm: Yes, I've thought about it, yes, it's temping, Yea I'm thinking hard about it :D But, distance......... :dunno: Do I have the room........... :dunno: Do I need a '91.......... :yes: Do I have the time.......... :headpop: I agree, it would be better to be put back together whole than to be parted out. I have rust buckets that make great parts donors :roll:

But Easter only comes one day a year............ :hmm:

Yes, the injectors are "fired" directly from the ECU. If you have no power to one or more injectors, it could be a bug in the ECU. That could also be causing your "very hard starting" problem too. Before you swapped this engine, did the original engine run???? Best thing is to get a good used ECU and swap that out before you go any further. If you have a pick-n-pull near you, or a good junk yard, try to find one of like year and the really only difference in all the ECU's ('87-'90) is either an automatic tranny or the manual transmission. If your near me, I'll loan you one to see it that's your problem :D

Before you start changing all your pulleys, and water pump.........Did you install a new serpentine belt???? An old, worn out, "aged", stretched serpentine belt can make all kinds of noise just on it's own. If your serpentine belt is truly out of alignment, the only 2 causes of that are the power steering pump pulley being out of align, the pulley should be flush with the end of the shaft. Or the harmonic balancer is coming apart. Take a very good look at the harmonic balancer, and see if the 'inner' section is aligned with the 'outer' section, and that NO rubber is sticking out of the connection, either in the front or the rear of the balancer.

:wavey: Mr. Hornbrod You could be right, I'm just doing this off the top of me head........ :headpop:

Because you said you had it all under control.........and we all went home early :D Yes.......Experience, Experience, Experience.........Now that makes you a Pro :D I bet the next clutch job, you can do in your sleep :yes:

:agree: You can not change the axle shafts that are made for a non-C clip to a C-clip, or '91+. 2 totally different axle shaft mounting and bearing set-ups. Your best bet is to get the Correct brake parts for the '91+ axle, with the 9" drums and make that one complete. And, I think Eagle is correct, that the backing plates are totally different, and not interchangeable.

Yea, used "good condition" window regulators are worth something. Because it's hard to find good working used regulators. You seen the price of "new" ones, so yea, there worth hanging on to.

OK......if your "new" D35 will accept the wheel cyl's then your OK. It's the "new" D35 is a '91 or '92, and the wheel cyl's don't fit the backing plate, then you'll need to get the newer style to make it all work.

Disconnect the supply line at the fuel filter, put the line in a gas can, and cycle the key on and off, many times, that will turn the pump on for a few seconds, and it will stop on it's own, and turn the ignition off, and back on, it will "pump" the tank down for you :D

Yes you can.........how deep are your pockets????? http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... r&catid=95

OK.......from what year??? I know the front brakes were changed in '91, and from my searching, the rear wheel cylinders were also changed - '89 = Raybestos WC17507 (LF) WC17508 (RT) '91 = Raybestos WC37844 (LT & RT) Note- bleeder is centered on wheel cyl. What effect does the year change have to do with your D35's??? Or.....are you going to say there from the same year MJ :dunno:

I agree that the voltage at the fuel pump should be 12vdc. But, the fuel pump also does not run continually, once pressure is reached, the pump does not run. Check out this scan pages, there from the '87 electrical troubleshooting manual for the 60 series (MJ) it's a bad scan, because it's a 2 page fold out, and I can't scan both pages at once :oops: You mention that it has "plenty of gas", but......how fresh is the gas??? It's not 4 years old, is it???

The question is......... Which D35 do you have :hmm: Do you have a "new" D35 from a XJ, with the 9" brake drums, that your using on a MJ that "had" 10" brake drums?????? And that's why the wheel cylinders are different sizes?????

Bar's leak is a crap shoot if it will work, it's the best thing to really plug up your cooling system, like the radiator :eek: Someone had a similar coolant leak "out side" the cylinder head some time ago, and it turn out to be the soft plugs leaking (soft plug / freeze plug / welsh plug, what ever you want to call it) Very hard to see because there located under / behind the manifold. Check this out - http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoWelshPlugs1.htm Just tossing it out there to double check, before you start tearing the heads off :roll:

I've reinstalled the top 2 male torx screws before :D I just consider them as a "anti-tamper" screw :brows: The worst clutch job I've done, the pilot shaft "welded" it's self into the pilot bearing :fs1: I had to use a come-along from the tranny to the rear axle to "pull" the tranny out :headpop: Talk about many hours under the truck, turning the tranny every which way, and prying on it with everything on hand :wall:

:rotf: No, nothing like that, Me, out on the water........No Way :eek: I don't even like driving over bridges :eek: I had to drive over this bridge 2 weeks ago, and I did it with my eyes closed :yes: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Grand_Island_Bridge I'm a land lover, and I keep it that way :D And, I'm not installing any parts on new cars, I don't work on any vehicles that's newer than 14 year old. Mr. Aemsee......... I seen that add a couple weeks ago, I think I dropped him a e-mail, and never heard back. Look at his e-mail addie.......sounds like a "chop shop" dude that thinks parts are worth 50 times there true value. I'll drop him another mail and see what happens. I thought school was starting like.........next week??? What's the students going to do??? The fork lift is to unload units that are coming out of Montreal (yea Canada) but not auto parts, It's a product that I've been installing for over 6 years thru someone else, and I got the direct lead from the manufacture, and set things up to be a Dealer and still the installer, but directly thru them, no more middle man, and waiting 3 months to get paid for the installs :fs1: Just waiting for the jobs to be ready, and I've got 4 installs to do, (2 in the Rochester area :brows: ) plus my door jobs. I've been looking for 6 months for a lift, missed a few, and found this one at a good price, so........I grabbed it :D Unload the crates, store them, and when ready, haul the crates out to the cuber and load up the van. Less hand work. Plus, one of the jobs I bid, I would need it on the job site for an install. And if any more MJ's find me, I'll start stacking them up :yes: