Wildman

Well.........that answers a few questions.......... But.....how long have you owned this '86 MJ???? I'll bet that the 'former' owner swap out the front axle at one point :dunno:

Although there have been a couple posts on this subject............. I've come across these and been wondering if there even close to fitting for replacement window wipes :hmm: http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... elID=38889 But even that set runs around $60 :eek: Here's a link to the CRL main page for door weather stripping.........If anyone's even tried any of there replacement moldings. http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... tory=19748

I Checked a '93 XJ 2wd axle I got laying in the shop, and it is the 2 piece rotor / hub as your explaining Mr. Hornbrod. I also mic'ed the nut, and that one was 32mm :hmm:

You say it's a '2 piece' rotor?? A 2wd should be a 'one piece', Hub and rotor combo. The 4wd has the 2 piece, separate hub and rotor that slides over the hub/wheel studs. It's been some time since I've pulled a 2wd apart........But I'm thinking it's 28mm nut ( 1-1/16"):hmm: For a 2wd, it should not be on that tight, only 21 ft lbs, and backed off 1/2 turn and most times you can get it off with a pair of channel locks. Over tighten, it puts added wear on the axle bearings. 4wd the hub nut is 175 ft lbs.

:typing: Your not new here.........are you??? :rotfl2: :popcorn:

One note..........Do Not have the Flywheel Resurfaced!!!! :eek: As per the FSM, the OEM flywheel has a Concave surface, and resurfacing it takes out the concave. The only proper way is to replace, with new flywheel. there about $70 and well worth it in the long run. Other wise.........I'm running a BA10, and only have shifting issues when it's cold. And.......Welcome to the CC :waving:

All the steel brake lines on the MJ are 3/16" The most important step on doing your own brake lines is, Double Flare !!!! Every connection. Most of the the line fitting are 3/8" X 3/16" hollow nuts (shorts). There are one or 2 "odd" fittings at the distribution valve (near master cyl) which you can re-use. This place is around the corner from me, and the at one time carried XJ brake lines, which would do the front for the most part. http://www.classictube.com/index.asp They also sell stock and accessories.

Or.........the top section from the rear wheel well of a XJ is a perfect match :brows: There are NO MJ box panels available at any suppliers anymore :(

And........you didn't take it home with you....... :shake: What......not enough chrome on it for your taste????? And.........What's this "rust-free body" you speak of...... :dunno:

Well stop on by........I got a '96 Country XJ just waiting to be tore into :brows:

Are both engines Renix era??? Is the engine your swapping from a XJ Renix era engine. Other wise, you'll have issues with the intake manifold and the throttle body. If your swapping the 4.0 Renix from both, you only need to change over the throttle body, it will give you the TV bracket and the automatic IAC. Also, you'll need to take the flywheel off the manual engine and install the Flex plate from the automatic. Your OEM ECU will work with any AW4 that is from the '87-95 years were talking about above, you still have the transmission controller in place. I think your original question has been answered above, you can not use a 2wd auto tranny with a transfer case, it must be a 4wd transmission to bolt a transfer case to.

Not sure if this is the thread I was thinking about, but it might be: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=174770 I'll agree with you on that one, that's like saying at some point ( I'm thinking after November of '88) all 5 speed manuals were AX5's in the '89 model year. I also left out the '96 model year, cause I couldn't remember off hand if they changed in the '96 or '97 model year to the newer ECU controlled trannys. So I played that one safe, knowing that the '96 model year went to the OBD II system. I was just adding info I know to you original post, on what years could be donors to our Renix era units :D

Man.......if you were closer to me......... I've got all kinds of Donors, low mileage, just no steel holding them together any more :( That MJ sounds too good to be a donor.........can't wait for the pictures to come thru. And with the speakers toss in on the deal, I think a great price :yes: So.......why not check that one out, do the couple repairs, and drive that one. Oh, and if the engine only has 2500 miles........I wonder why he didn't replace the "known to fail" flex plate with the engine swap :hmm:

:hmm: No spark and no fuel (meaning the injectors are not pulsing open) = problem with the ECU. Take your volt meter, with the new leads, set on DC and touch a hot lead from the fuse panel, to the ECU base and see if you have a reading (12VDC)........meaning, see if the ECU is grounded before you pull it out (and I hope you have small hands to reach up behind the dash) If you have voltage with the key on at the right hand tower and it cranks (starter engages) I wouldn't think you have a problem with the ignition switch or any thing at the steering column :dunno:

Great Info #2 :yes: Read all thru that and I know what I want to order on my next MJ :D If only they still made new ones............. :fs1:

I was just adding additional info to jpnjim post about the year difference. There is NO difference in the AW4 transmission controller between the 2wd and the 4wd, that's independent of the tranny, and makes that difference with the Transfer case (Manual engagement) :brows: The transmission controller sends and receives signals from the ECU for shifting, braking, acceleration, via controlling the solenoids in the tranny. The tranny controller is found on the back side of the knee panel, about under the radio/heater controls, held in place with a Velcro strip. The speedo from the '91-'95 AW4 is electric operated, and the entire quill is changed out with the mechanical controlled quill from the Renix era, direct change out. Plus, the speedo gear needs to be changed out with what axle ratio your running (including tire size) navigator points out a Very Important fact about the axles :thumbsup: Other notes to consider when swapping an AW4 in place of a manual, including a transfer case, is the length of the speedo cable, Adding the TV (Throttle Valve) cable bracket to the throttle body (Cherokee just schooled me that one) and changing the IAC from a manual to the automatic control (Different idle RPM's) and the ECU to an auto control unit. Plus changing the brake pedal, unless you want 2 brake pedals, one right and one left........and I'm sure I'm forgetting a few small items........like the shifter lock out in the steering column, Adding the tranny cooler, and so on.

If you want to keep the plow, then you really don't want to go over a 3" lift, other wise, you'll need to lower the undercarriage for the plow, as you'll loose the contact angle of the mold board, besides having the blade 'dig' into what ever your plowing on, and causing a lot of strain on the 'A' frame, and pushing the front of the truck up, loosing traction. Other wise, I don't know anything about lifts......... Plows........I know. The Myers 2 meter plow was a OEM plow for the MJ's, and a true OEM would have the bumper mounted to the outer side of the upper bracket, with the electric pump (E47) mounted just above the bumper And Welcome to CC :waving:

So........in the pouring rain today..........But, I had fun checking the fleet over :D I did check the lwb, the swb, and the '86 and................. Give 1986Comanche the Gold MJ badge :yes: And possum is correct too. The parking brake cables indeed enter the backing plate from the rear. All other models and years the cables enter from the front. Another reason to stay away from the '86 model year :doh: So, I'll make note of this for future reference :typing:

Correct.........you check the CPS leads, from the sensor, across A & B....... Here, I chopped this from Mr. Eric Giordano = "Basic RENIX / non-HO Engine Sensor Diagnostics" http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm .........Test#1 - Get a volt/ohm meter and set it to read 0 - 500 ohms. Unplug the cps and measure across the CPS connector's A & B leads. Your meter should show a CPS resistance of between 125 - 275 ohms. If it's out of that range by much; replace it. (* - Note: HO engines are measured from the B & C connectors and should have near zero ohms.).......... {Got to put credit when due, were it came from} :yes: I should have a few spare ECU's, Their not all the same - 4.0 - '87-88 = Manual #5409 - Auto #5406 4.0 - '89-90 = Manual #5429 - Auto #5428 That's the last 4 numbers on the label (IE: 5400-5428) I was just tossing out additional ideals for you, couldn't see you yanking out the harness, just check a couple things first. As the immortal Mr. JT would say............K.I.S.S.

AW4's from '87-'90 Renix, 21 spline output = Separate Transmission controller. AW4's from '91-'95, 23 spline output (92+) = Separate Transmission controller. '97+ Transmission wired into the ECU. Will not work with the Renix era. With the Correct tranny controller.........a '91- '95 will plug and play with the Renix era.

Grant - Check out this topic first, there's some info on the combo valve for you - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4917 Swapping in a XJ Porp valve is not a total solution. Using the OEM MJ combo valve is the correct answer, by plugging the lower front outlet, the front "nose" outlet is the main service line to the rear brakes. I've used the "T" from the rear, and connect both of the line together at the combo valve (can't find the picture now) near the master cyl. And........I'll be check out MJ's this morning for the parking brake lines..... ;) But........I think.........1986Comanche is going to be getting a Gold star on this one :D

Yea........with the wrong wire (ground wire) being hooked up to the starter relay, pull the ECU out and open the case, check for any burnt resistors on the circuit board. Also.......double check and add if needed a ground wire from the ECU mount plate to the engine ground stud (where the battery ground attaches) You really need to double check the Ohm's on the CPS, even if you get a cheap $3 volt meter just for this test. I know your :fs1: But, a few simple checks might be worth it before you tear out the wiring harness :D

Yea, I'm sure the parking brake cables enters the front of the backing plate on the SWB and LWB D35's :hmm: Guest I'm going to craw under a couple tomorrow at the shop to double check this.......and I just happen to have a '86 sitting some where over there......

:agree: With "re-plumbing" the rear and all the hard lines at once, and replacing the soft line at the same time. Long time ago......well a few years back, I would replace this line, then 2 weeks later replace another line, so, theory being, if one line starts leaking from rust, the other lines are not far behind for leaks, and it's better to replace all the brake lines once, and bleed the system, Once. I've been running the one MJ for 5-1/2 year with the rear proportioning valve removed, and I've have several panic stops, and only a couple of time did the rear tires lock up with no load in the bed. Double flaring steel brake line is not hard, but, I'll agree, if your not "comfortable" with doing it, then let a pro do the brake lines. Nothing worst that not having brakes when you really need them :roll:

If you have a D35 for a rear axle, the parking brake cables should enter the backing plate from the front, Unless.......you have something else for an axle :hmm: The only source for the rear height proportioning valve is here - viewtopic.php?f=4&t=19661 They have not been made since 1992, and parts are long gone for 're-building' the valve, most of us, just remove the valve and run one rear line to the rear brakes.