Wildman

So......Don...... You up for 5 or 6 of them to keep on hand, or sell on e-bay for couple thousand each :yes: Supply and demand..........there getting low on there stock.......so the price goes up :eek:

Well Said!!! :yes:

Yea, I seen this last night.......got this going over here- viewtopic.php?f=26&t=20882&view=unread#unread Paul......you should have no problem selling them brand new, never installed virgin tail lights for $300.........each :teehee: Whats even crazier......this time of the year, e-bay slows down some......but seeing these sell for that coin....... :shake:

:shake: Man........SW2 gets $200 for his "extra" set.......and now this....... I'm really starting to think about letting a couple sets go now :hmm: And I'll agree.......this set is not even a New set :doh:

I love sitting in the truck for about 30 minutes on Saturday morning and watch all of them going in with screwdrivers and lug wrenches... And the piles of tires and rims going out... Just cracks me up.... :rotf: Oh yea, ain't that the truth :yes: The crazy thing I see is, they only take 2 of the rims off a car.......and leave the other 2 there, breaking up the set :fs1: The yard I hit takes off all but one lug nut, so that makes it even easier for the crack heads to take the wheels off :shake: Until a few weeks ago, when I need a spindle off a E350 cube van........I had to take all 8 lugs off myself :headpop: Note.......I need a 18volt impact gun :hmm: Lenard..........I like your idea :yes: Only you should take a screwdriver and jamb in into the CD/cassette slot, and the tool will buy the thing, not knowing its fubared :rotfl2:

Man.........I found something on there site I was looking for years....... :doh: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_pa ... ucts_id=21 Not for me........I had a guy help me years ago that was left handed.........and he had a hard time with a screw driver........I did buy him some left hand drill bits, and that helped him alot :yes: Only problem is...........I need a one of them bearing for my Ford 351W, and that don't have one listed :(

:agree: got the same problem up here at the U-pull.........found that if we hit the yard on Fridays, the pickings are better.........come Saturday morning........and all the dash trims are busted out :hmm: unless, it's a stock radio........those survive :D Odd that the U-pull charges $35 for a CD player radio, and only $10 for a am/fm, I wouldn't think there be that much of a margin for the crack heads to make a profit :dunno: :rotf: Your right.......But.......That's the CITY. When you park you car, and after 5 minutes, you don't know what you'll find when you return :doh: Dirteatr717 is out on the Island, where it's much better ( :rotfl2: )

As of Monday 1/11, AmJay is busy jamming with that AC/DC tape :banana: and forgot to cancel this WTB add........ So, if one of you mod's would be so kind to remove this add :D

I got a '92 or '93 XJ full cluster sitting around. I'll ship it to you for $40. If you want pictures of it, just ask :D

No lifting lug on the tranny/T-case, just wrap a chain around it.......bolt/nut/washer connection, about mid point, where the tranny/T-case connect, and bring the chain up to the hook-chain on the hoist. With the weight of the tranny/T-case, it "off sets" the balance of the engine, and of course, wants to drop down, causing you to have a problem getting it past the front axle, and clearing the front cross member. A engine hoist will only go so high, plus, the lower you can keep the hoist arm, well......a little safer too ;) Oh, and the hood, if it's on, you want to get it propped up as high as you can, the OEM prop bar don't allow it to set high enough to clear the hoist arm.

Are you kidding? The chain would have been made out of duct tape. No......he would have used bungy cords to connect the two lawnmower pulleys, bolted to the hub caps, and used the duct tape to hold the hub caps on the wheels :D So......which show did he take the tire off the valiant, and wrapped something around the wheel, and started up the car........... :hmm: ........forgot what he was trying to do :doh:

And, if you pull the engine, tranny and transfer case as one unit, have plenty of room......the combo is 6 foot, 6 inchs long, and you need to be able to pull the hoist back, or at least roll the truck out of the way. Last one I pulled, I got the tranny jack under the transmission, after pulling the cross member, for rolling support, and had the truck wheels on the ground......once I cleared the front cross member, and had the hoist high enough, I pushed the truck out of the way :brows: Oh, and you might need to add a chain to the tranny to help balance it, even with the leveler.

Try this place for the cable set-up.......... http://www.Rockauto.com DORMAN Part # 912008 More Info {OE Solutions #55026030} $21.79

Now......if you been watching Red Green, he would have used Duct tape to hold the chain in place, and solve the problem with it popping off on turns :D OH, and on topic.......the CAD shift fork is cast aluminum :yes:

It's very common where the cable attaches to the rod "lever" for the lever to freeze up with rust. That where the one rivet is. Take a propane torch, and heat the rivet up some to burn out the rust, and then apply some lube, like white lithium grease to the rivet/lever, and that will free it up and allow the rods to retract and let the hood latch again. That's what also causes the cable to break, when the lever freezes up with rust. Stay away from the "universal" kit, it's not worth the trouble, get the OEM style cable, with the pull handle, and the mounting bracket and you'll save hours of work, plus get a better cable than what's offered in the kit.

And don't forget to check out Clarke welders :brows: I picked up a un-used (not in the box) 130EN last spring with a cart for $300 from a guy on CL and it was missing the regulator.......but, I used my old one. {that's how I got him down another $50} Stick with a 110v unit if you're doing alot of sheet metal, and .023 wire, with gas (Mig) and you'll have alot less problems with burn thru. You can still do 1/4"+ with a 110v unit, it's just a little slower, and you'll need a little extra cycle time. Plus, with a 110v unit, you can take it out of the garage, and not have to worry about finding a 30amp 220v outlet. Stick with a brand name welder, don't ever think about the junk that HF sells :no: If you sticked welded, Mig welding is about 60X easier :yes: Yea, when I learned welding........long time ago......Mig's weren't invented yet :roll: And it can be done.........very hard, but you can stick sheet metal. Oh, and cost..........figure around $400-500 for the welder, plus another $125 for the 40 cuft tank, plus wire, hood.......what not. I know my one neighbor bought a Hobart Kit about 2 years ago, and the whole set-up cost him $650.

For us "oldies" around here.........This was something that was discussed back in October '06's issue of JP Magazine.......... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2158&hilit=JP+magazine And......if you read the above topic, you'll see that we did have the editor reply to the letters we all sent at that time :D Other wise........I like that idea, to pick some weekend (when some of us have extra time) and send it a whole bunch of write ups, pictures, and info to JP, and hope they pack a whole issue on the die-hard MJ :yes:

:rotfl2: I don't make them........I just follow them.......the guy from Connecticut will enforce them for us :D

But............ In theory your right.......but, practical........Bad Idea :shake: First, your also allowing "fumes" from a garage into the house, with extending a whole house furnace into the garage area. Second, your breaking the "seal" of the house/garage, in other words.......the building inspector/fire marshal wouldn't be too happy to see a set-up like that. As Rob wrote, he just finished adding the 5/8" "fire-core" drywall to the garage. There is kind of reason that 'fire-core' drywall is used in a house/garage wall, and 4 feet onto the ceiling, just as a minimum for an attached garage. Oh, and the self closing class "C" door from the garage to the house. Go with the portable salamander, like you noted, you can move it around, and take it other places with you, as long as you can find a 110v outlet, you'll have heat with you :D

New York already has complete control over our personal life, and tax the crap out of us for keep us in "control"............ "bureaucratic control" is what NY thrives apond :teehee: You need to remember, alot of the "laws" NY implemented, the Fed's have use then on the basic of there penal code........IE: The Rockefeller drug laws........ :shake: So.........good luck in Florida, NY is already lost :doh:

Yea.......especially with the Renix system......... :rotfl2:

freakjeep............Congrats on your newest family member :D

Yea.......don't fall for the "Package" deals from parts stores and dealers on e-bay :shake: You can do a lot better shopping around, for better quality parts, and even up-grades than these "package" deals. One of my favorite shopping stops is........Rockauto.com, and even better when you hit the "Wholesalers" discontinued parts, and get brand names, like Moog for less than half the price of places like Advance auto parts :brows: Plus........must 'dealer' on e-bay whack you big time on the shipping and handling end :eek:

Here.........Mr. Eagle posted this up for all the "acronyms" ;) viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12815 Yea, they do look like after market tow hooks :hmm: As far as your rear end, more that likely, it should be a D35, if you have the "off road" package, it might have the limited slip rear end. General rule of thumb, for a 4.0..........Auto tranny = 3.55 gears........Manual tranny = 3.07 gears.

Yea, I kind of agree with that^ Rob, you didn't mention the NG at the beginning of this topic :hmm: You can get a salamander style heater that runs off NG, that would give you the portability, and most have a rubber hose for the feed. Just add a tap off one of your existing lines, and add a shut off valve to connect the hose when you need it. Another thought........check you local CL for used furnaces, some are replacements for high efficiency units, and the 'seller' lets them go real cheap, and there still good for a back up unit. Like this add here........http://buffalo.craigslist.org/tls/1539513679.html