Wildman

Yup.........now it all starts......... The MJ bug has bit you :eek: I'm sure the next time you stop in, you'll have 5-6 more MJ's :D Anywho........Nice score :thumbsup: Getting the first one that needs repair is one thing, getting the parts donor on the same day, that's just plane Great Luck :yes: Welcome to the CC and the madness :wavey: You'll find tons of info around here to get your MJ fixed up and on the road in no time :brows:

Wires that have a "foil" wrapping, and a bare wire are called "Shielded" wires, used in the electronic field. The bare wire is to be grounded, and the foil is just to protect the primary wires from interference. The reply you got from naxja is correct. Only one end of the bare wire needs to be grounded, the other end, like at the knock sensor, just wraps around the foil. In your case, the wire may have just came undone.

Yea, you tell him Wahoo :fs1: Guy leaves us for over a year, with not even a how-de once in a while, and then starts asking questions again :shake: Anyhow.............Chico.......... :waving:

Put your update in a new post.......same topic, just a new post........like this one, I almost missed it :oops: If you color/gauge match each wire, that should not be the source of your problem, now. Yea, that could be the turn signal socket are bad.......did you read what I said about the replacements??? If the turns on the dash are lit up, that means that a bulb is bad, or the sockets are bad. The easy way is to replace the bulbs first, and make sure there in the correct position in the socket, also, inspect the sockets, if they even look like there corroded, replace them and save yourself some headaches. One thing I forgot to mention.......the newer Ford sockets do not color match the MJ's wiring, and I forgot which one goes with each, but with a tester, you could figure it out :D

Well.......I hear back from the seller......and he had the right amount of zeros in the price...... But.....it's in the shop getting the ........"Alternator adjusted"....... :hmm: .....because it "shutters when it's started".......... :dunno: ......and might keep it after it comes out of the shop........ :( I'm sorry, I tried to keep a straight face typing that above, but......... :rotfl2: DJM/78......I think you missed my point here, this MJ is not in great condition, it's has a god awful paint job, it's got a '98 2.5 transplanted into it, with what other problems, Oh, and the 4wd don't work. I've paid any where's from $100 for a '87 2.5 4wd, to $3,500 for a mint '89 from down south, with most of the MJ around here in the $300 - $600 range, and they all need work, or the frames are shot. I've found that location, location, location drives the price for the MJ's, and whom wants them. Up here in the rust belt, the mileage is low, and the body's and frames are a mess, down south, the mileage is high, and the body's are mint. The one I drive, I bought it 4 years ago for $500, with a blown rear brake line, and 82K on the clock and went thru it completely from bumper to bumper and spend an additional $1,500 in it just in mechanical work, all parts, my time, but I've also jumped in it and did 760 mile trip in it in one day, in fact, one year ago Friday. It's that reliable, and that's why I did all the work to it, to make it reliable. My point.........if the guy is asking that much for this MJ, then it better be very reliable. I'll get off my now.

My dad will be 50 in Oct. and I thought he was getting old. :rotf: Now you done ruined my day......if not the whole week :shake: I'm older than your father :eek: Dang kids :fs1:

OK......I'm still :rotf: over this one......... http://buffalo.craigslist.org/cto/1588042365.html This is great......... "Has too many problems to worry about." And....... "Runs decently just quite unreliable at the moment." :doh: :shake: :rotfl2: Oh, and I'm waiting for a reply, to see if there just too many zeros in the price :teehee: Note........the price of my MJ's just went up :D

Not into the PA inspection thing........But, would that front bumper be any different than a truck with a plow on the front???? :hmm: I wouldn't think so........

Now that was cool :yes: Yup, back in the day.......the tow trucks use to carry cutting torches on the trucks :roll: That video shows why :eek:

:doh: Yea.......I forgot about the torque converter :oops:

You could go this route - http://www.teamcherokee.com/Locks_and_Keys/index.html Or from www.rockauto.com - STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DL22 More Info CHROME FINISH BLACK FINISH Part Image $8.67

This is from the '89 FSM - From the main harness side: -Heavy gauge (8ga?) red -Should be 14 ga RD = Fog lamp -Green/Black - Should be all Black? = Grounds -White - 16 ga WT = Low beams -Green - Light Green? 16ga LG = High beams -Brown - 18ga BN = Right turn signal -Gray/Black - 18ga GY/BK = Left turn signal -Dark Blue - 18ga BL = all markers Front wiring section: -White -Black -Dark Blue -Gray/Black -Green -Brown Just match up the main harness wire colors with the header (front) harness :brows: If you have fog lights, the main harness, or a separate wire from the fog lamp relay should be 14ga LG (Connector AA2) This will be a single connector. You can just splice each wire with a single connector......in fact, check this link out..... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20583&hilit=connectors I would use them in your case, I'm bad at soldering :headpop: and soldering is the best way to connect the wires. Oh, and while your in there, check the turn signal sockets, they go bad very easy, plus 20 years old, and look for a FORD replacement in the HELP section of your local Auto Parts Store. Yes, I would replace them while your doing all this "extra" work. And.........don't for get to double check the left front.....12ga BK ground on the inner fender (sheet metal)

Yes!, :thumbsup: , you can use your TCU, Should be. Is this a direct replacement for your AW4??? (Don't tell me this is a complete conversion :roll: ) The only thing you need to swap over is the speedometer quill from your old transfer case. There have been a couple write ups on that just a few weeks ago. Oh, and you need to change the shifter gate to the 242, but you could still use the 231 shifter, and the linkage will be the same.

If the dizzy is setting at #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, you should be good there :D It's really easy to get it off one tooth, as it drops in. Yea, stale gas is :no: But you understand that. Pull the sending unit out, and check out the tank/pump. And a new fuel filter to see what happens then ;) I'll agree with ratrapp to hook the temp sensor back up, this could cause idle problem even in the open loop, cold start. Oh......did you check the ballast resistor??? That will also cause the pump to run loud, or non running fuel pump.

Eliminator right detail..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT

Freakjeep's new image :D :teehee:

I'll choose door #3 If I remember right, the fittings are brass, and the master housing is cast alum, so......you can only torque so much before you have a much bigger problem :eek: You could also have a slight cross thread to the fittings. I know......do it twice.......but, using teflon tape and a good thread sealant should do the trick, I wouldn't use any lock-tite for this type of fitting. Yea, a lot of us don't know anything about that either :hmm: :teehee:

I agree......it's not like you going to be airing up and deflating the air bags 3-4 times a day.......are you :dunno: Once you set the bags in place, and pump them up to 10 pounds, you might not need any additional air until you add that huge load into the box, so the 'inconvenience of filling up each bag independently should not be a problem. Plus, you have the option of adding additional pressure to one side, for like when one of your BIG friends rides with you :D

First question.........You have fresh fuel??? Your not trying to start this with the fuel in the tank from last June......are you :eek: Can you do a pressure check at the test valve??? This would lead to checking the fuel tank if needed, if the sock strainer is plugged, or the soft fuel line in the tank is bad/unhooked. Or a bad fuel pump. You wrote it is noisy. Assuming that you have the distributor set correctly, and not 180* off, which is easy to do, or even one tooth off. Having the o2 sensor unhooked would only keep the engine running in open loop, it would still start. Having the temp sensor unhooked would not have any effect on the engine starting, it just adjusts the fuel/air mixture after the engine warms up. Check all that.......and let us know what you find ;)

Unplug and plug the CPS connector as quick check. Check the ballast resistor for the fuel pump, by-pass it first. If the above quick checks don't do it, time for :wrench:

You could go with the heated Urethane :brows: http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... elID=43957 You can't pull this in your garage for a half hour :hmm:

Your going to have to wait for warmer weather then....... You'll need to pull the whole slider out, because the glass is set in the frame with a U-gasket, and the frame is then put together and the corners pinched. Glue......what glue :dunno: You talking about the urethane sealant??? You can get some quick set that will set-up in 20 minutes, and cure in 45 minutes for setting the slider unit back in.

That's how I learned about air shocks with my '73 El camino, and Why it had separate fill valves :D A check valve wouldn't work, because you would not be able to "deflate" the bags, But, a peacock would work, even for just one line, it would shut off the air supply between the two :brows:

Read your Tech post :D

I'm not really sure what part your asking for :hmm: Are you talking about the back end of the BA 10??? 4wd?? Yea, even I don't have a lot of them around. I have some AW4's if you want :D 2wd and 4wd :brows: When you coming thru this part of the world???