Wildman

OK.......so then you don't think you should even pull one plug to see what it's tell you on the running condition of the engine :hmm: Is this also Assuming that the wire have 1000 miles on them, and nothing would be wrong with them either :hmm: Well......good luck on you problem solving. Just keep throwing new parts on it, I'm sure some day you'll get it running again :D

Well......you have 2 topic going on this same subject :D And in the other one........Mr. Aemsee mentioned the EGR valve, and he know 50+X's what I know, so there's 2 votes for the EGR. Disconnect it and see what happens. I ask about the plugs, because you should be only running Champions, nothing else, and with it spitting like it is when you add gas, the wrong plugs will mis-fire, causing about what your movie is showing :D

I read it :D PM MJeff about that AX-15 :yes: If not, call me tomorrow about what you found out on shipping.

I would've completely agreed with you... until today. I had to register the 99 XJ with the DMV today. Lady behind the counter had some stupid questions.... and this whole conversation happened while she was holding the title. You would think, that someone who worked with the DMV, would have known the difference. And, you'd think, somewhere in that computer, it would be known that in 99, neither the Commander or Compass existed. :nuts: So, which sister did you get at the counter.......Patty or Selma????? http://www.bing.com/videos/watch/video/ ... mv/5m0zw93

Nice video :popcorn: OK.......I'm not real up on the 2.5.........so.....Here's the Renix fuel tech manual if you need - http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... manual.pdf Just for S&G, what are you running for plugs??? Have you pulled a plug to see what it looks like when it runs like that??? wet with gas, dry, running hot??? I'm tossing that out, cause, it idles kind of rough, when you give it gas, it chokes right out. I know, I've been reading your posts, and what you have done. Also..........did you check the EGR valve??? Unplug the vacuum line to the EGR, and plug the rubber line, and see how it runs. I know on a 4.0, if the EGR is shot, it will choke the engine right out, even in idle :eek:

And Corrodes from rock salt too :eek: If you have a gas set-up, you can gas weld alum using Aladdin 3-in-1 rods :D I just had to make up a small alum box today for a door control :brows:

:agree: With runner6 A mention of the XJ along the lines with the MJ, The Cherokee is a much more know model, and to compare the similarities would be a true fact. Good luck on your paper/speech, and lets us see a copy when your done :D

Is that where Pete spends all them "Administrator out to lunch" trips :hmm: :clapping:

Is this what your looking for :hmm: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT :teehee:

CW.......your second post....... :rotf: I got to tell this story......... Back in collage, 1977, there was this one guy, :smart: ya know........He had the '74, orange, just like your second post :teehee: , had the whopping 304 in it, with the 4 speed. So, one day before the end of class.......some guys wanted pay-back, so they jack up the rear of the car, and put some blocks under the axle, just enough to put the tires, wide 60's of course, about 1/2" off the ground :teehee: Now the guy, and his roommate (who was in on it) head out to the parking lot, and the roommate does the old.......Hey, look over there.......they get in the car........start it.......puts it in gear.........and nothing :eek: Got to remember, there's a crowd of about 50 guys standing around this parking lot watching. So, we see the reverse light go on, and RRRrrrrrr.......nothing. Shift again.......RRRRRRRrrrrrrrr.........nothing........little gear grinding KKkkkkk.....RRRRRRRRrrrrrrr.....still nothing. The roommate is play this up with the old :dunno: The guy looks up, see 50 guys laughing there butts off, opens the door, leans out and looks under the car, and sees the blocks....... Classic :rotfl2: Funny thing.......the :smart: got knock down a couple notches......His hot '74 Gremlin wasn't so hot any more.......and 33 years latter, it kills me to tell this story :rotf: Man.......it was tough :typing: this story out :jump:

Perfect Spring project for you :D http://buffalo.craigslist.org/cto/1612521762.html

A new windshield installed around here is $160-$170. Don't know about the CA prices......but might be worth calling a glass shop and pricing it :dunno: And, the one glass shop I know........If I say it's cracked, he'll agree, and let the insurance pay for it, but like my commercial policy........I need to pay the first $100 on it anyways :fs1:

Yep.......never thought about the windshield seal :headpop: Once you pull the molding off, you'll be able to see if the urethane is real lean in there, and some times you'll see the edge of the windshield turn cloudy white, that's were the water is working it way into the plastic laminate sheet. Just don't glob the urethane in there, and also, clean it real good before you add any new sealant, like wash it out, and then wipe it down with some paint thinner, and let it evaporate before you add the new sealant. Man, I hope this solve your water problem........I mean your only up to 9 pages on this :roll: We need the cyber space for other things :razz: :teehee:

Ya know.........I've been following your water woes for a long time, never thinking it could be the windshield leaking :doh: Very common.........if the windshield was not installed properly. To pull the metal molding off, you'll need one of these tools, you should be able to pick up one at an auto parts store. http://www.crlaurence.com/productimages ... _14133.gif A little better tool for this would be this one (the one I have :D ) http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... elID=21151 You work the tool under the molding to "un-hook" the plastic clips......that look like this- http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... delID=3780 If you do this right.......you can re-use the clips to re-attach the metal molding ;) I would use urethane sealant, which is what is used for setting the windshield in the first place, and you can get this at an auto parts store - http://www.crlaurence.com/crlapps/showl ... elID=19838 That would be better than silicone sealant :brows: And make sure you get it as a "Primer-less" type. Run a good bead across the top of the windshield/body and then down the sides. Don't glob it on, or all over, it will ooze out in time, and you'll have trouble getting the molding back on, just a nice clean bead, and tool it if you need to. Now......this has got to fix your problem :headpop:

I haven't, but I do have some Barry White on my home computer. Thanks for the suggestion. :hmm: Somehow............I don't think Geonovast was talking about your truck :doh: :teehee:

I should have a BA/10 4wd loose. I also have 2 each 242's that are 23 spline if you want to go that route :dunno: I can get it half way to you to Ellicotville (Great Valley) it that helps at all. But, not until the weekend.

Yea, I kind of figured that..........but didn't want to say anything :roll: :teehee:

If the price is right.............Road Trip :banana:

True. But, some members don't have P-N-P near by, or the tools to remove it at the yard, to get a used, scratched glass, broken latch slider. Several members opp'ed to get a Brand New unit, and install it trouble free :D Plus, the 4 lite slider has a larger opening than the 3 lite OEM unit.

Hopefully your NEW '86 has the 2.5 :D To answer the brake question........Most of us have removed the rear proportioning valve, and the extra brake line, and went with just one brake line, and made the mod at the front disputation valve. More reading materials Here Also........The drum 'self-adjusters' are junk, and don't work all that well, a rule of thumb is when you change the oil, you manually adjust the rear shoes. This will make a hugh difference on the braking power. The B-pillars lights were just covered last week - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... =2&t=21565 Do expect some work on your New MJ.......it is 24 years old ya know :roll:

CRL 4 piece replacements are $150 shipped to your door, including 2 tubes of urethane sealant :D Click Here

The fuel sending unit is mounted on the side of the sender unit, next to the pump, in the tank. See picture - It sounds like the resistor spring in the sending unit went bad on your, the problem is, there are no parts available for replacement :( I believe that Mr. Hornbrod has a repair process for this, if he has, he might be kind enough to post it here for you :D

Very nice looking Comanche, MercComet :thumbsup: Diesel........ :drool: But, I have to ask........Is the license plate custom ordered :hmm: :teehee:

Actuality.......The buy it now price is really good :D I suggest you do some reading up on this subject, before you call it a "crazy price" Here's some reading materials for you - http://www.grandwagoneer.com/ *and if you look at the guy in the picture.........You don't haggle price with him :eek: * http://www.wagonmaster.com/ *I'm thinking the seller on e-bay based his price from that site* http://autos.aol.com/used-list/make1-Je ... 1-Wagoneer *And that's the 'cheap' site for prices* :brows: