Wildman

You looking for a SWB or LWB roll bar?? PM me, I'll give you some info on a guy up here selling one. *not me selling* http://buffalo.craigslist.org/pts/1622213120.html And no, it's not off a '97 :nuts: And........I have a Full brush guard, OEM BNIB we might deal on :brows:

Welcome Waytec :wavey: If you have not found your way over to the DIY project write ups, you'll find alot of info over there, like - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7659

dasbulliwagen mentioned it in his post.........The caliper soft lines. After years the rubber lines break down, and collapse internally and act like a check valve, when you hit the pedal, your applying pressure, but then with the brake pedal off, it's just free flowing, and if the lines are old and fluid soaked, they will not let the fluid flow back to the master, causing the caliper to be "pressurized" causing drag, and eating up your pads very quickly. Normally you can feel the line and feel a bubble in the rubber, or if the lines are cracked/checked or wet looking........time for a new set. You can bleed the brakes a 100 times, if the soft lines are shot, your not gaining anything :roll:

If your asking about the line nuts, they should be 3/8" X 3/16" hollow nuts (Shorts)

Welcome to the CC Steve :wavey: And don't let that '87 XJ get away, that's the perfect donor for you MJ conversion :brows: And when your ready for the swap, you'll find all the info and help around here too :yes:

:eek: I've seen that before :hmm: And that looks like the house down the street from me :dunno: Here's the rest of the pictures if anyone wants to :drool: over it...... Sure which I would have gotten more/better pictures of it at the time. But, I have not seen it around town too much the past year, only a couple times :(

And one back at ya :D

:agree: with the brake lines If you want to redo the fuel lines, I would only do the lines around the filter / cross member area, and stay away from the quick-connect fitting. The fuel lines have a bubble flair for the soft line to slip over and get worm clamped on, even if you just use some soft fuel line, your getting rid of the rusted steel lines ;) Off the top of my head, the supply line should be 3/8" and return lines 5/16".

:eek: From the pictures........looks like you made it home.......one way or the other :roll: So........much other damage other than the unit bearing, and rotor.......like did you grind the yoke down to a hugh flat spot :hmm: I'll agree, you walked away from it upright :thumbsup: And not like some others :(

You sure it's not a April Fool's joke :hmm: Yea, your lucky they gave you notice, alot of guys I know find out Friday morning that they don't need to show up on Monday or any day after that :eek: Good luck on your job search ;)

Most "closed" JY have that policy that No one enters the yard, or enters the yard unescorted. The main reason, besides safety, is theft :eek: If they let you back there, and your pulling ECU's and PCM's off vehicles, and "hiding" them, first they lose that inventory, and lots of $$$. I'm not saying you would do this, but the thousands of others before you that ripped off the yard, and they set their policy. I have one "closed" yard, that I can pull my MJ right in the back, next to the vehicles I want to pull parts off, and load up the bed, and then have them check it on the way out, the reason is.......I've been dealing with the yard for 20+ years, and, well, they trust me :roll: I've also bought alot of parts off them, that they have pulled, and some items, it's easier to let them pull, because they bring the vehicle up to the shop on a front end loader, and pull the hot wrench out. They don't allow any torches or jack in the yard. It is wrong for them to tell you to show up, and then turn you down because they were short handed that day :no: That might be one yard to avoid in the future, unless it's the only yard near you :dunno: If you start dealing with that yard often enough, they will get to know you, and trust you, and you'll soon be walking the yard, finding what you need, and saving then the trouble of pulling off little parts that they can't afford to pull. One reason I like the P-n-P is you can pull off the little odds and ends yourself, that have no value to the yard itself, and you know it's what you need, like visor clips, or hood rod clips, and they charge you $1 for a handful of plastic parts that they don't even know are worth there weight in gold to us :yes: Now, back to the parts your looking for.........Will Red do you??? I got a MJ half tore apart, and I'm sure the 2 oblong plugs your looking for are still intact. I'm heading over soon, and will pull them, drop me a PM tonight with your shipping info :D

glundblad - Super great job on the restoration of your "original owner" Chief :thumbsup: Your MJ couldn't have been a better MJOTM example :yes: And some great stories to go along with it. Excellent Job, Man :clapping:

yup, been thinking about that too. and jtdesigns bogged down with school i guess. :dunno: JT calls me once in a while, Yes, he had a tough semester, and he moved further out in the boonies and the only internet he could get was dial up $$$ :ack: So, he just opp'ed out for the cell phone, and with school and working, he'll get caught up and drop back in here someday :D

i was glad to see it come down to OT. amazing game. sad to see USA lose, but also glad to see Canada when on the home ice. 2 X's that :yes: I'm also glad O' Canada won that game, heck, it's your game to begin with :D Even thought Brian Miller (Buffalo Saber) is one of the best goalies in the league :roll:

Welcome to the CC Zack :wavey: I'm sure you'll become quite busy from all our orders for body panels :yes: We all have been searching for years for the right source and your it

It's really not too complicated to swap in a XJ fuse panel/interior harness in place of the MJ's. The only real problem you'll encounter is the whip to the rear, and with a little tracing and detective work, it will be solved ;) Here's some reference topics for you to ponder - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20922&hilit=xj+wire+harness And here's the one on the rear light that mfpdm put together - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19695&hilit=xj+wire+harness What you'll want to check is if the engine bay side of the fuse block is still in good shape, if in dough, then the XJ's engine harness should be a direct replacement. Oh, one question.........is the MJ and XJ still in the same era????? like '87 - '90 Renix era??

^ Yea, and spend some of that money earned for repairs and wear and tear too :yes:

Here's my '89 earning it's keep - Making piles of snow so Mr. Aemsee can haul it back to his yard :teehee:

Electronic Control Unit = Computer Controls spark (on/off), timing, and injector pulses, from an array of sensors. You wrote that your looking at a 1990, so that would be the "older" system, which is referred to as the "Renix" electrical system (1987-1990) on the 4.0 engine. Chrysler took over in '88, started full ownership of Jeep in '89 and started making Chrysler changes in 1991 with the ECU and labeled it the HO 4.0 engine. Most of the mechanical parts are interchangeable, with the XJ (Cherokee) right up to 1996, with a few small items to keep an eye on.

I used my search finger........... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13074&hilit=mj+at+salt+flats Somewhat related...... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12714&hilit=mj+at+salt+flats Pete's summer vacation....... viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18100&p=184023&hilit=mj+at+salt+flats#p184023 That enough for you :dunno:

Southern truck.........most seam to run high mileage, could be the reason the engine was replaced :hmm: Most of the southern truck have the paint bleed out, unless it has been repainted. Clear coat pealing is very common to the MJ's, it was a factory mistake. Yes, rust is a hugh factor on the value of the MJ. A minor fender bender on the front could be why it has a chrome grill and painted bumpers :dunno: Again.........We need pictures :D A couple pictures and some info go along ways around here :yes:

I'm only replying cause this makes 2400 posts for me :D :banana: That wouldn't work on a Renix :teehee: With the Renix system, there is NO stored codes in the ECU, ever start is a fresh boot, No memory is stored in the ECU. Sounds like a blown out brake booster :eek: Is the vacuum line connected and not leaking??? If you have a major vacuum leak, like the brake booster, your mileage will go right down with a leak like that. If you hit hard, alot of things could be knocked loose, and your finding that out now. The only way to find the rough idle is to go thru and check out every thing, from fuel pressure to spark on each plug, you could have something as simple as a cracked distribute cap causing misfire, bad wire, or cracked plug. Start going thru everything and see what you can find.

Yea, you said it..........Practice :eek: Really couldn't tell you how to do this and that, you'll see the alum start to flow, and that's the time to stick the rod in to fill and fuse the alum together. Yes, the aluminum has a much lower melting point over steel. Most of what I welded was on 1/8" and 3/16" stock, using a #2 tip, 5 and 5 on the O/A.

Depends on what area your in :dunno: North east, not a real bad price........down south......a little high, out in CA, cheap, and if in Minnesota, way too much :eek: If you can post what area your in, and maybe some pictures when you check it out, we'll give you a little better idea what's it worth. Oh, and one thing to remember, if it's local to you, that's worth something, cause of travel to go pick it up ;) Cab vent, really easy fix, any dent's in the B-pillar, that can be knocked out from the inside. Bucket seats and the full console, yea, that's a good upgrade, the replaced engine, get the story on that, like does the truck have 2 million miles on it, or what :dunno: The 4.0 has a history of getting 300K no problem with PM.

:agree: :yes: