Wildman

OH yea, back to the original condition, Plus :D It's all there, just the interior is pulled out, and the front clip and fenders are off. He had the box bolted back on, and the doors "screwed" on for the ride, otherwise, all the parts are in the cab, or the back of the van. All OEM - bucket seats, air, tilt wheel, cruse, off road package, rear slider and no Rust at all :drool:

Went on a 1400 mile round trip to fulfill my obsession and quest to fill in the 1991 MJ model year in my full scale model collection :D And dragged home a perfect R U S T free specimen for the '91 slot :banana: Now, I only need the 1992 model year, and my quest will be filled :roll: I think I need a new hobby :nuts:

Yea, I made it home last night....late.........didn't see any ice storm on my way thru, but then again, I didn't hit the Pittsburgh area until about 3:30pm, but, I heard about it :eek: All I seen was rain all the way home...........12 hours of rain........I think I wore out the windshield wipers on the van :headpop: Either way.........I don't drive on ice.......learn that many years ago.........taking a full size van down a 6 foot drop, and still landing on all four wheels........right side up too :D When the roads get icy, I park it. Don't matter what you have, getting going is not the problem, it's getting the dang thing stopped that really matters :eek: I didn't see that car hauler wreck, but I did pass a 4-5 car wreck south bound on Rt 70, just north of Rt 270. Kind of interesting when you pass a pile up, and you see the cutting torches sitting in the middle of the road :roll: Glad you made it thru the ice storm Jeff, I guest I just got going too late, which is good, and gladly missed it all ;)

:eek: So.......alot goes on when you turn the key :eek: Thanks for the info........I know down the road, I'll reference this :thumbsup: We'll see how Lotgod makes out over the next couple days. And........see, if I can make a 'house' call :D It's so much easier to see, and hear something in person, than just seeing a screen and typing :roll:

True. Of course........I wouldn't want to be the one to tell the dealer that it might have a D44 :rotfl2:

So.......ah........Pete.......You posting this up to show us your next MJ purchase :D Look how nice and rust free that thing looks :bowdown: I bet you can take the shock bolts off with a pair of needle nose pliers :yes:

Check your grounds. Make sure the body to engine strap is in good shape, any bright green color at all, replace it. Check the battery to engine block ground, that is also where the ECU is grounded with a 14ga wire, and double check that the ECU mounting plate is grounded. I know this does not sound like a fuel problem solution, but......the ECU controls the injector pulse, and of course spark, timing. When you were spraying the gumout down the TB, was the key turned to run the starter?? Or did you turn the key back to the "on" position, and it still ran??? I'm thinking there just might be a problem with the ignition switch :hmm: if the grounds check out.

Yes, some of us have been typing out ideas for what.........2 weeks now :hmm: I missed the boat on the "no fuel in the rail" part :oops: So......your getting fuel, just no spark, and Yes, I'll agree, you will not get the injectors to pulse with out a spark, the ECU will control that. $500MJ make a good point about the ignition module........That's about the only thing you'd haven't changed out.......correct, and the CamPS. You have or have not, changed the wiring harness back to the old one??? As I sent you the PM........I'll try to make it over for that stake dinner.......ah, er.....stop by on my way back, to give you a hand, and I'll bring all my books along :D OH, and some spare parts.

Some times, 'we' post responses, links, with the assumption that your asking for a solution, with a understanding where to look. Your picture helped narrowed the search down for you :D You mentioned that "all the cables are loose down there" and plan on replacing them. The TV cable is a real tough replacement, you need to pull the tranny pan to replace that, if you can find one. The shifter cable, has to be some what loose, as it "flexes" as you shift. It kind of falls under the "if it's not broke" syndrome. :yes:

5 years of sitting...... :hmm: I would think condensation took it's tole on it :( I know parts are hard to get way up in the far north.......but, it might be time for a complete exhaust system. If your beyond the sniffer test, then just delete the cat, and run a muffler, But.......your gas mileage will suffer some.

If I'm reading that correct..........your 2wd transmission Will Not bolt up to a transfer case. It not just as simple to remove the tail shaft housing, the shaft it's self will not work, to long. You'll need to replace the AW4 with a 4wd transmission. Also.......when your looking for transfer cases, from '87 - '90 will be a 21 spline shaft, and '91-'95 will have 23 spline. Your more likely to find a 23 spline case, just more of them out there. Your best looking for the complete combination of the AW4 and 242, or 231(part time) Your existing 2wd drive shaft will work, as Pete said, just have it cut down, and re-balanced.

I like them cowl mounted spot lights :brows: What are them yellow/red "details" on the sides :hmm: OH.......and........"Tow package"........Good chance of a D44 and 5 leaf springs on the back end :D Just too bad it at a Dealer :shake:

If you have only 3 relays, it would be the middle one for the fuel pump.

And.......That White "button" on top of the cable, is what you push to make the adjustment, just follow the instructions in the link provided :D

I'll agree, but what I was getting at........way back on another topic from Lotgod, he's also not getting any pressure on the fuel rail........correct??? That's what has me stumped. I posted the links from Eric Giordano, which I do think Lotgod did do the test on the CamPS. The problem with roll starting this MJ is, if it's not getting any fuel at the rail, or the injectors for that mater......and no spark what so ever, just what is roll starting going to do???? Maybe what you experienced with your MJ, push starting it just bypassed a bad battery cable, weak battery, or bad starter relay :dunno: If the CPS or the CamPS is bad.........you can push start this for 100 miles, it still will not start.

:eek: :eek: :eek: Your kidding........right?? It moves?? :hmm: About time........I've been waiting for you to post this for the past 2 months :yes: :banana: Cherokess's MJ is rolling again :clapping: When do I get a ride in it????? :D :needpics:

PM sent with the info. The spark, yea, might be a brand new CPS. The not getting fuel.........has me stumped :hmm: Unless........you have more than one major problem there. Bad right hand shock tower :hmm: You checked the fuseable links there, correct? Did you ever check the relays on the shock tower, for the fuel pump......the 2nd one from the front? Did you try to jump the fuel pump yet? I'm thinking........get fuel to the rail first, then work on the spark issue.

Ozzy............Congrats on your advancement :banana: :smart:

I'd say........Paint the new tank, but use this product - http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?fr ... d=55&SBL=1 It's resistant to gas :brows: Or, go full out with this product - http://www.por15.com/SPECIAL-Sealer-Met ... tinfo/S7Q/

:hmm: I'd vote for #2 Because of this.......... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17900&hilit=no+start+xj Your getting an Ohm's reading on the CPS, right :hmm: But........your still not getting fuel, correct???? Did you pull out a plug to check if it wet?? Want me to stop on my way by next week??? Too many questions for you???

Here's how to adjust the TV cable........really easy to do to :D http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Tra ... ostics.htm

There is no real adjustment to the Hydraulic clutch system. You could bleed the slave cyl, and see if that helps any. Does the clutch act like it's "chattering" when you start off from a dead stop?? With even 85K, and 22 years on the OEM clutch.........Yea, it might be time for a new clutch :( If you do a lot of stop and go driving, that's hard on a clutch, if you have 185K on the clock, with a lot of highway mileage, that would equal about the same service life. With a lot of stop and go driving, the clutch disk can become "glazed" and that will act like it's slipping, also, the pressure plate can become weaken.

I hope your job is not in jeopardy for not keeping your boss's MJ filled up with gas :eek: :shake: :teehee:

:agree: *look back one post* Rob, keep the MJ of the month locked, comments in a separate topic......like this one, in the long run.......12 months, it will be a cleaner, one only, sticky. Now........my comments......... :D Mr. Hornbrod - As the First MJ of the month entry/winner....... Couldn't happen to a better person, and their fine example of a Jeep Comanche :clapping: With all the time, expertise and advice that Mr. Hornbrod post here, plus now being a moderator on this board (with the power to lock any of us out :eek: ) I'm glad that we have you aboard, and glad to know you, and share our little back channel talks ;) Congrats :thumbsup: and........in the 3th or 4th picture, there seams to be a fly running around on your front chrome bumper :hmm: Keep up the bright.......ah, er, good work :cheers:

I clicked on the classifieds tonight and got a surprise :eek: took me a minute to figure out where I was :hmm: But........I like it :D Really does clean things up, much more "organized looking" Nice work Pete :thumbsup: