Wildman

:agree: Just to try to get your MJ fired up, I'd think a automatic ECU (#5428) should work :hmm: The auto ECU gets input thru the TCU, the NSS is not there, and should not hamper the engine starting, and the only other thing that would make a big difference is the brake switch, tied into the TCU to 'slow down' the tranny. Give it a try and see where it gets you :D It's not like your going to be putting a couple hundred thousand miles on it.......are you???

If............the windshield was set properly, it should not "squeak" :hmm: It's set in a bed of urethane sealant. But.........whom ever installed it, might have let it slide down and let the glass set on one of the molding clip tabs. First, pull off the glass molding, and take a close look at the bottom edge, if the glass is resting on one of the steel tabs, the only way to "fix" it would be to pull the windshield and re-set it. Unless you want to take a chance and try to bend the tab away from the glass, or slide a piece of plastic between the glass and tab :dunno:

So........did you get the dizzy set where #1 is sitting at 6 0'clock??? Yea, you have a few more things to go over now, the important thing is.......It started :D Running rough could be a vacuum leak, that's the first place to start. Plus check if the lines are cracked or checked at the fittings. Check out the MAP too.

:hmm: You sure your not confusing basic with marriage :hmm: freakjeep93 - Good luck on your adventure :thumbsup:

Naw..........Don't say that Mr. Don I'm still kind of unknown with the 2.5 :hmm: The thing you really need to remember is......... '91+ = HO = Chrome :D But, I agree with you, a lot of problems can be caused by a bad ECU, or a bad ground from the ECU. Causing a non firing engine. With the back fire that Shandley had, that's a good sign. He just needs to get the timing issue straighten out. But, like a lot of other 'newer' posters, he didn't provide the important information in the beginning, like what he has done with the engine, and the fact, that it has sat for the past 3 years.........all that adds up to other problems.

Happy Thanksgiving :D And if you get really bored today........My favorite :D :smart: Well Said!!!! :clapping:

No, you didn't. :doh: Lets see........does that mean the steering wheel is on the right side????? Oh, that's something else, never mind. OK, for the folk's following........he had a backfire!!!! That's a good sign :banana: Fuel & spark. Just not in the right order. So, he's going to re-set the distributor and see what that does.

Renix is Renix. aerocorey is correct, the ECU don't store any codes, every start is a fresh start, and the ECU uses the input feed from the sensors to make the adjustments for fuel, ignition timing, what not. There is no "CEL" on the Renix. Shandley..........Don't run off, I'm doing your PM reply, for the 2nd time (hit the wrong button :fs1: ) What your showing is the "typical" dash insert, most of the "items" are not used in the MJ. And the ones you high lighted are correct for a manual, but that red triangle I've never see :hmm:

Yes, I received and responded to the PM :D :hmm: Me think Mr. Hornbrod knows that I just drag home a '88, 2.5, 5 speed a couple weeks ago (only my 2nd 2.5) And this one just happens to be for parts :roll: Yea, the day job is slowing up, so......I have time to get some parts together, and I could send you a ECU from the '88 for you to try out. But, I don't think that's your problem. So, you say it's cutting out (the starter stops) after 3-4 seconds of cranking..........Bad battery cables!!! Take the plastic loom off the cables and check them, if you see any corrosion, replace them, there a $20 item for both cables. I've read all the other items you changed, and no mention of the cables, or did I miss that one :hmm: As noted above, check the grounds, replace the body to engine ground strap, if you see any green color at all. The Renix is set up to run on the +ground system, in other words, all the switches, relays and such have power to them, and the contacts are open or closed thru the negative ground system, so........Grounds are very important. Also, once you find your ECU (seen the other post) make sure the mounting plate is grounded, if in doubt, add an additional ground from the plate, to the engine stud, where the battery ground is connected (that's also where the original ground wire is located) The PM I responded to, I also mentioned that the 2.5 is notorious for the timing chain to slip, because of a plastic guide at the chain, wears out, and can cause the timing to be off, which kind of sounds like your original problem :hmm: Post up the mileage on this MJ. I'll let you respond to all this before we go on ;)

Man........now you lost about $10,000 in the value of your MJ :doh: You know, once you brake that 100K mark, the value just drops like a lead balloon :shake: :teehee: But........congrats, on the milestone anyway.

There are several articles on this subject over in the DIY section of the CC store, Like this one- viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12206 And this has just been discussed - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19670&hilit=AW4+swap viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19670&hilit=aw4+swap There are more, if you search for AW4 swaps, and even transfer case swaps. Very do-able, but many "small" items need to be addressed.

That link you posted is for a "Flex-plate" = Automatic tranny. What you need is a "Fly-wheel" = Manual tranny. You'll also need a pilot bearing for the BA-10, the AX -15 bearing is slightly different. Hard to tell if the 'resurfaced' flywheel will show signs right away, I've read where the clutch disk didn't engage, or slipped really bad at first, and worst latter, to 'never had a problem' :dunno: Your really at the mercy of others when work is done on a vehicle, either the work will be done in a professorial, knowable manner, or it will be band-aided and half passed :eek: Most of the MJ's I've worked on, I can tell right away if something was band-aided........like brake lines replace with compression fitting, and 3-4 pieces in one line........ :shake:

Man.........I seen this topic heading, and I was thinking something else :doh: Like this.........http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/ Other wise........I like your idea of the lights under the top bar :brows:

:agree: To my understanding the only difference between the two is that one is made by American Motors Corp.(AMC) up to a certain year and the (J) is made by Jeep. I know that the AMC that is in my 87 MJ is "not" full time. The 231-J that I have is out of a 91 XJ. :thumbsup: AMC nor Jeep never made the 231 or 242 transfer case, all the X-cases were made by New Process (NP) if you look at the stamp tag it will read 231 J, with New Process on the top of the tag - They were built in Syracuse, NY. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm NP was later taken over by New Venture Gear Company. Like the D35 axle........AMC nor Jeep made them, all were made by the Dana Company, and if you look at the casting stamp, you'll see 35 C stamped in them, the C does not mean C-clip, but for "Custom"

That plastic shield you see is really bad for the gas tanks, road grit, sand, dirt, and water sit inside the shield and just eat the tanks away, Do not put it back on if you get a new tank, you don't really need it. I like this place (and it's in PA too :D ) http://raybuck.com/ They also sell the straps if you need. Just use some rubber compound material between the straps and the tank, I use strips of ice and water shield :brows: The bolts for the straps can be made up from some 3/8" carriage bolts if you need new ones.

So.......you all thinking.........this is close to the last one....... :hmm: I would never want to own the last one.............just think of all the parts they ran out of and just push it out the door :eek: :teehee:

The CamPS is a quick test, you really don't need to remove anything. Here......if I didn't link it - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... Stator.htm A 'quick' check of the fusible links is just pull on them........if then pull apart......you know there no good..........other wise, still do a continuity test. Well.......you took the starter relay out of the equation :thumbsup:

OK........I re-read everything that was posted so far.......... The only difference you will find between the '89 harness and the '88 harness is the C101 connector, that was eliminated in '89-90. That's the connector that comes from the ECU to the engine (Injector) harness. I'm sitting here reading the '88 electrical troubleshooting manual for the MJ :idea: What I do see is...........3 Fusible Links that come off the starter relay (near the right shock tower) If some one were to put a ground wire on the relay post, by mistake........Then the fusible links should be tested, and maybe possibly even replace the starter relay. The starter relay is not just for closing a circuit for the starter solenoid, it also sends a open signal to the shock tower. The 3 fusible links are the relays on the shock tower, B+ Latch, Fuel Pump, O2 pre-heater. I'd start there first, checking the fusible links, and the relays. I tossed out the CamPS this morning, thinking you don't have spark, but then you reminded me that you also don't have fuel :hmm:

If you can't get the caliper piston to bottom out, did you take the cap off the master cyl and remove some brake fluid???? The bleeder just might be "rust welded" to the caliper, some times........a little heat from a propane torch will help :brows: Bleeder screws are replaceable.

Yes........I remember the "problems" you had getting the harness............ :roll: Isn't that a sticky now :hmm: OK.......what did the donor harness come out of........an XJ??? I'm just tossing out ideas to you, the problem is...........you are here (X), and I'm over here(X) Yes, if you have a MJ near by, that you can "borrow" then you can do the ole track down each connector that is used, or not used, as you know, the harnesses come with many options that are either used on your MJ, or not, IE: cruse control....... Ask Cherokee how many times he's swung over to check out this and that, and one time when I stopped at his place, 5 minutes latter, he had my hood open, checking the routing of this and that. I toss that CamPS out, that's another senor that can cause "no spark"

Yea, I'm one with a plow :D But, I have not gone with the air bags.........yet........I've installed spacers in the front coils, and ran the past 2 years like that. This year, when I get time :roll: I'm going with the V8 WJ coils to see it that makes a difference. I'll let you know after next weekend.......got to get the MJ ready for the snow......just no time the past 3 months :fs1: I don't know if the air bags will work with 3" lift coils :hmm: But, I'm sure you'll find a way to make them work :D To install the air bags, you need to take the isolators out. If your re-gearing to 3.55's, what tranny are you running??? This MJ has the BA10, 3.07's and I can not push with 4 hi, I need to use low for pushing. The other MJ I was plowing with had a AW4, 3.55's, and had no problems pushing in 4 hi. One note on plowing..........the smaller the tires, the better. Big, wide tires run like $#!& in the snow, they ride on top of the snow, and you lose traction, or no traction at all. Smaller, stock, 235/75R15's should be the biggest tire to run, this is what I've used the past 5-6 years, and never had a problem with pushing 2 feet of snow :brows: That link to the Air lift 1000 is a good price, Air lift in one of the only company's that make the coil air bag kits, the other is Firestone.

This was just covered last week - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19670&hilit=AW4 Little reading there and you'll see which year will swap right in ;)

Number 2's tool picture has always worked around here :yes: Yes, there is an internal spring clip inside the handle shaft that needs pure armstrong.

Which ever harness your using, it's basically plug and play. I'm sure you realize this ;) So, I hear your frustration on this............. If you checked that the ECU had ground, the circuit board looked clean, with no burnt resistors, and no damage to the circuit lines, then it's on to the next solution. One thing I would have done, before tearing out the harness, was to install the CPS bypass, where you wire the senor directly to the ECU (there was a Service Bulletin on this years ago) We found this patch on an '88 that's giving up it's parts for other MJ's to live on, and Cherokee is the proud owner of this harness with the patch kit. I can't find the FSB on this right now............But, You basically cut the 2 wires from the engine harness (the one from the injector feeds) to the CPS connector, drill a 1/4" hole thru the firewall, and install 2 new lead wires directly to the ECU at C1(18VT) and D1(18WT) From the symptoms you write about, above, there a problem with the ECU letting the injectors open, and providing spark as needed :hmm: Did you by chance pull the disturber??? Got the timing off?? Have you checked the Cam shaft Position Sensor??? http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... Stator.htm The only other idea I have, which I'm sure you done, was to use contact cleaner on every connector, check the leads at each connector, and applied Die-elect grease to each connector. Stay in there..........I'm sure you'll get this problem solved. But.........take a brake, walk away from it for a couple days. I've gotten more done with taking brakes, and thinking about things before just trying this and that, and tearing this out, and tossing that 20feet away :headpop:

Hard to say what happen to that MJ over the past 23 years :hmm: From your history on it, the JY might have swapped the front axle, the original owner might have had a problem with the original axle and had a local garage change it out :dunno: The main thing is.......you got the problem worked out :D Now you just need to make a note on what parts are for the front axle, and tattoo it to the glove box for the next time, and move on to the next thing ;)