Wildman

Advance Auto have the tanks, both 18 gal, and 23 gal listed for around $130 a year ago, and now are $200. I bought a brand new 18 gal tank 6 years ago, and I think it was around $120 w/tax. The real problem comes with the shipping.......not with the weight, what about 15 pounds....the size of the carton, I just price out the shipping couple months ago, and at first, the shipping was $92, but I re-adjusted the size, and the shipping was going to be $28 for a 200 mile ground trip. So.....if you sell brand new tanks.....for say $XXX and add shipping of say....$28+.....where would that put the total price at????

Yea......if your truck is not holding on a hill, there's a good chance the clutch is slipping. If this is a very steep hill, then it's hard to tell. The old way to 'test' a clutch, is to get the truck going 15-20 mph (2nd gear) and skip 3rd, right into 4th, and let the clutch out, if the engine "bogs" down, the clutch is good, if it don't, the clutch is slipping. Mimi beast brings up a good point, and I'm sure the owner manual says the same thing......any time parking, the emergency (Parking) brake should be applied. Maybe you should take it back to the transmission shop, let them check it out and tell them you do know what your talking about ;) Oh......and I like this.... "ok, onto the next problem." :D

Man......it sound like you had a whole lot of FUN working on your 20 year old truck today :teehee: But your bumper does look nice and straight........I don't know what the problem could have been :roll: It's really amazing how 'cheesy' the factory step bumper is.......I just straighten one out for some one else, that one had a twist in it from some one using the hitch ball for something bigger that a wheel barrow :shake: Your looks really good now Mvusse ;) lets see the bike rack mounted. And this hitch should help support your factory bumper :brows: Oh.....and you should have let me patch them holes for you :roll:

Yea, I got a '86, 3 speed automatic (A-904), with the 2.5 bell housing......But it's only a 2wd :cry: I'd let you have it really cheep. The shipping would not be too bad, the last BA10 I shipped out was only $28. Other wise........Nice clean looking stock truck :D

I think "Promo" is the magic word. Some one the local board posted the "guide lines" to this, and it was written buy a team of Philadelphia lawyers, so if you "meet" all of the fine print..... Yea, let's see the big rebates :D One of our big car dealers up here is offering a $1.99 cap on gas if you buy a new car from them......I'd like to see the fine print on that deal. I'll stick to my old (14 year+) trucks, with no payment books, and just drive less :roll:

Yea.....That rust removal video was 8) But......I was going to say.....soak your rusty socket in PB Blaster :D You can buy it in the spray can, or by the gallon, which would be better for this job. Soak them overnight, wipe them off.....should be done.

:rotf: Ahh.......the other reason for wearing ear plugs :yes:

Yea, I don't see a problem with dropping the front axle out while your waiting for New Tools :D Just make sure the frame is support Very Good, and take that old 2wd tube out of there. Good for a long boat anchor, or scrap is paying good now. There is only the Calipers on the 2wd axle that can be used with a D30 axle. The hubs, rotors are all different. One thing you should really look at while the front axle is out of there, replace the oil pan gasket, and the rear main seal, with out the front axle in place, the pan can drop straight down, and you don't need to work it around the axle and the oil pump :D Makes it a quick and easy job.....now. Are you in need of a front drive shaft??? That I would have if no one else closer to you can get to you. I agree with having your existing rear drive shaft cut down, the only rear drive shafts I have here are lwb ones, I might have a swb.......got to look on the pile. The problem would be shipping $$$. If you have a 'Fleet Pride' in your area, they can cut and balance the drive shaft for you.....or any other place that dose that type of work. After you posted the pictures of your "New" MJ with the bad transmission, I'm really glad to see you going this route and saving another MJ from the scrap pile :D As far as finding a good engine for replacing the MJ you had, there are always many 'cheep' XJ around for that. If you were closer......I have a couple low mileage engines in the shop.....our problem around here is the trucks rust away with 60k on the clock, and the engines are not even broken in yet :cry: But.....shipping would kill that deal.

I used the Fel-pro #BS40612 last year with out any problems :brows: The 'one-piece' oil pan gasket is FEL-PRO Part # OS34308R, Much better that the multi piece cork gasket. Motion Offroad, mentioned the oil filter adapter, yes, very good idea to change the O-rings at the same time your doing the pan gasket. Here's an excellent "how-to" that has the correct part numbers for the o-rings, that I didn't follow and bought a "kit" and was missing one of the o-rings, and tossed the rest away :cry: And Pete, why the ear plugs???? It's not a noisy job :roll: Got the rest of the story on that :D Oh, I got it......I love digging rust junk out of the ears :roll: After all this......the only thing left that can leak oil is the Timing cover gasket and seal, but that's a pain, and you need to remove the water pump and Harmonic balancer to get at it :cry:

There's a very good chance the XJ proportioning valve you installed is bad. Here's A very good 'How-to' for rebuilding / bleeding the XJ valve. It's possible that some thing might have gotten into the valve while you were changing it out.

The exhaust down pipe is on the manifold with a 'gasket' so you might need to pry it apart. Having the exhaust off is better than working around it :brows: I really suggest you get this Jack The 2wd transmission weights about 60 pounds, and with the TC add about another 30 pounds. The reason I say to get this transmission jack, is you will need the floor jack to support the engine while your removing the trans, So, you need like 2 jacks to do this job by your self. Also, as you lower the transmission / engine, you need to watch that the fan blades don't touch the radiator, after you remove the trans, you can put a block of wood between the engine and the firewall to help support the engine. You can leave the transmission cross member support on but it just gets in the way while removing. The right jack will help to remove it in place. For the drain plugs, too late for you now, but These are available. Once you have the jack under the transmission, supported, and remove the cross member, you lower the trans/engine low enough to remove the CPS, and the top bolts, which are External torx bolts, Like This And then remove the 2 front 'screws' that hold the dust plate in place, the 2 bottom bolts and nuts, and remove the side bolts, then pry the trans back, and out. Using the proper jack helps a lot, and you will see where you need the floor jack to adjust the engine up and down, so you really need the 2 jacks to do this job. While the trans is out, it's also a good time to change out the RMS and oil pan gasket :brows:

http://www.autobodystore.com/

The Clutch disk alone is $35. I too have this same problem on the '89 and last year when I had everything apart, I only replaced the clutch disk, and seen the 'hot spots' on the flywheel, but just opp'ed to go this route at the time. Concerning that a whole clutch set is around $135, this is not a good choice just to replace the disk it's self. The fly wheel runs around $88. My clutch only chatters when I get stuck in stop and go traffic, or after running for a good 20 miles. I've found that sitting at a red light, if I just take it out of gear, and let the clutch out while sitting, It don't chatter as bad when I do put it in gear and take off. Yes, when time comes and it's time to "re-do" every thing, I will be replacing the flywheel, and a complete clutch set. Plus, this '89 MJ only had 85K on the clock last year, but the disk was so glazed over that's the reason I only replaced the disk. Bad mistake :cry:

For the time and effort to pull the tranny pan to get to the TV cable, I don't think I would want to pull one out of a junk yard :roll: First check if your is attached internally, and do the adjustment, and see if this solves the problem with the shifting, then if your cable is failed.....I think this is a dealer only part, and order a new one. Also......this cable along with many other parts are the same as the XJ's, so you Don't need to pull parts off a MJ in the junk yard just to match up.

I regret that I was cleaning up the photos last night and deleted alot of junk, but I'm glad you got to see the pictures :roll: So, you inherited this set up, and trying to make it right from the PO :cry: The only other solution is to find the correct pulley and change that out. I might have one 2.5 alternator shelfed some where's but I think your getting the correct alternator and pulley will solve this alinement's problem.

Now there a plan worth looking into. I seen you post over on the tech side too ;) I know not every one has a shop, and the space to store things, but all I was saying was you have a good MJ there, if the frame was rodded (like the one I just dragged back) or half totaled, then yea, strip it down. But from what I see on the prices out your way, plus with what newer parts are in it......that's just my 2 cents on the subject :D As far as body work, paint touch up / fix up, Here's A link to a very good web board. I would flip over getting something like you found up here in the super rust belt, that's why I've dragged a couple of MJ's out of PA just to get decent body's to work with. I have the shop, the space, and enough parts to make 2, 4wd MJ's sitting on / under the shelfs in the shop ;) Plus the low mileage engines you need, and the interior parts to detail them up.....just no time off the day job :cry: But that might be changing :brows:

Oh, that's nothing.....your good for another 100,000 miles :brows:

Roger - Why not give these guy's a call this week, and see if they can find the ID /OD pilot bearing you need??? It's Carolina Clutch, http://cc.aspartner.com/ All they have are Clutches, and I'm sure they can cross check something that would work for you ;)

Yea, Pete just posted last week about the 'hardware' store fitting to make the external slave work with the existing MC line. I don't blame you.....the cost of the AX-15, now a clutch kit......it's like your Just Empty Ever Pocket for this up grade :teehee:

Well crap.. I just put a brand spankin new MC on the ol girl........ Now that I know you did :D After you used my discount :D If no one else want the MC, I'll buy it from you for a spair :brows: Gee......glad I found that little how-to for ya ;) BLHTAZ, Quoted you this- Your price through me... $127 plus shipping. The part number is 52104110 if you wish to check in to it locally. That's about $20 less than Rockauto, but the one from Rock is "pre-filled"???

TV Cable. No, not the one hooked up to your TV, This One The Throttle valve cable. You need to check if it's connected to the transmission, internally by pulling on the cable to see if there is resistance, if that passes, then just follow the directions on that link, and push the plunger and it will automatically adjust it's self, more or less ;) There is a slim chance that the cable snapped, and then you need to drop the pan on the AW4 and replace the cable, and change the filter while your in there. This TV cable will keep the transmission in 1st gear all the time, not allowing it to shift into other gears.

As you know, there is a difference between the 2.5 and the 4.0 alternators, mounting tabs, and location. From what your pictures show, your pulley is not lining up, of course you know that :roll: So, I 'borrowed' these from Rockauto.com - This one is for a 2.5 w/AC- Image Not Found This one is for a 2.5 w/o AC- Not knowing 2.5 as well as 4.0's, I would say you have the wrong pulley on the alternator. Did you buy the alternator new???? If so, return it, and get the alternator for the NON- AC. Cause as others wrote, you missing that "extra" V section that pushes the 6 groove pulley out, in line with the harmonic balancer. And Yes, I did cross check them for a '87, 2.5 engine.

Now that's an excellent find :thumbsup: I know you need the engine.......But that thing is too good of shape to chop up :cry: 2wd transmissions are cheep, I've sold them for $65 just to get them out of here. I know you don't have a the space or shop, but just sit on it for a while, and you might just find a totaled XJ for a donor, that will give you the engine you need, and the transmission for your new find :brows: Could even give you the conversion for a 4wd :D Save another MJ :bowdown: Much better shape that the one I drag home 2 weeks ago for $400 :yes:

Besides the Transmission?? Change out the flywheel > Flex plate TV cable and bracket/linkage at the TB. Change out the TPS. Auto shift cable, and if you want......lock out cable from steering column. Floor shifter......or change out the steering column for a column shift :roll: Change out the floor peddles, unless you have a use for the clutch pedal :brows: Rear drive shaft, different length. Oh.....and transmission mount at the cross member. And I'm thinking that the wiring harness is the same for the TCU to plug and play. I thing I got it all ;) Easy job.......for you Pat :D