Wildman

Anti-seize? :D Guest I got up too early this morning :hmm:

Possibility a set of These. If the lug nut is exposed, not recessed in the rim, I would just take a good sharp cold chisel to it, along it's length, striking in a counter-clock wise direction, and it will either drive the lug loose, or split the lug enough to come loose. Oh......and when you put it back on.......yea......Anti-cease.

Yes there is a TSB and here it is- http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... rly_XJ.pdf And also the repair for the hinge pin- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Body/Hinges.htm

Like I said, this is a long weekend, and alot of member are out and about, so just wait a couple days, and I know of a couple member right around the corner from you what might make a deal with you......just wait until there back on there before you take a road trip ;) Oh, and posting pictures here - I just explained this to some one else - ....to post pictures here, get a FREE- Comanche Club Image Hosting account. Upload your pictures there, then at the bottom of the list, under the picture.....like this - Email & I'm Direct Link HTML Code IMG Code Just left click on the IMG Code, Yellow section, you'll see a "copied" light up, and go back to the message here and right click, "paste" and your picture will show up with out a problem Like this - I took out some info so you would see what it looks like, then hit Preview, below, and you picture will show up on the screen The picture must have [img} in the front and rear of the line.

Yes, stick with the stock MJ bench seat, it's a direct bolt in, no mods to swap out the buckets for the bench, the only thing you might need to do, is switch out the center seat belts, both the female connectors in the center because of the 'plastic' support, and add the center seat belt. I'm sure if you wait until someone from here, in your area see this, they will be glad to swap your buckets for a bench seat. If you were closer........I have a couple of gray bench seats here, and the seat belts. Even a blue and a red seat if you wanted. And I would swap them to you with out a problem. I know I've seen this before - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... bench+seat

THIS is one of the 'better' write ups out there in lurker country ;)

:agree: With Brent, that one project that's best left up to the pro's. The equipment is $$$ the parts are $$$$ and unless you have the equipment and knowage, in the long run, the shop will be less money. If you just want a quick fix, you can spend $40+ for a retro kit and use the adapter on the low side port, and suck some 134a into the system. How long that will last :dunno:

Yea......I notice something missing on your old springs........that little plastic slider on the tip of the spring. Oh :eek: ........And the steel part too. :D Glad it worked out for ya :brows:

Yea.....that made a big difference :roll: I guest your old springs were gone......way gone. Most all stock MJ's have the rear sitting a little higher than the front.....don't forget.....empty box.....no extra weight back there. Add some weight in the box, and it will lever out some.

Here......deziped just covered this - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10533

:agree: You can't pull the tab out until the wiper arms are "up" against the stop. The the tap hold the arm up. Then work the back of the arm back and forth to work it off the stub, lifting straight up. FYI - once the arm is off the stub, you will see a "gear" looking end of the stub= This "gear" was designed by my next door neighbor when he was with Trico back in the early 80's ;) Cause 2 years ago, I brought the MJ home, and he came running over, yanked the wiper arm off, and pointed at the gear and said......"That's my gear" :shake: Yea.....I got stuck putting the wiper arm back on :roll: Oh......any complaints about the gear......I'll give you his address.

http://www.rockauto.com FEL-PRO Part # VS50022C1 $4.03 Cork More Info ROL GASKETS Part # VS985 $4.32 Cork/Rubber More Info FEL-PRO Part # VS50522T $34.79 PermaDryPlus® More Info

Well.......I asked for the picture......and I got it :D Don......that looks great, nice mount :thumbsup: And yup.....the brass plate will add the final touch.

That works the best :D Just cut the hinge in half, and the door will be in your hands, then you can heat the torx bolts up some and they should break loose.

What about your turn signals??? On the dash, do they blink like they should, or just stay on??? With the headlight on and off. If the ground on the left side, behind the tail light, looks good, take it off, sand down some paint and the ring connector, apply some die-electric grease and install a new / bigger screw. Then check under the rear, left side, 6 inches in from the bumper, there is a connector there, take it apart, use contact cleaner and apply some die-electric grease, if your problem is still there, the wire harness in the rear has crimps on the line to the pigtails, check them all, take them apart, and use some B caps with die-electric grease, and this should solve the problem. At worst, you light switch could be bad, if it feels really loose, like not "clicking" when you pull it out, then that would need replacing.

Thanks, but thats why I am looking for used. Like i said above, too expensive to buy new. Sorry......I missed that :oops: You want to try a junk yard......or I can look to see what I have around??? Used of course.

It's only worth what someone is willing to pay...I agree and have a feeling that there will be some mysterious sale issue and the $4650 bid won't be a "winning" bid resulting in a sales transaction... Wade :yes: I'm thinking the same thing :roll:

Winning bid: US $4,650.00 wow........far cry from his 10K mark :hmm: Will we see it again.........

I guest you got to him before I did :roll: "If only I was closer.........." Well......If you got your box, that less competition for me on the next one :D Good luck with it Joe ;)

http://www.teamcherokee.com/Door_and_Re ... index.html About half way down the page, that's for brand new.

First off.......You found it :banana: Second........Welcome :waving: Third.......follow the above advice, ask, post pictures, use the search, and you'll find what you need. And I would have gone with the Haynes book first :roll: And lastly - J = Just E = Empty E = Every P = Pocket

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1181674 DORMAN Part # C93590 {First Stop} Front; 6 Ft Bed * Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days More Info $8.87 $0.00 $8.87 DORMAN Part # C93589 {First Stop} Front; 7 Ft Bed * Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days More Info $9.34 $0.00 $9.34 RAYBESTOS Part # BC93590 {Professional Grade 102 3/4" Overall Length} Front; Short Bed More Info $13.54 $0.00 $13.54 RAYBESTOS Part # BC93589 {Professional Grade 108 3/4" Overall Length} Front; Long Bed More Info $14.53 $0.00 $14.53 Yea......I gave up on Napa 5 years ago :roll: Rock, or Advance.....only place I go shopping :D

Yea.....the front wheel bearing should last more than 69K.....But a lot of veritable could effect the bearing :hmm: Here's a little How to on the front bearing replacement.

:teehee: Yea, I seen that on CL over the weekend.......thought it was more in your neck of the woods.......I thought the price was a little high......but local- vs.- travel..........yea.....not too bad. The guy didn't have too many details on the box thought......and like you said, listed it as a Cherokee box :roll: Well......when you done.....you know the routine - :needpics:

And if you have a zip wheel, or a small grinder, your better off cutting/grinding off the heads of the screws and just pulling the light right out, and finish taking the screws off with some vicegrips from the spring nuts. If you slip with the grinder.......a little paint touch up inside the tailgate wouldn't be noticed. Those screws are harden, that why your having problems drilling them out. And follow what MJeff mentioned.......install new stainless screws :yes: