Wildman

John - That's looking really good :D Even after them metal eating termites got a hold of it......Nice Job :thumbsup:

That's kind of a short haul......what 200-250 miles???? U-haul car dolly = $46 /day. Check with your local body shops / towing company's, they will probability be less that some national auto transport company.

I know you got this over in the Classified section, and some one is taking care of it for you........but you could have checked this out- http://www.teamcherokee.com/Transmission/index.html [bottom of the page] And alot of us have these laying around too :brows:

:eek: :eek: :eek: ' I knew Id get ya on that one!!! :clapping: Yea.....I might just take out your surprise in the care package, that you would need a grill for........just not to temp you on your idea :roll:

:eek: :eek: :eek:

Yea, I'll take you up on the chrome door handles, that's the only thing I'm missing so far, I was just going to get some at Keystone when I'm ready, but if you have them to spare, and can find them......drop me a PM :D I didn't think about the chrome tailgate handle.....I'll look into that. Thanks Mr. Don :D

ahh......the only problem I see with using a pole barn spike is it's not harden, and could wear out kind of fast. But cheep enough to replace every so often.

Yea......people that don't like chrome, aren't very "Bright" :teehee: (As soon as JT ships out a chrome grill and bumper for some up north here :roll: ) Sources for parts - Don't forget This sticky. http://www.rockauto.com/ http://www.partsamerica.com/ http://www.teamcherokee.com/ And there are other sources. And you can find some answers to questions with-in the 101K posts some where here ;) Hey!!!! I knew I had something to do this weekend!! Yea.....your monthly care package is waiting to be shipped south of the Mason / Dixon line too :brows: Now, we would steal any more of 'The_Slow_Norris's' topic here. :D I'll continue the post thievery since Mr. Slow (the new guy who doesn't like chrome) is slow. :D Mr. Bob, you have always been a class act in my book, and although this thread is a bit hard to follow (for me since I'm slow too :nuts:), it appears you are augmenting your class by ordering some chrome from Mr. JT? JT is a semi-class act in this case, but only because he appears selling chrome. Not good............ :cheers: Yes, Mr. Don, I'm going for the full chrome look on this one poor '89 MJ that just needs that little added touch to bring it out to a over all upper class looking street machine :D This would be the poor / sad looking MJ in question- And Mr. JT has found a complete chrome grill and bumper south of the Mason / Dixon line that would be fully rust free to apply to this original Virgina MJ, that don't belong up here in the North for much longer, to have it stand out against other MJ's. This will also have chrome mirrors that another member here sold me, and I have the chrome windshield trim in stock, so this will be a fully decked out. This whole idea came from input from others that have seen this MJ in person, and from your MJ Mr. Don. Of course the snow is gone now, by a month or two, and the red doors are on there to give this MJ the power door locks and the power windows that Jeep never gave to the MJ's leaving Toledo. A poor '96 XJ Country gave up it's doors for this added feature. As far as Mr. JT being a supplier of chrome, I have no problem with that. He seams to have no problem finding chrome and pushing it onto others.

Yea......people that don't like chrome, aren't very "Bright" :teehee: (As soon as JT ships out a chrome grill and bumper for some up north here :roll: ) Sources for parts - Don't forget This sticky. http://www.rockauto.com/ http://www.partsamerica.com/ http://www.teamcherokee.com/ And there are other sources. Don't even ask or look for new body parts for the rear box, they don't exist. Doors, front body parts are interchangeable with '84-'96 Cherokee's (XJ's) And you can find some answers to questions with-in the 101K posts some where here ;) Hey!!!! I knew I had something to do this weekend!! Yea.....your monthly care package is waiting to be shipped south of the Mason / Dixon line too :brows: Now, we would steal any more of 'The_Slow_Norris's' topic here. :D

Chico- Check out this Link And look at the first picture, you will see on the right side, the "Park brake strut & spring" this is what helps release the parking brakes, along with the spring on the wheel cable, that fits between the retainer and the parking brake lever. There is not a spring at the equalizer, this I double checked in the FSM. The 'flop' you have in the peddle after you release it is the wheel cable not pulling the cables back into the drums. You could also have the equalizer too tight, and it's not fully releasing the wheel cables. If you back off the equalizer locknut, and double check the wheel adjusters for drag, and then just tighten up the equalizer nut, a little at a time, and put the parking brakes on and off 5-6 times, until you get the right tension on the cables, you should have the parking brakes set right. There is a adjustment gauge that is use with a torque wrench that would put the correct tension on the cable also.

:agree: 2X's I always like the "just quit running" vehicles, drives the price way down ;) Sometimes all it needs is a little gas in the tank, and it runs again :roll: Course, that's an expensive repair today :cry:

Yea......people that don't like chrome, aren't very "Bright" :teehee: (As soon as JT ships out a chrome grill and bumper for some up north here :roll: ) Sources for parts - Don't forget This sticky. http://www.rockauto.com/ http://www.partsamerica.com/ http://www.teamcherokee.com/ And there are other sources. Don't even ask or look for new body parts for the rear box, they don't exist. Doors, front body parts are interchangeable with '84-'96 Cherokee's (XJ's) And you can find some answers to questions with-in the 101K posts some where here ;)

So.....they could have spelled it "Geep"??? That kind of works- G = Gota E = Empty E = Every P = Pocket

Yea.....I remember that one, last December, it was around Long Island / New York City, had the plow with it, only had like 19K miles.......yea, it sold the first time for like $7200.....turn out it had a bad alternator, and the guy re listed it, in February, Sold the 2nd time for around $4000, that's when I though the alternator cost that guy $3200 :nuts: Yup......your going to get that kind of money.....at least make sure it starts and makes it out the driveway :teehee: This one......I'll go with #2......I think it will be pulled before the end of the auction.....and show up some place else......again. Other wise......I'm thinking around the $7400 area for a high bid.

Try these two, see if it helps- http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... door+locks http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... door+locks

:laughin: I'll be waiting :typing:

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

:agree: I wouldn't tow anything bigger that a wheelbarrow.......empty, with a 20 year old stock bumper. I just repaired a stock bumper for another member, took the "twist" out of it, and a few dings. This is what the 'inside' of the bumper looks like, upside down, and view from the back side- And this is the bumper support removed from the bumper itself, that in the section that is bolted to the frame brackets, and the support you have for towing, holding the bumper on- The end results were, that I add a 1/8" x 3" steel plate to the support from bracket to bracket, to help stiffen up the factory support, and forgot to take a picture of it, and then welded the bumper back on the support. Go with the trailer hitch that hornbrod linked to, you'll have something that will be able to tow a small trailer, and give you a recovery point at the rear, and not pull you stock bumper off the truck.

Well.......not right now, My MJ spiritual advisory, Cherokee, just told me the other night to keep them, and install them on the '89 Dream Machine, with the XJ D44 I have coming in. So at this point, and with them so hard to come along......I'm going this route. If plans change......I will advise you. Here's a real 'booty' fab job on a MJ that's for sale a couple blocks from the house here, not mine, I will not take any credit for this one :roll: Image Not Found Off topic, Any one interested in this '90 MJ, Here's a link to the pictures / info. Don - I will get thru the refined finish on the springs and see what I can find, yes, there should be a stock number on them. As far as beaterjeep's having a D35 over the MT springs..... :dunno: Could be a towing package set up.......Beater, do you have the class 2/3 hitch on your MJ??? Now that I think of it, I got to look at the one I just brought back, that had the trailer hitch on it :hmm: And I don't remember what the springs were like, but I know it had a D35 back there.

:needpics: There.......I said it :D I know, I read your camera was no good, but after it makes the trip to the taxidermist, and is mounted........I think you owe us some pictures ;)

After Seeing you pictures on the metric ton springs, I snap some picture of the MT springs I got off a '87, 4.0 / AW4 / 231 / D44, lwb, that also had a trailer hitch mounted. Compare these to your springs.......I think you'll see a difference- And Yes, that 'brown' stuff is a "Special" seasoning that we have up north here, Kind of detects that the parts came from north of the Mason / Dixon line :D

Mvusse - Got some pictures for you ;) Go Here for all the pictures, and you can pick and choose which ones you want to use :brows: But here's a sample - Besides the sender being 180* different, the supply tubes are longer for the MJ, and also the exterior supply tubes are different. So prove this to Parts-America, and see what they say :roll:

:agree: Take the above advice, you'll save alot of time in the long run :brows: Here's a post from the pass, give you most all the info you need for the brake lines. Also, JTdesigns posted this little 'how-to' double flair. Here. One thing you might want to plan on.....replace the wheel cylinders. If your truck is very rusty, the lines will be "rust-welded" to the wheel cylinders, The bleeders frozen up and for the $11 for new ones, it's not worth the time to try to get the lines off, plus, it's a good upgrade to solve problems latter, for bleeding. A little anti-cease will help when you put the lines back together.......little on the lines at the hollow nuts, and some on the treads of the hollow nuts. Also take the bleeder off the new wheel cylinders, and coat the treads with some anti-cease. And......while your at it.....Replace the rear soft line, RAYBESTOS Part # BH381089....About $12. If you have not.......remove the rear hight valve and the 2nd brake line, and follow the info on the front distribution block. Info here. All this "extra" work will solve alot of future problems, and give you years of trouble free rear brake problems.

Mvusse - I'll take some side by side shot of the sender units, I have both in the shop, and seeing how it's Parts America (Advance Auto Parts) They will believe it ;) I'll post them up tomorrow for ya :brows: Or you want me to PM them to you so you can print out some 8 x 10 glossies :D And Yes Chico, that is a MJ sender unit you have pictured ;)

I like the stock look, and your's looks very stock, So......I vote for the new decals :D Is it the 70's - 80's look......Yea, because these trucks were made back then ;) I can always tell if a truck has been repainted.....cause the stickers are missing.......And what else is missing with the new paint job??? Your looks 'un-finished' with out the decals. Our old friend 'Spencer' from jeepstickers.com has not been around for the past year.....and last year I sent him some 'new - old stock' Pioneer decals to re-produce.......and I guest there lost now. And then the guy from Canada came on e-bay and started selling the decals.....so I guest we all go that way. Each truck has it's own look. I would think that the decals would "add" a little detail to your MJ :D And if you want to up-grade your MJ......go for the Pioneer decals :brows: Try that in photoshop and see how it looks ;)