Wildman

Now hold on Wildman, I called dibs on that drivetrain a while back, IF you sold it. :brows: And YOU told me you were going to hang on to it for now. So, is it for sale now LOL? ;) What??? :dunno: You think I only have one low mileage drive train????? Well, your right, I only have one with 63K on it.......the other one has 67k. :teehee: Plus, that was a while ago, and I since found a '88 with 105K on it that I'm going to use for the one I need. Things change with time, and I find "new" donors.......and that also changes things :yes: SO.......You want me to keep that 63K 4.0 until you show up here???? (Sorry to step on your tread here Wanderin :oops: )

My voting finger is sore :cry: I hope this was all worth it for the $25 make over :roll: Oh......and as promised........the Bison chip dip will be on it's way :D I just hope the younger sister takes defeat well :teehee: And.......now on to the next contest......... http://photocontest.freedom.com/shelby- ... p?itemid=6 I sure hope you get some REAL news down there, instead of these goofy contests :shake:

Well.........I wouldn't call it my "junk" collection........I concider it my "Treasure Finds" Kind of like this- And there is No Junk there at all :D I think you should go back to that JY and grab that '86, and save another MJ from the melting pot :brows:

The answer is.......NO. The only thing that has any "safety" issue is the top vents on the gas tank, called a " fuel tank pressure relief and roll over valve" That dose not work with the Renix system, it will work for an OBD I or OBD II system. Our ECM do not store any codes or info after the key is turned off, and each New start is a fresh start, the ECM goes into an "open loop" until the engine warms up to operating temperature, then goes into a "closed loop" When you came to a panic full dead stop, something came loose. Right off the top of my head .........I can't think what it could be. You mention about all the new parts you installed, but the OP replaced the CPS. I would check the connector first, by disconnecting it, and then plugging it back together first, then try the engine to see if it starts. Also.......put up the specs of your MJ, OK, we know it's a '89, and assume it's a 4.0, but what about the drive train......auto, or manual?? 2wd or 4wd??? Yes, this all matters, you could have joshed the NSS when you hit the mail box :roll: ......I mean the panic stop. Now.......your door, yes, you said the latch side dropped down, and you pried it back up, Yes, when you hit the mail box, you bent the door back, pass fully opened, you tweaked the A pillar and forced the top, or both hinges in to the body, that where you want to try the 2x4, between the door it's self, and the A pillar. to try to "re-bent" the hinges back out. If you hold the 2x in between the two, and "force the door shut, you will pull the hinges back out of the A pillar. Oh.......and Yes, I am a door man, mostly commercial doors and operators, but I also know car doors (mvusse) :D OK......I re-read what you tried, your getting fuel, 39 pounds at the rail, that's good, but are you getting spark???? The CPS would be the first thing to check, like I wrote above, but check your "new" wires at the coil and distributor, and check all the plug wires. Check for spark before you go any further.

Excellent link Wildman. I have added that one to my "Jeep Favorites" for future reference... Thanks :cheers: No Problem 8) But.......you know I've posted the links before......all from the same site......So, bookmark the site, and you'll share all the info at once :smart: http://www.lunghd.com/ One of the best site out there :papers:

Yea........we don't count the City as part of New York :teehee: As far as that 2.5 goes........I know where a nice low mileage 4.0 (63K), married to a AW4 and a 231 sits in WNY :roll: For what it matters........you got a good rust free MJ, I'm sure you can find a good rotted out donor around you, or did you plan on using ole' rusty for the donor :D

UM, if I may.... Get a 1991 Comanche or newer. That way you get away from the Renix motor. The renix is a GREAT motor, but the 91+ 4.0L is just a weeee bit better! ;) You may........ I'm just stuck in the Renix era......... :yes:

yea......we can tell.....your hiding behind that get-tar :roll: OK.......8 hours to go, ahead by almost 1100 now.......the other team only seams to vote on weekdays :hmm: Got the voting machine fired up.........finish up here, and start getting the tally count up........and get my laundry done too............Busy day off :( We'll get this one done, and then start on the video games for you :laughin: Well.......I was going to say......."start making some news" ..........until I read the rest of that........never mind........ :roll:

Cause the little $3 switch you put in line can't handle the amp load of the fan ;) Here's a little info what a relay does, and how to wire one in :D You can run 16-18 ga wire to the switch, but bump up to at least 12 ga for the fan and relay feed.

Looking good :D 19.5 hours to go, and Steph is ahead by 1100+ :D I'm off tomorrow......so I can get a few ringer's in just in case ;) Now.........what ya want to do about this?????? http://photocontest.freedom.com/shelby- ... p?itemid=6 Start loading up the votes??? Or wait until the near end??? Dang......does your paper have any news, or just all these contests?????? :teehee:

First off........don't trust the "self adjuster's" I know what your were trying, the only true method, it to jack up the wheel, and adjust the drag by hand, and then check them at every oil change. Second, more that likely, you sprung the A pillar where the hinge is welded in to the body. The bolts on the door are adjustable, but not on the A pillar. You could try the 'ol'e ' door fully open, and a floor jack on the far (lock) corner, with a block of wood and jack up the door to try to spring the hinge back up and in. Other wise, it's, take the fender off, and re-work the A pillar to get the "spring" out of the hinge, like cutting off the hinge and reworking the mount. You write about "forcing" the door shut, that means that the door is "hinge bound" and even thought you don't see it, the A pillar is out of shape where the hinge is mounted. Another thought........try a 2 x 4 between the door and the A pillar, and force the door out, that might straighten out the hinge mount too. Oh.......and I hope this wasn't your neighbors mail box that got in your way :roll:

Great write up :D The facts were spot on :thumbsup: Always good to see a write up on the MJ 8)

I could see your Dad's point, your driving a 20 year old vehicle :eek: But..........It's one of the most reliable vehicles on the road ;) You don't see alot of Ford or Chevy's that are 20 years old on the road every day. I see 50+ Cherokee's every day, Renix era, and newer. Eagle's story is true, I've had bad experiences with "New" vehicles too, now I only buy used vehicles, and get the "market" value or less, and plan on putting some $$ into them, and I'm further ahead. I see you made your choice, and I thing a good choice ;) If your Dad insists that you get something newer, then I would go for a '89 MJ, at least that's newer that your '88 XJ :D And........it is a good looking '88 XJ ya got there too :brows:

That said it all :thumbsup:

:agree: Just get a kit and do the entire tank, you fix one spot, and that just weakens the other 8 spots ready to start leaking. http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?number=S7Q&dept=12 Spent the $46 now, and save buying a new $170 tank, and the way you off/on road........you might need that "spare" tank soon :brows: Plus.......I'm all out of gas tanks :oops:

Yea.......I don't have a Chrome one :D Yet :cry: Plus, I just added another one to the pile.......after that picture :brows: Some of them headers are junk, and in the pile for the little parts, others are good ones........around here, headers are hard to find.......lot's of rear end crashes, and the headers just don't hold up to them rear enders :oops: I just posted that to give MJeff an idea what his shop should look like......after a couple months :D

Man........That's not a shop, to darn clean :shake: You got to build some shelfs to fit all the extra parts in, and still have a little room to pull a MJ in to work on.......... Kind of like this- Course I know your just moving into your shop, it took me about 2 weeks to fill that one corner of my shop :D

I'll throw my 3 cents at ya - Yes, I like the locations on the XJ in the picture. But, I would think the center point would be a little better, a little further back towards the windshield, that is if there is no cross brace there. As far as the hole, I don't think you'll loose too much of the hood strength by cutting a large hole, after all, it's just the sheet metal, no structural member. Even if you do cut smaller rectangular holes, I would think a air nibbler would be the best tool to use, it will give you a nice clean cut, and clean edges.......but alot of little half moons all over the place :roll: Course you can prevent that with a pan under the cut :brows:

So.......JT.........ah.....er.....Why are you watching Videos on "Rejections"?????? Humm..........Is this a hint or something????? :teehee:

Yea, you'll never see anything like that at the big box store Here the link from Graingers, you should be able to fine something from there. Locks Look under Heavy Duty and Extra Reach.

The main cable from the Positive side of the battery goes to the larger post on the starter solenoid, and the smaller gauge wire(solenoid feed wire) goes to the small post on the solenoid (from the starter relay - near the coil)

Yea.......that thing ^ My description was not too good....... :oops: Long day = Typing suffers :nuts: But......Glad you got the problem solved :thumbsup: I do always like the 'easy' fixes :brows:

Your heading in the right direction ;) The TV cable sounds like your problem, and it runs from the "inside" of the AW4 up to the throttle body bracket. the TV will keep the tranny in 1st or 2nd, and no kickdown. Here'sA link to the adjustment of the TV cable........it's really easy, almost self adjustment. The only other thing to check would be the wire connectors to the tranny, you night have knock one loose while changing the cables. And check the AW4 box on the back side of the kick panel for a loose connection.

I bet that Chrome grill caught your eye.........didn't it Don??? :D That's located about 1-1/2 hours East of me, I'll be out that way next week on a job, but the auction ends in 2 days........can't check it out for you all :cry: Not that I would want to :teehee:

No, that's not a good idea, I understand why you want to do this, but one of the reasons the axle "Hub" fits into the wheel rim is for added support, if your rim is out past the hub, then your resting all the vehicles weight on just the 5 studs. One of the reasons that people don't use wheel spacers. Those rims are the Jeep 5 star, which I believe is 5 inch back set. Oh.......And....... :needpics: :D I'm running the same rims, with 235/75R15's and the fronts rub on the LCA on a hard turn, right and left.