Wildman

Yea, but you can't get it rolling and pop the AW4 from neutral to first gear to get it started with a dead battery. :teehee:

:hmm: That wouldn't be me........would it :roll: :teehee:

No, you replace the clutch master first.........then replace the fuse box. You have a very common problem with the brake fluid leaking from the clutch master and melting down the fuse box :eek: Your lucky the truck started after you went back to get it, very uncommon. Don't trust that will happen again :roll: If the fuse box is really deformed, melted down, it's shot, time for a replacement. Drop me a PM, I have a couple of fuse boxes and wire harness here if you can't find one at the JY. The clutch master you can get from a parts store.

Here's some info on decoding the vin#-

the rear parking brake cables are the same, they will fit either the right side or the left side. RAYBESTOS Part # BC93591 {Professional Grade 51 3/4" Overall Length} Rear $11.46 The front cable is determined on the swb or the lwb- RAYBESTOS Part # BC93590 {Professional Grade 102 3/4" Overall Length} Front; Short Bed $14.58 RAYBESTOS Part # BC93589 {Professional Grade 108 3/4" Overall Length} Front; Long Bed $15.61 The above prices are from www.rockauto.com The front is a pain to change out because it runs under the floor mat and the seat, and thru the back of the cab. For those of us that need the parking brake for State vehicle inspection......It's a Must replacement :headpop:

That what I thought too :hmm: But......I did drop some info for the "cowboy" :D

Good.......then we're doing our job :D Man......If I could only find rust free bodies like that one........ :shake: All I find are rotted out bodies, but with low millage for the price you paid for that MJ. Think it over what you want to do......and keep in mind, there are alot of cheep XJ's out there for parts :brows:

Yea, you would be........... :teehee: There 20 years old #2 :shake:

What everyone else have pointed out is all true ;) But one point I will throw out there is.......the truck is 20 years old, and even thought the body looks great, and rust free, the truck is still 20 years old, meaning that all the seals and rubber hoses and fittings are 20 years old. For the kind of money the seller is asking, he better be showing you some receipts for the items replace over the past few years, other wise your in for a big surprise when things start leaking oil, and loosing brake line, and a plugged radiator. My DD now I got 2.5 years ago, with 81K on the clock, the body.....well, it's rusty, but by the time I fixed all the oil leaks and rebuilt the cooling system, and re-build the brake system.......I dumped over $1500 into it, for a $500 '89 MJ........That my point. Oh.......did I mention that these trucks are 20 years old???? But......on the positive note.......the Laredo is one rare model :brows:

Ok.......one question........ How long did it take to clean the car????? ;)

It's got to be the roll bar causing wind drag........... :teehee: That's hard to believe, cause my first MJ 6+ years ago was a stock, 2wd, 2.5, 5 speed, and I was pushing 20-22 mpg :hmm: You went thru all the items that you should, but, did you check if the brakes are dragging?, are the axles in good shape, IE: the bearings lubed and working correctly? Are you running stock tires?? Like 215/75R15's and the proper air pressures? And in previous treads........how are you calculating the mileage?

Yes, with the engine off, and after you totally bleed the system, you need to apply approximately 250 pounds of pressure to the brake pedal to re-set the differential valve.

Or........the kind that slip over your existing mirror??? Like this?

Anybody got any good ideas on how to get the back of the cat out of the pipe without destroying it. It's definately stuck. As mvusse wrote, the pipe has an 'impression' from the U-clamp and will not just pull apart.......so take your tree cutting sawzal and cut the pipe just behind where the clamp was, then to put-r back together, just get a short exhaust pipe extension, and cut that to fit.......with your tree cutting sawzal :roll:

Your talking about the after market bull bar, like this- Which I use for the plow lights. There are 2 right angle "clips" on each side (total of 4) that bolt to the lower bumper bolts, and 2 near the top of the bumper, where there should be 2 plastic plugs that hold the bull bar in place. This bar just bolts to the bumper, and not to the frame, not real strong, but it holds the lights ;) And there should be 2 "brackets" for fog/driving lights on the bar. If you need more detail photo's let me know.

I'm Baaack :evil: :D Yea, drop me a PM and I'll quote you a new CRL slider. Your choice of the Light tinted or the Dark tinted, plus I include 2 tubes of Urethane sealant with the slider. http://products.crlaurence.com/ProductP ... ml?Origin= Having both the 3 panel and the 4 panel slider, the 4 lite give you a wider opening ;) And, an order is going in this week :roll:

Hehe......that's the same thing I told him when I seen it :teehee: The only thing......... mvusse needs a socket on the passenger side to match :brows:

If your getting that much rust inside the tank, you need to find the source. From the filler neck, or from the tank it's self, and if it the tank, it's not going to be much longer before you start loosing that expensive stuff that you "pump" into the tank :cry: I know you don't want to hear it.......but time for a new tank. But the good news........Raybuck Autobody Parts, have really good prices on New gas tanks ;)

You say you only have 80K on it, but you use it for plowing (so do I ;) ) and you should know how hard plowing is to any truck. I'm not saying you neglected it, just that plowing beats any truck faster, plus with all the reversing done with plowing, you really have like 100K+ on the truck. If you think the slave is shot, might be a good time to to a complete clutch job, with pressure plate, disk, pilot bearing and flywheel too, in fact, you can buy a "clutch kit" for only a few bucks more that just the slave cylinder. Check out This place.

Hum :???: 199K on the clock........and you think the timing is off??? Did you check the timing chain??? Hate to put that up, after you put in a new radiator.......and now got to pull it, and pull the water pump :oops:

Yea......when you get things squared away, drop me note, just that we're doing that parts road trip this weekend / next week, and save some in shipping :brows: And don't forget that "custom" spring shackle quick disconnect should bring the value of the MJ way over the top of any "book" price out there :D Oh......and Yes, I have a taillight for you.......have the insurance company try to find one :brows:

I know what it is...........and I seen it :D Your just out of the loop Don :teehee: And Man.......am I glad the quick disconnect survived, the bed side and the tail light can be replaced, but the quick disconnect could never be replaced......after all these miles on it :brows: So........I take it that you might need some more parts this coming weekend :roll: I could bring this down for ya- Image Not Found You know my # :D Oh........and I hope your "friends" took your side in this :brows:

I don't know if the dealership can even get the brake lines??? Paging Dr. Taz........ But, we all covered this before.........right Here. And right Here. And all the info you should need is there. I've alway make my own brake lines, and Double Flair the fittings, once you get the hang of it, it's easy, and a lot less costly. And......if your going this far, replace that 20 year old soft line from the body to the axle, RAYBESTOS Part # BH381089 Rear; Center; Short Bed $13.93 (Rockauto.com) And save yourself some trouble latter.

Can I answer that????? :roll: At one time I always used Fram filters.......until one day, while lurking around here......and reading all the 'bad' things about Fram, and seeing the info above (which I bookmarked) I switched to Purolator filters, AND if you go to Advance auto, the Purolator filters are the same price as the Fram filters, about $3.59, and every once in a while, they have - Buy one, get one free, So I stock up, and walk out the store a happy consumer :D And........I use to have the oil light come on at start up with the Fram, and since I've change brands, never happens now ;) Should you run out and spent $12 for an oil filter??? That's your call. I wouldn't, cause if you change your oil every 3-4 thousand, the $4 filter will do the job, cause you should change the oil filter at every oil change, not every other like some "books" say :roll:

Just about everyone :D This is one write up on the rear height leveling valve = Here. When I did mine, I used the MJ porp valve, and used the 'Tee' to tie in the front port and front lower port at the Proportioning valve. This is also a good time to re-pipe the entire system, running all new lines from the front to the rear axle, replacing the soft line, and to the wheel cylinders.