Wildman

What a Great story :jump: Got a good laugh out of that one.........made my week :yes: Disclaimer: I don't see any politics in that story what so ever.........just the reality of how the system works. If you don't mind.........I'm going to cut and paste that to a couple friends of mine, I'm sure they will like it too :yes:

OK......I read your story, twice, and the way I'm reading it........your going to junk a 4.0 engine that has 60k on the clock, because it over heated? :huh???: Yes, I read that you replaced the radiator, and other items, but how do you know that you just didn't blow a heater hose or the expansion tank, some thing simple, and now think you need to install a HO with the '99 intake :???: Unless your 4.0 was really neglected over the years, I wouldn't think that the internals would just crap out and cause you to steam over. Yes, it's possible, but take a step back and start checking and doing some diagnostic what the problem could be. Like a compression check, and ever do a cooling system pressure check. It could be just a bad head gasket that's causing your problem. I've boiled out my coolant on my Ford 351W several times, blown hose, water pump implosion, 3 year old radiator letting loose. Old radiator exploding going up a "hill" in West Virgina. Red lined the temp gauge, and as of the past week, it turn 265K on the clock. And this is pushing 11k+ pounds down the road every day :yes: It just sounds like you want to upgrade to an HO 4.0, so go for that, and re-wire the complete truck, and make all the changes that are needed for the HO to work. And that is a LOT of work to make it click. The only one I can think of is Jasper, unless someone else had a better source. I think the guys here that are pushing 300K on there 4.0 would have your problem :doh: I think it would be better to spent the 57 cents and get the proper thermostat housing gasket :roll: It might be better to step back and check what you have now, solve the cooling problem, or as your story goes, spent about $5K to make the conversion to what you think you need, and run this MJ for another 30 years ;) Oh.......and unless you have some old spirits living in your 4.0, I don't think the ghosts and goblins got to your cooling system :shake:

Yea, it's kind of a non-bias 'report'........but the bottom line is.........Purolator :yes:

Yea, the only cure for that is.............. Buy more MJ's :D :rotf: I agree.......if you can find a XJ, same era that's a junker, is the best way, cause your going to miss, or forget a small part here and there, and also, unless you have a 4wd sitting near by, to check where everything goes, like vacuum lines, if you do the D30 disco. The conversion is not a real pain, very plug and play, the results are really worth it :yes:

Agree with you on the back angles to support the lower front mount, cause of your lift, you need to drop the plow carriage lower to keep the moldboard angle correct for pushing. I know you have your plate mounted on the outboard side of the frame, but don't relie on just the three bumper mount holes, the front "frame" is not that strong at that point. One old plow MJ that I dissected last year, the front section was cracked and bent down just from the plow mount :eek: On your diagram, the purple line, if you extent it further into the frame, 4-6 inches, even with one bolt tied thru the frame, you'll transfer more of the force and load into the main frame of the MJ. And still use the "kicker" back like your yellow line shows. And yea.......I'm still not ready with my plow, but all I need to do is hook up the power wire, and toss the hitch pins on, and I'm ready ;) I just hope the snow holds off for another 2 months.......after I'm done with an outside job :D

:agree: I think the Haynes book saids to "re-surface" the flywheel, but that's not a true statement, and the FSM is the real 'bible' on the Jeep service. I made the mistake 1-1/2 years ago when replacing the clutch (that was totally glazed) and not replacing the flywheel that had hot spots on it, now when it's run a few miles (hot), taking off from a dead stop, the clutch chatters :shake: :doh: All the effort to pull the tranny to change the clutch, yea, spent the $70 and have a complete job.

And for additional reading material on oil filters.......... http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oi ... index.html If Advance has Purolator's 2/1, guest I'm going shopping tomorrow :brows:

I was wondering how you were doing with your plow set up.........and yea, we got a dusting last week......and more projected for tomorrow :eek: And No.......I don't have my plow ready for the season.......Yet :doh: I think you'll like your setup better with the E47, and good idea with making your own switches, yea, that stuff is pricey for sure. Just one thing........when you get the solenoid, make sure it's for a plow set up, or for a motor, not like a starter solenoid, they don't hold up with the plow motor. Keep the update.......before the snow falls :yes:

Off the top of my head........I'd say, NO. I know I swap someone a good pan last year cause they need one, plus the fluid level tube (dip stick tube) is welded/soldered to the pan. You might get one thru a transmission shop, like thru there supply house, but I don't think a auto parts store would have them.

When I first came on tonight............. :eek: :eek: :eek: Then after a little time......looking for the right buttons............ :roll: Now after a couple of hours............. :D :D :D I like it......kind of took the old format out of the black and white days, and into to than new fangled color age :yes: And I like some of the new smilies.......... :doh: Great job Pete :thumbsup: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

Here's the write up on the drum brakes, for just the adjustment part, scroll down to the bottom of the article.

The way I was taught, and have alway adjusted the "self-adjusters" was to raise the wheel(s) off the ground, pull brake adjuster tool (screwdriver) down to tighten, up to loosen, and spin the wheel by hand (forward motion) until you achieve a 'drag' on the wheel, and the shoes will be properly adjusted. Adjusting the rear drums solves alot of braking problems, the "self-adjuster" just don't work like they should, and the rule of thumb is to check the drum brakes at each oil change ;)

JeeperjohnfromPA posted this up a loooong time ago......From an '87 brochure. but it's still good :D http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

But Mr. Hornbrod beat me to it :oops: The second line, second set of digits will give you the paint code for your exterior. From what I see, I would guest - HS3 = Dover Gray OR as an option- AA9 = Charcoal Gray HA2 = Sterling Silver Those were some of the colors for '90 in your range.

I assume that your talking about the TV cable (or the "kick down")??? That's mounted internally in the AW4, if you can, pull the tranny with the TV cable attached, just disconnect the cable from the throttle mount on top of the intake. Here this will give you an idea what's involved if you really want to disconnect it from the tranny. Also tells you how to "adjust" the cable after you do your swap :brows:

:teehee: Yea.......now if you do that every 6 months......your MJ will last another 20 years :D Oh........I came across This if you need any pointers on that job ;)

That sounds like good news :D Yup, you caught it in time. The "electronic component cleaner" is just a fancy name for contact cleaner. You should only have to spray it once or twice, and I guest put some rags on the floor to catch the 'drippings' after that, any fluid that got into the circuit breaker box should be cleaned out. Yea, it would be a good idea to replace the master before you put the box back together...........and don't forget to add some die-electric grease to the back of the box before you reconnect it to the engine harness. That will keep any moister and corrosion out of the connector.

I wanted to post This up for you the other day........but we were all 'out to lunch' this weekend ;) Hope there's some pointers in here for you.

You didn't say that your checked your tranny fluid level after you got home........I would think you did. With the long drive you had, and "pushing" it with the extra weight, there's a good chance that your were over working the tranny. On the right side of the tranny / engine, there is a breather for the transmission, it's mounted on one of the tranny/engine bolts, up high, right near the tranny dip stick tube, the fluid could have expanded and started foaming and escaping out of the breather, and like you said, dripping down on the exhaust, and burning off. Even with the "low" mileage you have, 70K, you should really do a fluid change, like every 30K miles, drain the fluid, and get a filter and pan gasket, and that should help preserve the transmission for some time. And if the fluid is "semi-burned" I wouldn't wait too long to change it. The AW4 is a stout tranny, but yes, they do fail, and hopefully your is not that far gone........yet.

I found that interesting also........where the major media has the polls leaning the other way......... I think we'll all be surprised on 11/5 on what the majority of the public thinks also :roll: I'm thinking the major media had this right one time before- http://www.chicagotribune.com/media/pho ... 569547.jpg :teehee:

Yea, you can clean it with some "Contact Cleaner" The grease should be in there.......it's "Die-elect Grease" Both of these items you can get at the auto parts store......like Advance. From your pictures......it don't look like the brake fluid from the master leaked on it too long, but don't wait too long to get it cleaned out.

I know this will not help much.........But I have a couple Renix era low mileage 4.0 engines here........and your WAY up there :cry: If you want a "Quick fix" the best thing is to find a '87-90 4.0, and just swap it out, shouldn't take you more that a weekend to do that, then plan on the long term stoker.

:typing: ...................... :hateputers: ................ :popcorn: ................. :ack: ...................... :popcorn:

Your replies are in your original post......."Clutch Slave Cylinder" :roll:

I don't think you want to loosen the tie rods, you would want to take the sway bar links off. Another thought.......after you loosen the swap bar links, or the whole thing from the frame.......place the screw jack between the frame and the axle, on the right side and force the coil down to give you some extra room. You didn't mention if you removed the starter????