Wildman

There a Zip file over here that runs thru the ignition switch, under the "Electrical" heading. http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm

I'll post up some picture of a Meyer's 2 meter {Factory} under cartage / frame, there not the greatest pictures, but I do have this off now, and can take pictures of the under cartage, and measurements if you need- I was going to say.......the nice thing with the Meyer's is you can re-install the OEM bumper.......but your going with a winch mount also......so that might not work. I also have a Snoway like this- Over the weekend I could get more detailed pictures if you need, I know some one is putting a Meyer plow on their MJ now, and might post better pictures for you ;) As you know......the under cartage from the CJ will not fit on the MJ / XJ. Well......not a direct bolt on.

in and of its self there is nothing wrong with the 96 OBDII setup. Technically you are right. It's just a personal beef with certain vehicles and their OBD 2 systems I've owned over the years. :D I like OBD II is really easy to troubleshot by getting a code... :agree: Much easier to get a code to start trouble shooting, than just replacing sensors :roll: But, I'll agree that the harness you should get for your project should be from the '91-'95 HO era, which would be the OBD I system.

:eek: Then.........have you be banging your head on the windshield....... :wall:

Had to go out of state and see it with my own eyes to believe it really does exist. :D I know.........I keep reading about this "rust free" thing, then I look at my pile and I don't believe it :dunno: I guest I got to get further south than Ohio and PA ;) Although.........my one '89 came from Virgina, and that's kind of "rust free" :brows:

Glass it's self will not rust, but as Dirty wrote, if a hot spark from a grinder or welding landed on the glass, it will etch into the glass surface, and the foreign particle will rust. More that likely, the windshield suffers from scuffs and scratches from the wiper arms, when the blades fall off, and the arm makes contact to the glass. If you take off the wiper blade, I'll bet the end of the arm is right where the scuff is in your windshield. There are compounds and buffer pads out there to 'repair' the damaged glass. Along with epoxies to repair stone chips. The windshields are laminated, made up from two layers of annealed glass, with a plastic sheet between, thus called........"Safety glass" Most older glass will 'dis-color' at the edge when the lamination starts to separate. Whats this word "Rustorius" :???: It don't come up on my spell check :dunno:

Maybe not a freak thing........just sitting, the CPS or the connector "dried" out. Still check the voltage / ohms on that sucker, and really plan on changing it out........before you have to lay in a foot of snow and drop the tranny to change the CPS :headpop: Oh.......and have fun installing your undercarriage.......you have any questions......drop me a note ;) The only real problem is getting that one bolt in behind the alternator, other wise......it's a straight bolt on.....with a couple 1/2" holes to drill :D And if you had the OEM tow hooks on your MJ......it's even easier :brows:

Well.........your getting close to my count.......but all my MJ's are in one place, one state. Now you have MJ's in multi states.........so you win :thumbsup: And what's the "rust free" you speak of :huh???: It there such a thing :hmm:

Not true.......I have a '89 swb with the metric ton (5 leaf) springs, D44, and it had a factory trailer hitch on it. I've had one '87 lwb that had the 5 leaf metric ton springs and D44. But your right.......the metric ton / big ton / Tow package came with either the 2.5 or the 4.0 engine.

Yes, you need a primer on the rusted/bare/repainted pinch seam for the urethane sealant to "bond" This is what your looking for.......or have the glass shop use their primer for their sealant.

The Dude right above me :smart: Is right........'96 and older XJ's front 4 doors are a direct swap with the MJ :D

The Renix system runs in "open loop" at start up, and when it hits operating temperature, the ECU takes over and makes the necessary adjustments. This might sound odd.......but disconnect the negative battery terminal for about 20 minutes, and then re-connect it, and see it that don't help with the cold start ups and running. That's a normal thing to do with a OBD I & II systems, but I'm thinking that your New sensors might be holding residue voltage, and this will drop all voltage out and 'clear' them. Did you change out the O2 sensor???

2X's on Pulling it straight up.........really hard.......and brace your self when it lets go, you'll be surprised :eek:

:agree: For a crank and no start, the CPS is almost always the first item to check :brows: Here's the link for the check/replacement of the CPS (Near the bottom of the page) The first "trick" is to unplug / replug the connector, and just might get it started. Do the volt/ohms test first, and that will give you an idea where to go from there.

The the XJ fuel tank will not work on the MJ, as you already wrote. If your fuel pump and sending unit (Sender unit) is still in good shape, and all you need is the gas tank, www.raybuck.com carry a line of New gas tanks for both the lwb and the swb. And not too bad priced.

Yes, the air bags fit inside your existing coils, and if your check out the pdf file on the installation instructions , it will all play out for you- I was going to say that there 're-usable' from this truck, to your next truck, but, I guest that would be the same as upgrading the springs :hmm: The major advantage of this system, is when the plow is off, you don't compromise the ride that you have now. I would mount the plow first, drive it around and see how it feels, the front will drop an inch or two, and if your fine with that, run it. If you feel that the air bags will make a big difference, then install them ;) As far as upgrading the power steering pump, the stock pump is fine, I've run 2 different MJ's with my Snoway plow, and had no problems with the power steering. If your pressure line is leaking/dripping now......and it's 20 years old.....that I would change, Yes, you will be putting additional strain on the system. I assume the plow your getting is used........you have more of a chance of blowing out a hydraulic line on the rams, and that is much easier to change out with todays weather, than in 10* weather.......with a foot of snow on the ground (I know what that's like :roll: ) The biggest trick with any truck used for plowing is the tires, stock size tires work much better that wide tires, they will dig in, and bite the base, wide tires will float on top of the snow, and don't bite into the snow to the base. Also.......3-4 tube sands tossed into the back of the bed help keep the rear end down, and not floating around. So.......you don't get them 11-12" dumps down your way??? Ive had no problem pushing that much in one time, but I alway push in 4wd low, and with my manual, it's much better, when I was pushing with the automatic, I could use 4wd high. The auto make it easier for pushing, but I can do just fine with the manual too ;) So.......you'll get this all set up......and then you can't wait for it to snow.......and the first time your out there at 5am pushing the snow......you be sitting in the MJ waiting for the next snow storm :D

The best setup for what your doing is to add air bags inside the coils. I'm using one MJ for plowing now, and have a 2nd one that has the same setup, and that had a Myers 2 meter plow on it. Here's the link to what I'm talking about ;) The advantage to this is, you mount the plow, add some air pressure, do your thing, and when you take the plow off (about an added 260#) you release some air pressure, and it don't compromise the ride. Plus for the cost of the air bags, and the ease to install them, your way ahead :D Oh......and once you start plowing your own driveway........you'll find more to plow :brows:

:eek: It's alive :eek: Got to be the greatest feeling when it fires up and purrs :D :thumbsup: I'll go stand back in the corner now :popcorn:

That's just the voices you hear in your head. :teehee: Yea, I know........I'm alot of help :( The rear light harness connector is just inside the rear bumper, on the left side, BUT......that's also the ground for the rear lights, and the fuel pump/sender (the body ground that's behind the left tail light) I don't know if you have one of these.......so, here's one ;) From what your writing.......about the buzzing sound, you could have a bad relay that's stuck, that would cause a sound like you hear. If you know.......the EGR solenoid is mounted on the drivers side fender, just after the fuel pump Ballast resistor. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... lenoid.jpg I'm thinking you have a bad body ground, could even be the ground strap that's from the 'fire wall' to the engine, thinking that the EGR solenoid is grounded to the body, and the rear tail light/fuel pump is grounded thru the body. Also.......your backup lights........could be just the fuse, if you don't have This one......check it out. And.......for the Grounds Just paste that over, and noted that the firewall ground strap, is also the "Dash panel" ground.........So, a good place to start :brows: And.....you get a chance.......call me latter today :D

It depends on your location, but several other members have extra bench seats, I have 2 gray bench seat up here, and maybe more. Shipping would be cost prohibitive on a bench seat :cry:

As I was reading this......I was thinking the same thing, till I came to this :teehee: Yea, any time anyone want to try a new "used" ECU, drop me a line, I have a bunch of them sitting on the shelf for that reason. The chance of them going bad?? Slim to none......unless.....they get shorted out either internally or externally. But.......glad to hear you were able to find one locally ;)

With your '89 MJ, it's based on the Renix ECU system, which does not store any codes when turned off, so that every 'new' start is a 'fresh' start. Some have solved a 'long hard start' with replacing the CPS with a OEM (dealer) replacement that would feed the pulse quicker to the ECU. There is also a FSB on directly wiring the CPS to the ECU- http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... update.pdf As far as your turning radius, if some one installed a lift and after market wheels, they could have changed the stops on the axle to keep the tires from rubbing on the LCA, thus changing the turning radius. I don't think S10 or Ranger bench seats will work, there too narrow in width.

Don't panic just yet, do the adjustment as shown in that link, and see if it makes a difference. If your TV cable is not hooked up at all, or snapped......you normally can't get it shifted out of 2nd gear. You wrote that you just can't get it to "kick down" on the road, so, that just might mean the cable needs adjustment.

Here's about the best write up on this subject. If you found one broken line now.......you'll find more latter, so......replace all the hard lines now, and even the soft line (from the body to the axle) and save your self some grief latter on.

Yea, it sounds like your TV cable needs adjusting....... No, not the TV cable you watch, this one- Bottom half of the page And hopefully you didn't knock the cable off the cam when you changed the filter and fluid.