Wildman

Well........it hasn't been posted in a while.........so- http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/oi ... index.html

First of all, your looking for a '91 or a '92 MJ......and Yes, their somewhat rare, And if you found one, I don't think your going to find 2 in the same parking lot. What I've seen, is the uni-frame seams to rust out on the right side, just before the spring bracket, more likely from the heat from the cat/muffler super heating and then the cooling of the metal. An '88 I'm parting out now, the "frame" section is totally gone, and it's not worth the repair, thus......a parts vehicle. Plus the body panels, door bottoms and floor are.......well, just not all there. You write......"one issue that scares me a bit".....I wouldn't let it scare you at all, from what you describe, you have very little rust issue, of course......once you start cleaning it up I'm sure you would find additional rust :roll: But still........You would not have a major project to get the frame rail repaired. As far as additional info........try to find a FSM, that includes the "Body" or if your can, find the book "M.R.278" which was published in 1985 "Jeep Comanche" Workshop manual 'Bodywork', that will give you the details you need to see how the floor frame and sub frame were constructed. That would give you a better idea on how to make the repair, and tie it into the existing sub frame. Also.......one of my favored sites........http://www.autobodystore.com/......where there is a wealth of information there, and an open form for any questions. Just one thing.......Patching the frame is one thing......doing a proper repair, and adding additional steel to support and repair the rusted section would be the better of the two. Do a proper repair, and you'll get many more years from you "rare" find :D

Yes, if you don't have any oil in your air filter, that is a good sign that your engine is in good shape and the rings are not worn out. Also a good "check" when buying a used car.......check the air filter for oil residue. You still can experience 'blow-by' not showing up in the air filter, cause some one disconnected the CCV system, but you would see oil dumping out all over the top of the valve cover. I've seen used cars with "corks" stuck in where the CCV tubes should be.......tell sign that there's a problem. Oh......and we're talking about engines with high mileage......like over 100K+ on the clock, that's also a good sign to look for blow-by, (worn rings) And Thanks Pete for moving this :D

No Problem Don :yes: What worst, is dealing with the lower seat belt bolts in the rust belt :roll: And ya wonder why I buy 4 #50 torx socket at a time :(

Be best if you asked this in the Tech section. But......I'm sure Pete will move it ;) "Blow-by" is normally caused from the piston rings wearing out, and the 'oil pan' being pressurized. causing the pressure to escape to the easiest source, which is the CCV system (Crank Vent Circulating System) which ends up dumping oil into your air filter. There is really no additives to solve this problem. The only true 'fix' is an engine re-build, IE: re-bore the pistons bores, over sized pistons, and new over size rings. This is were you hear the term ".030 over" meaning the bore was re-bored at 30 thousands over stock bore.

Just find another vacuum reservoir from a JY. Doesn't have to be from a Jeep. Any will do. Or just ask in the classified if any one has an extra one :roll:

You have to take off the large B pillar trim to get to the take up reel. Take off the top seat belt support/holder for the shoulder belt, the interior light below that, and the plastic plug below the light, for the one screw holding the top of the trim piece. There are 3 speed nuts holding the trim to the back wall of the cab (behind the carpet pad if you have) and the B pillar should slip out. The you take the small filler plate out where the belt goes thru, and slip the upper shoulder belt support, and the lower belt section thru the slot. Then you can remove the B pillar trim piece out of the cab. There are 2 torx screws holding the take up reel on the side of the B pillar. Sounds easy.......don't it :D Off the top of my head......I'm thinking you need a #50 torx for all the screws.

What Mr. Hornbrod said is correct :thumbsup: I'm just too tired tonight to type that much :roll: If you 'built' one, and the fuel level was off, did you try bending the float arm to make the adjustment???? Or even replacing the the float with the MJ float and arm???

I know you've had this problem for some time........I thought you could swap the wires and it would work........Negative ground to a positive ground for the '91+ era :hmm: Any Yes Chico........I'm still doing the sender unit swaps :D And.......this shows the difference on the XJ and MJ sender units-

OH NO :eek: That means your truck was build on a Friday :eek: And the guy reached into the bin and grabbed a '87 harness and stuck it in on the way down the line. Who knows.......this is Jeep we're talking about......and the factory didn't waste anything, and didn't matter if things were miss-matched or not, as long as it ran, and got out the door. And as long as you can cross match things to get it working........your ahead of the game :brows:

That's what the "Green" wire in the 'how-to' is showing, and explaining. The switch would make the selection between which lights you have, and when the head lights are on High beam or low beam.

Here's the Fuse panel, Radio and cig lighter should be fuse #2.

You didn't give any details on the Jeep......So assuming this is a Renix era- The Clutch Hydraulic hose is - Aisin Transmission - RAYBESTOS Part # BH38938 = $28.79 Peugeot Transmission- RAYBESTOS Part # BH38935 = $31.79 ACDELCO Part # 18J1876 {#19111259} = $32.79 The above prices are from www.rockauto.com which should be able to deliver to the far North.

Here's a basic How-to for wiring the fog lights. There's no mention of the wire gauge, I would think 14 ga would be a good choice. Also, if you pull power out of the fuse box, your fog lights will turn off with the key off.

3/4" wrench fits the castle nut on the upper track bar mount (1/2" stud) Most of the problem is the "bushing" in the frame mount is worn oblong (egg shape) and is not available at the parts store, after market or junk yard. If you look back at the survey that Eagle did, this might not be your problem. It could be as simple as your tires causing the DW.

If it re-starts after a while, after it cools down, and you mentioned the stumble before it quit, I would think the fuel pump. If your doing alot of driving (not from your story) I would guest the ignition module. Getting hot and shutting down. Or.........Your MJ don't like Micky D's :teehee:

Oh... ok,, yeah you see how much I pay attention to it all.... Sure........the only voting your interested in is when Steph is in the running :razz:

I wonder why??? The previews have been on for the past 1-1/2 years :shake: Yea......it's a good week to take the TV in for it's annual cleaning, oil change and inspection :D

If you dump some "oil-dry" on the stains, and leave if for a few days, most all of the stain will be 'sucked' out of the concrete. Then, as a final wash, use orange clean, or purple power. I pick up 'oil-dry' at Sam's club for like $7 for 40# bag.

Yes, been catching the Olympic here and there, I missed the marathon and the Jeeps. Closing sermonizes are on right now ;) And.......tomorrow the US Olympics start in Denver :teehee:

And........if all the above suggestions don't help, check the EGR valve - http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/egrvalve.htm A bad EGR valve can cause rough idling. Just removing the vacuum line and plugging it will do a quick check for ya.

This kind of gives you an idea on the distributor break-down, and Yes, there is a gasket internally on the shaft. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... cement.htm

You should have This mount now for your BA-10- Don't throw it away, TeamCherokee get's $95 for one of those :eek: And what you'll need is a tranny mount for the AX-15 or AW4 - ANCHOR Part # 2625 with 4WD; Trans with MT, 4AT 4 WHEEL DRIVE 2 WHEEL DRIVE with RWD; Trans with MT, 4AT $13.69 From where else...........Rockauto

That write up from Go.Jeep is a really good ;) As an alternative to the freeze plugs, go this route - Expansion Plug much easier to install that the drive plugs.

Your money tree has not started yielding yet :eek: ........My money tree died :cry: Anywho........the BA10 has a vent, it is located on the passenger side, bracket is bolted to one of the tranny mounts, has 2 metal tubes that the rubber vent hoses hooks up to the BA10 and the 231 TC. You should see it just above the starter motor. If you blew a rear tranny seal, it would leak out the bottom of the connection between the BA10 and the 231. there is a small drain hole there. You might have "over filled" the BA10, and steady high speed driving forced the gear oil out the vent tube. You said the tranny made noise, until you add gear oil, Yes, it would do that, they make alot of noise when there running low/dry. If your not sure on filling the gear oil, the BA10 takes 4.9 Pints of oil on a dry refill (4wd). Normally you fill it until the oil comes out the fill hole, but this is not your case. Also, until your money tree starts producing, and with 195K on the drive train........well, yes, it's a pukegoat :roll: