Wildman

Heat gun on very low setting, to soften the adhesive, and a razor scraper to work the button off. isopropyl alcohol to clean the adhesive. And of course........pick up a mounting kit and follow the directions :D JT......he wants to raise it up from the current position.

So......I know Mr. Hornbrod was waiting for me to jump in........ Yes, the XJ had the "factory" option for the sun roof, that was adapted to the MJ also. The factory sunroof also had a drain tube on each side to help prevent the sunroof from leaking into the interior, with the tube running down the A pillar. 15" x 30" sunroof can be found Here. 17 x 17 His 'N' Hers sunroofs can be found Here. Drop me a PM with your zip and I can give you a quote on the above items. Of of the fleet of MJ's I have.........3 of them have sunroofs, and I like them :D

:hmm: I found it easier to remove the two torx bolts holding the back of the seat to the lower section of the bench, remove the back section, and then remove the 2, one each side of the tranny tunnel, seat belt female ends, and then pull the seat, with the ends in the lower section of the bench :dunno: A lot better than trying to feed the female ends thru the seat. For what your doing, it's easier to feed the bolt end of the female section thru the bench seat, and if you just remove the rear seat section, it will give you plenty of room to work on them bolts. Oh......and you'll need a #55 torx socket for the belt bolts......and have several on hand too if your in the rust belt......or even near it :roll:

To clean up just the wiring, you could use some spray on engine de-greaser, and wipe it off. For any connectors / terminals, you should use Contact Cleaner. That will blast any dirt / grease / debris from the connector, and evaporate quickly. Any connectors that you take apart, apply some dielectric grease to the fitting before you re-connect it. This is a possibility that your sock filter could be 'plugged up' with rust scale within the tank, here's a picture of the in-tank filter / pump / sending unit- One way to "test" the fuel pump is to disconnect it at the filter inlet, add a piece of fuel line to the input line, put the other end of the line into a empty gas can, and turn the key to "on", this will show you if the pump is running, and if it is 'spitting' and also will show you if possibility any debris are getting thru the pump. Run the pump for some time, to like pump a couple of gallons into the gas can. Of course........Use extreme caution when doing this. like do it outside, no cell phone to your ear, no chance of any sparks/pilot lights near by. This will also give you a chance to change the in-line fuel filter. Another question, that I don't know if it was asked........How fresh is the gas in the gas tank??? couple days old, couple weeks old, couple months old???? Gas only has a shelf life of a few weeks, unless stabilizer was added to the fuel in the tank......when it was fresh. As far as getting into the ignition control module, first from what you have been writing, it sounds more like a fuel issue your having problems with, start with that issue and solve the possibility's that is not an issue with your truck. Then you can back track to other issues that could be causing the 30 second run cycle that your having........it could be as simple as the ignition switch being bad, and cutting out, but from what your writing, it sounds like a fuel supply issue. Try that fuel pump test first, see what the fuel pump is doing, and if the fuel pump is not preforming right, or you don't have proper fuel pressure, then the pump is going, or plugged. K.I.S.S. If you want to, go to this Link Where Taz posted the FSM, and look up page 14-5, this will give you the info on the TBI system that you have on that 2.5. Basically, "TBI fuel pump controls - Voltage to operate the TBI fuel pump is supplied through the fuel pump relay when the relay is grounded by the Engine Electronic Control Unit (ECU)"

And........they named it after you JT.......... :D I like.......but, only down side to it, what more or less killed the MJ.........No rear storage, like with a super cap :(

2X's that.........gets rid of all the wasted time on the "Wholesale power seller's" :roll: Other wise, I've found some great deals on tools, and watch that shipping and over priced handling fee.

Yea, we all get frustrate at the stupid little things too.........But, we all got to be :nuts: owing these 20 year old trucks..........and there what, over 2,000 members here........ :doh: We still love the MJ's thought :D

It's kind of hard to say what you should do now................But........... If they clam they installed the shoes wrong, and it caused the drums to warp, then the shoes should also be replaced with new ones. The rotors should have never been turned, in fact, it cost about the same to turn a rotor as to the cost of a new one.........so if your having brake lock up in the front, have the 'turned' rotors replaced with new ones. I don't know any shops around me that will even turn rotors anymore, every one just replaces them with new ones. You could also have a problem with the calipers, and that should be checked out too, the calipers are only about $22 each. Get it to the point where your happy, when they get the job done, have the guy take a ride with you, and you can tell him if your happy or not. Then, when you get to the point where your happy, the next time you need the brake lines replaced or a wheel cylinder done...........find the time and do it your self :D If this is a local garage, and local guys, brakes are very basic item, and most any garage can do brakes........it's scary that the muffler shops also do brakes.........but :dunno:

Yes, I agree.........I read his question as try to get the column apart. The link I posted also shows the details on the ignition switch on the lower section of the column. :yes:

Post up some more info on the '92, like engine, tranny. If you disconnect the negative at the battery, and wait, then reconnect it, dose the starter take off on it's own, or do you need to turn the key??? If it takes off on it's own, then the solenoid is stuck in the open position. With these trucks, the starter and the solenoid are seprate, you can just replace the solenoid, that mounted to the starter for like $35, but the whole starter and solenoid are $85.......for the couple of $$........ :hmm: But as other have written........check your wires and connections first.

You should be able to remove the top heater hose (the highest point), and "burp" the system that way. Of course, do it when the engine is cold, and keep filling the radiator until the fluid come out the heater hose, then reconnect it. That's how I fill the closed system, and never had a problem, but I take it off the thermostat neck and when the fluid comes out the neck, stick the upper hose on, and done.

Here's a link to the down load pages.......... http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/Downloads.htm And it's a pdf file, the 14th one down from the top, under Electrical - Ignition Switch & Lock Cylinder servicing - 'Save' it to your desk top, and then open it from there........if you have pdf. It's like 12 pages long, it will give you a step by step to crack the steering column open and replace the ignition switch. But take note.......you should use a lock plate compressor to get to the switch.

The first thing I see is............ If the rotors were warped, you don't turn them, you replace them, cause you just got clean cut warped rotors put back on the truck. As you step on the brake peddle, you'll feel a thump, thump thru the peddle, and the pads will "grab" on the high spots of the warped rotor. For the $20+ for the rotors.........replace them. If the shoes were installed backwards, it's hard to believe that you would warp the drums in 130 miles :hmm: The only thing that would cause is the rear brakes would not "grab" just right, both when you hit the brake peddle, or when you apply the parking brake. The rear shoe has a "longer" brake surface to enact the forward motion of the vehicle. When they replaced the drums, you write...... Did you mean the shoes???? Cause the pads are on the front. If the drums got warped from the shoes (they clam) then the shoes should have be replaced too. ^^^See above about the warped rotors^^^ Generally, if a line brakes, it's a good time to 'rebuild' the entire brake hydraulic system (at least in my book) including new hard line, and soft lines, new wheel cylinders, New calipers, new rotors, new pads, new shoes, and New hardware kits. I know this can't always be done.....but why patch a line, and have another section blow out next week. Just this past Tuesday, I went to pull out the driveway, and I lost the brakes on my cube van :eek: I back into the driveway, and checked underneath........and the right rear wheel cylinder was blown out.......fluid dripping all over the inner tire :fs1: So, I limped it over to the shop, and ended up replacing both wheel cylinders.......and while that was all apart, toss in a new set of shoes and a hardware set (springs) the lines I replace about 2 years ago, and they were still in good shape.......and the wheel cylinders were also 2 years old (I don't buy Napa any more :roll: ) Just all the effort to pull the dullies off and get to the wheel cylinder, I did a complete job while I was at it. Lost a day of work, but had the rear brakes redone for less than $80 :D I would prefer you to just Like me.........OK :roll:

:rotf:

According to the M.R.278 book, the Curb Weight (base vehicle) is 3093 lbs. And that would be a '86 lwb (of course) 2.5, 2wd manual (base Vehicle) So, add on the 4.0, 4wd, 231, and the weight will climb up there. Take into account what JT wrote, with the 4.0, and 3/4 tank of fuel..........if my algebra is correct..........JT's weight is approximately.........172.6 pounds.

Isn't there another forum you can haunt instead of replying to every single topic here? And possibly think a little bit before you do respond? And try spell checker too. :D I think you should go work on your Clamero......... you know i was starting to like you but now i see what type of a person you are. :no: I'll have to back Mr. Hornbrod here..........not just in your case, but in others, you do add some important info here, and in the subjects your experienced in, same as what I contribute here, I only respond to the subjects that I have knowledge and experiences in, and If I'm wrong........Eagle will call me out. You'll never see me respond to a "lift" question, cause I don't know anything about lifts. It kind of keeps the unnecessary chatter down :D So........when you guys get done in the 'time out' room, I hope other's will use the "Preview" button first before they hit the "Submit" botton :yes:

Randy in Maine brings up a good point.........I aways forget the stupid fuel pressure regulator :doh: This could be your case..........again, do a pressure check at the fuel rail, and that will point you into a direction for the repair. And just for giggles............Here's the Mr. Lunghd How-to on testing the fuel pressure system :brows: If you don't want to spent $$$ on the fuel pressure tester, your parts store, like Advance, or what ever has a 'leave a deposit' on the tool, and use it, return it for a full refund :yes: Great way to go for that once in a life time tool use.

I don't know it that would help or harm the tranny.........seam like 10W30 would be a little too light for the manual transmission :hmm:

Hehe........I was just thinking of this the other day........and I know we discussed this one other time.......and I'll say the 4.0 weights in at 650 pounds.........I'm not going to say if that's with all the accessory's or not, but I know it's not some light weight. I'm looking forward to pulling one this weekend if I get some time :roll:

That's what I was wondering if you were just looking to replace the entire intermittent shaft, or just the u-joints. I have a couple of intermittent shafts here, and I'm sure other's closer to you have some, or your corner Junk yard........like I said, I could look up the part # of the U-joints, but I never seen them listed on any parts site. Dealer only part :dunno: I just checked the parts CD, and there is no listing for the u-joints, just the lower (intermittent) shaft, and the only difference is the power steering or manual steering. :hmm:

After I re-read this.......this morning........I see you have a '89 2.5. A lot of our responses are based on the 4.0, and that will be similar to your 2.5. Your correct that the fuel pump ground is behind the left tail light. But, then I notice that you said the battery was so-so??? Do you need to "jump" the battery to get the truck running??? With all the 'electronics' in the Renix system, the battery needs to be strong to "run" the truck. If your battery or alternator is bad, or going, or there is a loose wire/connection between the two, this could be causing your problem. Even the corroded/loose connections at the battery posts could be causing this. So........from the pictures you posted.........Nice find for the price you paid :thumbsup: Now, we just need to get you up and running so you can enjoy your fine MJ :D

I'll agree that adjusting the set screw on the steering box is a "just fix until the new one arrives" But your original question was, how to remove/replace the steering shaft, correct? The steering intermediate shaft is held in place with a collar type fitting, that has a screw going thru a notch in both the steering column end shaft, and the steering box input shaft. The steering column must be removed, or backed off to allow the intermediate shaft to "slip" off the end, then the shaft can be pulled back from the steering box. Also, I have never seen a replacement u-joint for the intermediate shaft, not saying it could not be found, just any parts source I've checked, don't list a part number :dunno: If you can attempt to re-build your original steering box, I'll commend you, cause a "re-man" steering box is in the $180+ range :doh:

No......it ended on the 28th, last Friday, and it was shipped on Monday.

This is a picture of the ballast resistor, it's located on the drivers side fender, just behind the air filter box, your looking for a heavy gauge orange wire w/black tracer. Theres a good chance the PO removed the ballast resistor, you did mention that you have a '89, correct?? Causes, '87 did not have the resistor. That's the first thing to check for the problems that your writing about. From there, you need to get it some place and start checking other sensors, This is a good source for checking all the sensors on the Renix. When you can, do check the fuel pressure at the rail, it should be around 31psi, from the hard starting and 30 seconds quit, it could be the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump itself.

Well........after 2 years of chasing, bidding, missing out on one :grrrr: :peek: I laid low and grabbed this One up :yes: Sorry for who ever was bidding against me on this one.........but better luck next time :teehee: Oh.......and the coin hit my mail box yesterday :jump: