Wildman

Your more than likely hearing the relays click on and the fuel pump running :D If it's a really loud "buzzing" sound, your fuel pump could be on it's way south :(

Nice find :thumbsup: It even has AC :D But I don't remember a CD player as a OEM option :hmm: Oh......and don't worry about the clear coat pealing.......it's very common for the Jeep's :roll: The MAIN thing is.........It's Rust Free!!!! :yes:

:doh: Worked for me :D Now I can speed right to the off links :typing: Thanks for the tip :thumbsup: And yea, I'll running Firefox :brows:

I got to remember this........the next time you need a left tail light :rotfl2: Nice score phenryiv :thumbsup: I gotta learn to watch what I type again now that Wildman is done working 80 hour weeks... :cheers: :teehee: :peek: phenryiv........just hang on to them for now.......by next year the really good tail light will be bringing in $400 :banana: I know my stash of tail lights will be worth something.......some day :roll:

Yes, some of the rubber is sticking out of the pulley, but would that cause a whine while accelerating? There is no whine while stopped and stepping on the gas. Yes, if any amount of the Rubber "bushing" is sticking out, that would cause the whining noise, you should hear it Parked, and just hit the throttle cable, as the RPM's increase, even louder as the engine is under 'load' (IE: in gear) About now many miles you have on this engine???

That Reminds me of a girl I once dated :doh: The warmer she got.........the more she whinnied :shake: So....... Your only hearing this 'sound' when your under acceleration???? First guest is to check your Harmonic balancer :hmm: See if any of the "Rubber" is coming out of the front of the pulley, that's a sure sign that the harmonic balancer is "coming apart" and causing the noise. Check that out first, and get back with what you found ;)

I got to remember this........the next time you need a left tail light :rotfl2: Nice score phenryiv :thumbsup:

I don't think Snap Fish supports IMG file code. Your just better off setting up a Free account at Photobucket and be done with it :D

:agree: A '92 Metric ton :brows: Glad you posted that up, I like the chrome grill........now you just need the chrome mirrors :D

Ya yes........it's always the simple little things........sometimes :hmm: Oh......and you can't feed dumb, that's in one of the rules posted up there^ :clapping:

Finding body parts is.......well....... :nuts: Your best source is the junk yard :D No one's mentioned this place, yet........Shermans Here's another site that "might" have some parts......Mills If your willing to learn........made your own parts, it's not that hard, and for some tips, check out his site........http://www.autobodystore.com/ For the price of a piece of sheet metal ($26) you can make alot of body parts out of one sheet :bowdown: Most of the on line 'stores' use the same layout from Keystone, and it's hit and miss at it's best.......if you can set up an account at Keystone or Continental they might be able to track down some parts for you :dunno:

mfpdm did a complete write up in the DIY section - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8093&hilit=seats&start=0 And yes.........Buckets are much better than the bench seat :D If you read the write up, you'll find that XJ seats, with your existing bench seat bracket, with a little work, will work out for you.

I measured a MJ, D35 I got laying in the shop today, and came up with this - 42-3/8" c/c on the perches. From backing plate hub / to center of perch - 6-1/4" (both sides) From housing flange to center of perch - 14-1/4" drivers side , 12-11/16" Pass side.

:agree: It's not worth messing with an old radiator, that's one thing that just not worth the time and trouble to replace twice :roll: Check out http://www.rockauto.com - PROLIANCE Part # 432268 {#78} $87.79 VISTEON Part # 9178 $100.89 with AC W/O AC SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # CU78 {#78} $106.79 There are some better 3 core radiator out there too. And you can take you old one in for scrap and get $10-$15 for it :brows:

Did you ever do a fuel pressure test??? You already changed out just about every sensor in the engine bay ;) But did you ever check the fuel pressure regulator??? See JT's write up......Here

Yea......your right........What Resale :doh: You talking about this Big business????

The FSM is about the best "Book" you can get......not just for replacing the seals and gaskets, but for everything. This site has alot of info on gasket and seal replacements.......with color pictures too :D http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/index.htm And scroll down about 3/4 of the page and you'll find = Service and repair items Also http://www.lunghd.com/ Has metric tons of info :ack: After you go thru and replace all the 20 year old seals and gaskets, I think you'll get a better feel on how un-destructive the 4.0 really is, oh, and repair some of the ccv system, these engines don't need a rebuilt every 80K :brows:

You know........I've heard about this 30+ years ago.......yea, it dose help, but just don't let the DEC know your doing it :D I'm sure there are many other products on the shelf that can do a better job than the oil dripping all over........and on the resale end......how do you explain all the "oil leeks" :dunno:

That was a great video :thumbsup: Now your going to have to check out the 3 point hitch implements at Tractor Supply :teehee:

Can you have more that One??? Well.......some of you know......and alot don't......but I've been 'collecting' MJ's for the past 3-4 years........got into this bind after I bought my first one 7 years ago :oops: And to make WahooSteeler happy.......well, almost......cause I couldn't get them all in one line..... Yesterday made for #10 brought home :roll: Not counting the 3 that I've had to Part (with) in the shop (on shelfs) :roll: So......I present- So there's 10 MJ's (in 2 rows) '86 - '90 and couple XJ's throw in the mix ;) That is my collection to date :doh: And before you ask, Yes, One (the one with the plow lights) is on the road (my 2nd DD) and the rest are for parts, in the process of parts, or whole and in need of restoration :roll: If time allows this spring.......a couple will be brought out of the snow banks and will be finished projects :D

:yes: Yea, that's what it means :rotf:

The DIY that mfpdm wrote up is Here You should find the info you need in that ;) And This was posted just last week.

Yea.......I'm thinking timing too with the backfiring :hmm: There is a "Cam Positioning Sensor" too - You can find the info Here Unless........ Your MJ is jealous at you for buying that XJ :rotf:

:agree: There is no "Frame repair Kit" There are so many variables that any frame repair needs to be "custom" made. Also, you need to conciser the extent of the rust. The 'uni-body / frame" of the MJ is not that well thought out, the front section of the uni-body is 3-4 pieces of 14 gauge sheet metal, bent to shape, and spot welded together :nuts: Mileage is not a factor.......It's age, these trucks are 20+ years old, and if over it's life time was parked over ground (dirt) the metal just sucks the moister out of the ground and along with the metal eating termites, and the poor things suffers total destruction :( I've had to 'put down' a '87 with 67K on the clock, because the frame was totally rotted out, but the drive train lives on :D I have a '88 with 112 on the clock, that a 3 foot section of uni-frame is not even there anymore........and one I'm picking up this morning, a '90 with 84K on the clock, the spring perches are wedged up into the frame, to the under side of the box :eek: I don't like to die sect these MJ's, but within the rust belt that I'm in, the only feasible way to save the MJ's is to make there hard to find, out of production, parts live on in other usable MJ's. The right thing to do in your case, is to consider the extent of the rust in the "frame" and have a Good frame, welding shop, put it up on a lift, and see if it's repairable, and if so, have the shop do the repair.......unless you have experience in welding and the proper equipment.

Generally what your describing is........'A lack of power from a standing start' First thing that comes to mind.......is the Catalytic Converter. A plugged cat will cause 'extreme' back pressure. This could also be your "exhaust leak" problem. Too much back pressure......needs to find a easier vent. It could also be as simple as the exhaust down pipe is restrictive, either bend, or crushed, and for the $26 part.......might be worth "fixing" Might be worth double checking........are they the right plugs???? Are the wires in the right firing order??? Are the plugs gapped correctly?? On the far scale of your problem.........are the brakes locking up?? Like a bad caliper, holding pressure after you let off on the pedal?? Is the torque converter shot, robbing engine power?? And last note........how fresh is the gas in the tank???? If you just got this, how long did it sit, and when was the last time you put fresh fuel in the (empty, cleaned out) tank. Also, check/change the fuel filter, and if you can, do a fuel pressure check.