Wildman

That's the jack I posted in the first "This" HF has that one on sale for $59 at times :brows: I've used mine for trannys, axles, and even supporting doors, it can do more than just one job, and with a 1/2" speed wrench, becomes the third hand at times. I think Eagle made a good point, with trying to get the tranny back in, not aligned and forcing it, could very well have bent the fingers on the presser plate :hmm:

Low Voltage my @$$. I like the HV stuff better. :D Ah......your just being modest :D You love this Low Volt DC stuff better than any one else on this board :bowdown: :teehee:

Yea, I've done like 3- 302 engine swaps, and a couple of C6's. But........they were all in Ford vans :D I've never put a 302 in a Jeep, cause they belong in a Ford :roll: And vans are a PITA to work on, 1/2 inside, 1/2 out front, and 1/2 the work underneath :headpop: If your close to me, I have a '89 EFI Reman 302 with less than 20K on it, truck got totaled about 2 years after the engine swap :( It's been parked for the last 6 years looking for a new home. The thing I would look for in a 302 is from a van or 4wd, cause the oil pan drop is in the rear to clear the axle, about the same as the 4.0 engine.

Paging Dr. Hornbrod............. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6898&hilit=clock We'll let the Low Voltage Doctor Handel this one :D

I forget :oops: Didn't you just find some replacement sockets??? If you did.........What did you find......like part number/make???

Yea......and one of them can koozies :D But charge him $19.95 shipping and handling :rotf:

I know........I seen this last night :roll: Well......your arrangement of tools and equipment is......well........lacking a few things. What your really need is something like This. You can get by with One of these. I didn't see if your 2wd or 4wd, but the tranny it's self weights about 65 pounds, and with the X-case about 110 pounds. Plus you need to "hold" it in place to line it up and get the bolts started and tighten. Once you take off the tranny cross member, the tranny will drop like a lead anchor plus the engine will drop down with it. You need to support the tranny in fact, lift it up a bit to take the cross member off, and then unbolt it from the engine, and you should have some support on the rear of the engine, other wise, you can run the fan blades into the radiator. I guest no one answered your question, cause, the problem your having to begin with, and the lack of tools and equipment, is this something you really want to handle :dunno: here's a "movie" for you to watch on how a clutch works.....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0njT2FY ... annel_page And.........here's kind of a how to......http://www.automedia.com/Clutch_Replace ... 020701cd/1 One pointer.......Check your flywheel, if it has hot spots, replace it, you can not get a 4.0 flywheel re-surfaced, it has a concave grind to it, and is not machinable.

Checking the grounds will not solve the problem of the fuse blowing out, the fuse burns out from an over load, or a dead short. With your left turn single indicator staying on in the dash, is a sure sign of a burn out bulb or a bad lamp socket, and with the head light switch on, and the indicator staying on, I'll bet you have a bad left front turn socket. The lamp is both turn and parking lamp. If you get to the parts store, look in the Help section for a Ford socket, that's the closest one available for the MJ's. I think JT just change his out a few weeks ago, and there is a write up some where on which wire to match up. But...... all Black wires are grounds. Parking lamps are dark blue Left turn is Gray Right turn is Brown All wires are 18 ga. And don't for get the dielectric grease in the new sockets, with new lamps :brows:

First of all.......checking fuses is.....OK, Replacing the fuse with a new one is better.......I've several times fixed the problem with a new fuse, the old one burned out on the side, and not able to tell just by looking at it.(yea, and my eyes are bad too) Second........#12 (15 amp fuse) covers the Hazard flasher, stop lamp switch. Note that the fuse feeds the hazard flasher to the brake switch, then to the connector behind the left kick panel, to feed the rear lights. Its odd that your hazards will work, and not the stop lights :hmm: Try switching the flashers and see if that solves the problem, if is does, replace the flasher with a new HD flasher unit. Other wise, you did check all the right things.......so far. Your turns will work because there feed separately thru the turn signal flasher. I guest you fixed this, as I was typing the above........oh well......I'll leave it here :D

That might be a tough one :hmm: If the big box stores don't carry that........then the only source might be...... http://www.apwagner.com/ and, no they don't have a store around the corner from you.......they do for me :D and this is the place that even the "Sears" repairman goes to :yes:

Not to stay on this :rant: The point is........this is not the first time someone "Jump" in here, posted up their "Business" like a hungry Used Car Salesman, and then never followed up with there posts. I know you got alot of scanning to do everyday, I don't even have the time to get thru all the new post everyday :oops: But, with a general posting limit set, before classified adds can be posted, this would not happen, and it would cut down on your work load everyday. For that "one" guy that has the one rare part, looking for the target audience, let them post up on E-bay or Craigslist, and you know, a regular supporting member here will find it, and let others know about it, I can find 3 posts this morning all leading back to Craigslist for rare MJ parts and vehicles. Your right on setting rules, and there are not alot of rules to follow here, things runs smooth with out too many rules, But.......how many of the "new" posters even read the 'posting rules' :hmm: I have no Idea what you send the newbies when they join, you know........"Welcome to the CC........Read the posting rules?? Don't post junk adds in your first post?? Spammer are not allow (only in the classified section) ??? :dunno: JT, ME, Others, are just trying to keep things clean here, and have no problems with the new members (or old members for that matter :roll: ) We're just fed up with the people jumping in here, and trying to make a quick buck on a 'super rare Red '89 swb, 2wd, MJ and only asking $7k, must be sold this week, come with $$$ in hand (and a trailer, cause it don't run) type adds. And that's the first, and in most cases there only post. I could mention a couple of "past" members that don't show up here any more, cause I've bought there MJ from them........I didn't chase them away, I just caused them not to come here anymore for the info they needed, cause I've got there "interest" sitting in the herd :roll: I've bought and sold alot of parts (and MJ's) thru the classifieds adds, and even chased down some 1-2 posters on there MJ's, and that always seam to be a bust, and yea, I've gone thru the "well.......this other guy offered me $5 more than you did......and well......" And I know enough to walk away, and let them have there fun playing that game. I'm done with my

So........What started JT's :rant: I guest this guy is just out fishing............for business........ Seen how this popped up on our local Craigslist :roll: http://buffalo.craigslist.org/pts/1107400918.html Yup, same guy who has 15 MJ's for parts (course that other tread is locked ;) ) So........JT........you want to say something.........Like..........I told you so.

:yes:

Isn't this a repetitive thread of the repetitive thread :hmm: :doh:

I had to pick the last one on the list :teehee:

Yea, hit the back corner of the pan with a dead blow hammer, crosswise, that should help brake the seal. The you can get a pry bar behind the mounting lip, and 'gently' pry down, all the way around until it Pops free. Remember, there is still alot a fluid in the pan, even after draining it :eek: If your dropping the pan completely, hope you have better luck getting the dip stick tube apart at the 2 piece tube connection.

Man :eek: ..........where you guys getting all this mileage from???? I think the most miles rolled up on an MJ in my herd is 126K, the lowest one I've found had a whopping 67K on it. Of course, that one had such a bad rot problem, that it had to be put down :( Maybe that's why I'm finding MJ's with 100k and the frame gone too........Dang metal eating termites up here :fs1:

Any chance to get a picture of this, or a sight that shows it? Thanks again. For the O2 sensor?? And for all Renix sensors-Renix sensors For the EMT-

I don't think you would need a hydraulic nut splitter :shake: Just a $10 nut splitter from sears, the parts store or what every all work the same. Yea, there are cheap ones out there, and really expensive ones (Snap-on) but for how many times a day are you going to use it?? I've used a cold chisel on a lot of nuts to split them off before, as long as there is room to swing the hammer. I'll agree with Dirty.......even a cheap angle grinder with a zip wheel will do alot of work before you brake a sweat, and it will work on both side of the bolt, the nut side or the head side if you need to.

There mounted on the base of the exhaust manifold, just below the EGR tube. When you get a replacement, make sure you get the 3 wire (Heated) O2 sensor. And the price is closer to $50 for them now :shake: Also, after you replace it, your "Check Engine" lite might still stay lit. You need to remove the Emission Maintenance Timer, mounted on the dash, right of the steering column, you can just unplug it and leave it there, or remove it, and don't bother replacing it, if you can even find one. It only has one purpose, to tell you to replace the O2 sensor, at 82,500 miles :roll:

BigD.......maybe a meet and greet in Ripley???? :D

I would not re-install the plastic shield, it does nothing but trap dirt and moister between it and the gas tank. Plus you have no way to keep an eye on the condition of the gas tank. You should use some type of insulator between the straps and the tank, even if it's like foam tape, trying to keep the two metals from rubbing together, and having moister trapped between the two pieces. If you want your new tank to last for ever..........try some of This.

Check your PM's JT :D

Roger that.. :thumbsup: Who's Roger???? :hmm:

Yea, tomorrow.......getting too late tonight :(