Wildman

here's the "test" and change out for the Cam Position sensor (ignition pickup)- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... Stator.htm

That's the sender DR.Thunder modified, by the way, I think. Calling Dr. Wildman, please post or report to surgery in Room 6 stat. Room 6??????? I thought I was in room 4, where the Tan couch is kept :hmm: Ah, yea........PM me your shipping info, and I'll give you the info, I got a couple sender units on the shelf now, and I'll check them out and ship one to you, BUT......I request your old one back for the surgery to be preformed on it for some one else down the road :yes: I did have a write up on what I do, but I couldn't find it :dunno:

If the body and frame are rust free, yea, bring it home with ya on Thursday :yes: But.......I'd offer him a firm $350 because of the paper work issue........maybe go up to $400 tops, and if he don't bite........walk away from it.

I don't want to go off in another direction in Boilermaker's topic. I too "use" to use the same method for parts and payment.........until last October, when I drop shipped 2 Brand New CRL rear sliders to two different buyers......One paid me for the slider in February (after some chasing), and the other buyer still has not paid :shake: and yes, I keep making contact, and keep hearing this and that........so, unless it's someone in the past whom I can deal with, and you all know who you are, it's parts are paid for before I ship it out now. I had to give up my "ole school" practice because of a couple bad buyers :roll: Boilermaker - you have some "good" contact from where the "sender" lives, use them, and the guy will craw under a rock for some time.

A VIN would clear it up pretty fast. But I guarantee that if it came down to that, it'll probably have an 86 VIN on a later body and he'll claim "They registered it as an 86 even though it really was an 85, it's for the DMV's sake". Or it'll have an 85 XJ VIN and he'll say "They weren't officially producing comanches at that point, so they registered them as cherokees". Dirty.........I'll agree with ya on that one :yes: Can you spell.........."Uni-body swap" :hmm:

So.......I take it your "friends" don't ask to borrow your tools??? I know, I wouldn't even ask if a Shepard was sitting next to the tools :roll:

Came across this on another web board. It's a video on the Longevity Arc/Tig/Plasma cutting unit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDdzTGyoAzg This is for someone looking for a all purpose welder :roll:

{Wildman taking notes here :typing: on what to do with a dead beat buyer :hmm: }

Now that is one classy picture :yes: :rotfl2: :rotf: :clapping: A BIG congrats on your new family member :thumbsup:

Yea, I have a couple sets of XJ roof racks, plus I have a swb bed liner thats under mount already :brows: Well I will be traveling in a Sebring convertible. Can probably do the rails, but the bed liner might be too much :D . You need to add this stuff up so I know how much cash to bring! Thats easy, put the top down on the convertible, and we'll flip the bed liner up side down and you'll have a "new" top to ride home with.........easy problem solved :D

Yea, I have a couple sets of XJ roof racks, plus I have a swb bed liner thats under mount already :brows:

Why not leave the bed liner over rail, and screw the XJ runners over the top of the bed liner. into the top inside of the bed :hmm:

If you have a hard time finding any, let me know..........I just might have a few laying around :roll: Plus, something you asked me for last year is just starting to come back in season, and I still plan on making good on my word from last year :D I could make up one big ole box and have one delivery to you ;)

I've cleaned up and painted a couple gas tanks using this product with good (low cost) results - http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=36 I know Por 15 makes a gas tank "kit", that I have not tried yet.

Yes, there not handed. Also the door checks from 84-01 will work, all the same bolt pattern, but the checks from '96+ are more heavy duty than the older units.

Yea, good to hear that just the clutch disk solved your problems :D

As far as just replacing the clutch disk, that's not a problem, I've got 3 years and 15K miles on mine with just the disk replaced. The flywheel on a 4.0 can not be re-ground, it has a concave grind to the face from the OEM, I don't know 2.5's enough to even guest on that one. Some 2.5 experts can answer that question.

All kinds on flea-bay....... http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid ... Categories

They open one about 2 miles up the road from me, still have not been in there, way too many local "bar's" with there own brand of WINGS around here :D

Pictures..........(after I cleaned up the battery thermals :roll: )

You need to get up to about 90-110psi to run a impact gun. Ive seen other run air tools off CO tanks, and knew of a trimmer that used a CO tank to run nail guns. But with the cost of refilling the CO today........a small compressor is more of a value. If you up grade your regulator you could run the impact gun off the tank.

:fs1: :headpop: :shake: :shake: :shake: :wall: :yes:

I think your best option is to find a good tranny shop, pull the tranny your self and deliver it to the shop for a re-built. Swapping over to an manual with the 2.8 is going to be a tough find for the bell housing alone. Plus theres more to it than just swapping out the pedals and cutting a hole, like Geonovast noted, the drive shaft needs to be changed,

The clutch chatter you write about from a dead stop is caused from "heat spots" on the flywheel. I too have been dealing with this for 3 years because I opt out not to replace the flywheel :doh: And, No, the fly wheel should NOT be re-ground, it Must be replaced with new. Another thing to consider is the fluid line from the master cyl to the slave, it's part steel, part rubber, and any time you replace a slave or master, for the $18 part, it's a good cheap replacement item. 20 year old rubber lines are not like new lines, they swell up and collapse.

And for future reference......... http://www.raybuck.com