Wildman

Here a picture of a Renix sender unit. The sending unit looks a little different that the one you posted from the HO unit :hmm: If you need a better picture, let me know.

:shake: Trying to figure out which one is dumber :hmm: the one firing......or the one taking it :doh:

You said in your 3rd post- :hmm: The ballast resistor will be "warm" to the touch, kind of the reason it's make out of ceramic material, reduce voltage flow = heat. If it gets really Hot, then it's time to replace it. If the truck started and ran after you by-passed it, again, then it's shot.

OW :eek: That was not a good idea :no: If the transfer case was set in Neutral, that would have been OK, but not with just the tranny set in neutral. Well.......the AW4 is a good hard tranny, hope for the best that it's OK.

JT.......... I found that new mini van that you promised Steph.............. And it kind of fits in this topic :D Check It Out And he saids........something about the front doors don't open :hmm:

Or your fuel pump is getting ready to retire...... .......if you let it "cool" off, and then you can re-start and run.......the pump is getting "hot" and ceasing up, shutting off the fuel flow. If you can, do a fuel pressure check first, and see if the pressure drops off before the engine quits.

It's not that were "non-believers" it's just most of us have never seen the O-ring where you say it is, and there is no part listing for it :roll: :popcorn:

Oh........me wrong then :doh: I looked at it really quick, and though it was for the rear mounts :oops: I have some rear bumper mounts in the shop, if you need to trace the frame, it would be easier to trace the brackets, that are loose and sitting on the shelf :roll: Let me know, and I'll do this for you........to make up for my mistake :oops: I can make a tracing of the brackets and send you the paper tracings, drop me you addie via a PM and I'll get it out in a day or two.

The axle will bolt right up. But......for the D30, the rotors and calipers are different, from '91+. Just make sure the gearing is what you want too.

Here found this for you = viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13613&hilit=rear+bumper+brackets 2nd post down has the template.

So.......reading thru all this........ Thinking about all the mods you did to your MJ......... .........and how your "Testing" the latest problem...... ........going into the alley, doing a burn out. Now, you don't think that's going to torque your rear axle with the what........5 inch lift in the back (SOA)????? Pushing the drive shaft forward, pushing the tranny/engine forward........and where is the fan going to go :dunno: How much "slip" do you have in the drive shaft/X-case?? Don't you think, that doing a burn out would "flex" the springs/lift to the forward motion??? When the truck is just sitting, not running........how much room do you have between the fan blades and the radiator??

Take a trip to a 3rd world county and you will see just how good we do have it :thumbsup: I've been to Tennessee............does that count :hmm:

Yea, I'll agree with that :D In Go-Jeep's pictures, the "orange" don't go all the way around the tube. It's been a couple years since I've been inside a D30, and what I found was only the axle seals at the carrier :dunno:

Third world country :hmm: That's how I feel some days with some of the Contractors I've worked for over the years :rant: :rotf: But, yes, Most of us have it a lot better that people of the 3rd world :D

Yea, I thought that's what you were looking for :hmm: OK.......I check my master parts list, and I don't see any part, or number for the "orange" or Black seals. I guest the best thing is to size them up with some calipers and just get some O-rings to match. Other wise just replace the axle seals, and hope for the best. Sorry no big help here :(

this is true, there's a balance some where. but the pirates goal is not destroying the ship, its stealing the cargo isn't it? NO, there goal is to extort the ship owners out of $$$$$ for "safe" return of the ship, cargo, and crew. There is alot of back ground info on this subject, and one ship and crew have been held "hostage" since October..........so, in the long run........this is old news, with just some "updates" of the past week. What the Pirates have done, is to raise the cost of shipping in that area up to the point than the receivers of the cargo have to pay more for the shipping cost, like in the insurance costs and the other costs in running the ships in a longer direction. If you follow up on what the whole setup is, there are only a few "pirates" that make the large sums of $$$......the "retired" fishermen that are the pirates out at sea, receive only a few thousand dollars for there part, and the the fat cats back on land reel in the wealth of it all. The amazing thing of the past week is.......this is the first "American" that had been taken off his ship and held as a hostage since like 1804. The end results were well placed. :thumbsup: Now that I've "fueled" a political topic, I will back down and :peek:

You posted........ Are you talking about the "seals"??? There are no O-rings inside the axle, there are Seals. Here, check this out, to see if were on the same page- http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoD30AxlesSeals.htm

Hey.........I represent that........ :no: And I would never go to the left coast for a MJ. Unless it was brought to me :D Don't worry.......thats way out of my price range........and it has no rust on it :shake:

No wonder you had so much trouble, that's three halfs!!! :idea: :D Yea.......tell me about it :headpop: The last van I did the engine in, I took the doors off.......got tired of walking around them :D :agree: Perfect explanation of the 351 family :thumbsup: 351W's, which are mostly found on Ford trucks, aways in a van. C's and M's are found on cars. And your right, there are some trucks with the 351M in them. Any 302 or 351W from a van or 4wd would work the best because of the rear oil pan sump. But there would be a ton of extra work to get the thing set up and running in the MJ......Me, I'll stick to swapping out a 4.0 for a 4.0.

JT..... Check your PM :D

No, but I will in the morning........kind of late now for scanning :( I'll follow up on all the relevant pages that fall in this group :D

Did you replace the fluid line??? If you did, it could be a bad slave. Did you use a OEM slave cylinder???

Yea, This but, for a few $$ more, I like to keep the floor jack freed up for supporting the engine :brows:

If you ever take a trip to Niagara Falls.......I'm on the way :D

Yeah, that's the simple version. But ... it ain't that simple. There's a bypass involved. The ballast resistor is in the circuit when the engine is running, and when the key is first turned on, to run the fuel pump and bring the system up to pressure. When the key is turrned to START, the ballast resistor is bypassed and a more or less parallel circuit sends full 12 volts to the fuel pump during starting. Once you release the key and it's back in the RUN position, the bypass is de-energized and the circuit again goes through the ballast resistor. Yeah some sort of bypass for sure.. And like you said I'm pretty certain the resistor runs parallel to the relay, but I think the resistor isnt ever by-passed, but always flowing power to pump, I think its the start-up 12 volts that switches off leaving the resistor flowing from ECU power source. But thats just what I get from crossing alot of years wiring diagrams, and I'm still not 100% certain thats the way it works out.. Your right JT :bowdown: I just went back and looked up B12 splice{Page 9} (14OR/BK) and that comes from the starter Relay, forcing the full 12v to the pump, at the B1 splice, then letting the ballast resistor run the pump after the start up, from the Fuel Pump Relay.