Wildman

:agree: There called "external" torx {Star} bolts (screws) and you need a set like This Also, the one on the right side hold the dip stick/filler tube, once you remove that bolt, you can pull the top section of the filler tube out, And if you have not realized yet, the bottom section of the filler tube is welded to the pan :doh:

He is doing a front axle, so this does not apply ;) :cheers: jpdocdave is correct, there is a C-clip on the intermittent shaft, at the carrier. in the D30 (front axle) I can't remember if the center pin has to be removed to get to the clip or not :hmm:

Now that's what I like to hear..........There is still a big demand for the MJ :yes:

No, I wouldn't say that, the panel is not just behind the dash, it's enclosed, and the only access is thru the cowl. Although, that might be your case, to open up the inner side of this panel to access it. I'll post up some pictures for you, and give you an idea what it looks like behind the dash. This 3 hours difference is getting to me now.......it's past my bed time ya know :roll:

Oh yea, Thats the easiest way to pull then :D First one I pulled, I took the tranny off :fs1: Ever one after that, I pulled the engine with the tranny and transfer bolted together. I know your dealing with a 2.5, but, a 4.0 with an AW4 and NP231 bolted together is 6'-7" long :eek: I got the thing half way out, and had to push the truck out the shop door to finish pulling it........ran out of room in the shop :rotfl2: Now I got a bigger shop, so thats not a problem anymore :brows: Just unhook everything, like fuel lines, and wire harness's and support the tranny, remove the cross member and tranny mount. Take off the entire front end, header panel, radiator support, loosen up the engine mounts off the frame, and of course a few other odds and ends, and the real trick is to have a leveler on the hoist, drop the tranny down and pull away :D Yea, salt does its tole on us around here, but, there are still some good solid MJ's in this area.

I know your rust area in not near the radio. I said the wiper motor sits in a panel, that goes across the fire wall, from inner fender to inner fender, inside the fire wall, inside the inner cowl panel. I got a MJ half tore apart, with the dash out, I'll take some pictures tomorrow and you'll see where I'm going with this. You will not get to this panel from removing the outer fenders. It's inside the cab. The only access is from the "top" where the wiper motor and connecting arms sit.

No, most of the time, the guy just wants it gone........and I come along :D I had one guy last August, that I talked to on the phone, drove out to his place, over an hour away :roll: and took one look at it :eek: it was buried behind several piles of junk, and waited half hour for him to dig it out, and what a rot box, thing was totally rotted, and it was sitting inside a barn :eek: Even the gas tank was rotted off the thing, it was a 2.5, 4 speed, 2wd, even the tail lights were cracked :shake: He wanted $350 for it. So, I offered the guy $250 for what was left, and he said, Nope, I can haul it to the city for scrap and get $350 for it, so I told him I'd help him load it on his trailer, for the hour and half trip to the city, and I ended up leaving empty handed.......and glad to too :D Most of the ones I find have rotted frames, but the parts are there for other projects Or I find non-running MJ's, and of course, pay the "lower" price :D I found a couple that the guy thought it was a rare one of a kind, only 10 made in the whole world, and he want some far out price, and when asked when was the last time he went threw it and change the 20 year old seals, his response was......Oh, it's all original :shake:

Yea, the wiper motor sits over the radio, But the entire panel is there for the wiper arms. It might be a good time to pull the cowl, wiper motor, and replace the link bushings in the wiper arms, and check for rust / holes, and sitting water up in that panel :hmm: Oh......and to help you along..........http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Body/Wiper.htm

If your have found some XY's in your area that would be the best engine swap to replace your 2.8, and a little searching will find you some additional info that can help you decide. Like this topic - http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... =2&t=12551 Or this one, more like what you have- http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ?f=2&t=656 The real ticket is to get the entire XJ, and transplant every wire, sensor, cooling system over to the MJ, including the dash, or at least the interior wire harness. Swapping in a 4.0 power train is way less painful that any other option. Plus, that gives you an option to go to the '91+ HO engine. Then that gives you some choices on what you want for the tranny, like AW4 or AX15.

Yea, when I fist started reading your post........and the "donor" MJ......... :eek: But then I read about the frame being rotted :doh: I got 2 MJ's here now that have the same problem.........and the only solution is to make them donors for other projects, both mine, and others :D And I only live about 40 miles from the salt mine :fs1: It's kind like finding a good horse, only to find out it's got a broken leg :( That donor you found have some much "wanted" items on it.........so that's a really good find. Good luck with your transplant project..........I'll keep an eye on it :thumbsup:

I don't think I would admit using the screen name of "missjulie78" :roll: Even as a joke :oops: :rotfl2:

So......last week was $131 pair of tail light......this week.......well look for yourself....... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &viewitem= http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... &viewitem= :shake: My extras are going into the safe deposit box now :rotf:

:agree: Last November, I was on a job, 65 miles from home, the stater died on my cube van, I called the store that I alway deal with, told the manger what the problem was, and that I bought the "life time" starter about 1-1/2 years earlier, He call the closest store to where I was, about 5 miles away, told them it was a warranty replacement, they had their driver bring it out to the job I was on, and when the driver showed up, I gave him the old one, and had the new one in hand, with no money changing hands. And.......this was on a Saturday afternoon :eek: So, yea, I do most of my business with Advance, that alone is why I stay loyal to them. What other "discount parts store" would do that :dunno:

I must be missing the boat here on this E-85 stuff..........there only 1 stations in this whole area that even sell the stuff.......we're all Dino fuel around here :hmm: Even with an ethanol plant near by, all there "product" gets shipped to Jersey. Oh course, we also have the highest prices on gas in the country :rant:

No, you can re-use the stock MJ gas tank, and sending unit, and fuel lines up to the frame mounted fuel filter. What you need to do, is change the in tank fuel pump, and you can use the donors (XJ 4.0) fuel pump, in place of the MJ's 2.5 fuel pump. This it the only difference between the 2 engines, is the psi of the fuel pumps. The MJ's sending unit will work, because your donor is a Renix era electrical system. Everything else that was stated is true, radiator support, radiator, hood latch, and you might even want to swap over the hood itself. Also, the engine mounts will need to be changed. The tranny mount will need to be changed. The complete engine bay harness, and the dash harness will need to be changed, along with all the senors, and ECU. You didn't state if both of these were 2wd or 4wd?? You'll need to have the rear drive shaft shorten if your switching from manual to auto. The brake pedal assembly also need to be swapped out, from the manual to the auto. In a nut shell.......every little part from the XJ's 4.0 will need to be transfered over to the MJ. The most important thing is......you have the vehicle there with you, so the swap will go smooth. The only snag you'll run into is the interior harness, leading to the rear, that needs to be spliced in to the correct MJ wires. An easy way of doing the interior harness is, if the donor's dash is in good shape, swap the entire dash over, it's a direct bolt in, and all the connectors are plug and play.

I got busy today........

Yea, I seen that..........I think I'm going to start storing my extra sets in a Safe Deposit Box. Or at least hide them better :roll:

Advance were able to go back 2 years on any item that had a warranty on it in there system, with just your phone number. I like going in there after 4 years +, with my receipt and getting the "lifetime" warranty replacement :D

Just stay away from Swine's and you wouldn't catch it :yes:

Double check with the return to Advance, most all there items are 30-90 days, plus. They have always been good when I return items, warranty, not happy with, or just not used. Course I drop enough $$$ there every month :roll:

The only thing that it would really do is not run up the mileage on the odometer, and not show your land speed..........be a great excuse to get out of a speeding ticket......like " I don't know how fast I'm going " :dunno: :brows: Here, I brought up the page, try this- http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,1440

I did not want to 'imply' any thing about posting on that "older" tread :hmm: I just link it over to your topic to show some examples that we all discussed before. Feel free to continue here :D

That is true, looking at a stock MJ or XJ, the stock fan only covers about 1/2 of the radiator surface, and the electrical fan (Option) cover about 1/2 of the surface of the radiator. Using both fans would help if your in the "warm" belt.

The only bed that is "close" to fitting the swb is the Ranger step side. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14889&hilit=comanranger Or here.......

Air in the line / master would not do that. More like a faulty slave from the get-go :( You can compress air, but hydraulics apply high "pressure"