Wildman

Well......why didn't you say so :eek: Yea, I got your number........and the same meeting place??? Only this time.......what other parts you need so we don't make this a "every 2 week meet and greet" I don't think we can get breakfast at the meeting place.......well we can.....but it would be different :rotfl2: I'm not trying to break someone else's deal here, but that why I wrote what I did, we went thru this last year, and with out mentioning other names, like people that bought me breakfast :roll: I'm just saying that shipping a used gas tank is a real problem. And the size of the package runs the shipping price up. I'm going to back away from this now, and not take someone's deal away :doh: Oh......and yes, I have a SWB gas tank, with a skid plate too, if you want, and a LWB tank in storage :roll:

:drool: This must be the only thing CA is good for.......finding D44 :headpop:

Well.......we can solve that :D You can join under my business account.......and BJ's to if you want :banana: Course........I prefer BJ's over Sam's, but they just don't handle alot of the auto supples :( I know......... :offtopic: :doh:

I'll just say......... This is a very Amiable cause :thumbsup: I'm glad that you, and others are involved in a cause like this one :D On my part........I'm way too far from your site to help out in any way :( Having worked on many projects for the disable / challenged, I understand what is needed for the people affect, to enjoy the comforts of there own home. We don't have a "hats off" emoticon.........so just place one here for your self :yes:

:cheers:

Yup......sounds like a fuel pump problem...... I should have posted this for you, there are 2 steps to follow on testing the fuel pressure, one with the pressure regulator connected, and the 2nd with it dis-connected. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Fue ... ostics.htm Also, it might be worth to pull the fuel pump first to see if the supply line is intact, and also check if the sock filter is plugged up.........your having kind of a range of pressures on your test. Also, do the ballast resistor by-pass to see if that changes the range of your pressure tests.

For shipping???? Last time I check it's not so much the weight......maybe 22 pounds, it's the size of the 'package' and with out getting into the "shipping hazardous materials" it was around $65 :eek: And that was the slowest truck route available, for a 230 mile trip. We ended up meeting half way and exchanging parts :D And I got breakfast out of the trip :yes: Don't know it that will work for you..........but the size of the package runs the shipping price up.

Another reason to use pre-mixed coolant :D I mix my own coolant,, I can get a gallon of distilled water from wallyworld for .67 bucks!! The mix was somewhere around 7 bucks,, the non mix was 10, so the better deal is me mixing it + it lets me play chemist.. :yes: Well.......I'm not disagreeing with any one on this........but........ I stop in Sam's Club (Wally World's big brother) and pick up Prestone on the shelf, pre-mixed 50/50 for like $5.67 /gallon, get 6 at a time, and just pour and go :D At one time I used full strength and rain water.......then read up that the best option was the pre-mix, so I'll not play chemist, and get-er-done. I agree that at the parts store, you can pay more for 50/50, like if Advance don't have it on sale.......and I once laughed at the guy at the counter at a Napa, cause he wanted $10 /gallon for 50/50.

But I've dropped the tranny down as far as I can......5-6" :D The bolts are a "shoulder" type bolt, I got some loose ones, and need to get to Fastenal to find out what size and stock # they are :hmm:

True :yes: :rotfl2:

Another reason to use pre-mixed coolant :D

There is a switch on the right fender, under the pressure bottle, behind the heater blower that has a vacuum line to it from the transfer case switch (to the CAD) this switch "sticks" and has a wire that feeds the 4wd lite in the dash, my one was alway on, and I disconnected the wire so the light don't light at all any more........do I know the truck is in 4wd......yea, I can feel it. The replacement switch is like $40+ if you want to go that route.

Really sounds like a fuel pump problem.........get the fuel pressure test, but that might not show the real problem.........like the pump is putting out 39 psi at the time of the test.....and as it get warmed up, running for some time, starts to fail (I had that problem on a Ford - let it sit for 15 minutes and it would run fine, after the pump 'cooled' off) Another member here had a similar problem, and found the pump supply tube in the tank had split and was leaking inside the tank and not delivering the proper pressure/flow. Might be worth the time to pull the in tank pump, and check out the supply tubes, the sock filter, or even change the pump. Also, run the check on the ballast resistor, by jumping the wires and see if this is causing the fuel pump to not operate correctly. Another item that will cause what your describing is the catalytic converter, a "plugged" cat will create so much 'back pressure' that it will rob the power right out of the engine, and this is a item that will run fine one time, and the next time it will feel like someone stuck a potato in your exhaust pipe. You know.......fuel / air in.......and no place to go :doh: You didn't post the mileage on the truck, but even with these "20 year old trucks" things start to fail :headpop: Next thought........O2 sensor..... :hmm: The CAM-shaft position sensor could also be causing a problem with the erratic ignition. Your just going to have to spend some time on checking one thing at a time, and see if that clears up your problem.

Me thinks some one did this last fall.......and mounted lights on the cross bar :hmm:

Yes, up to '90 or '91 was the change over. ERRR NO! A D35 is a non c-clip axle upto mid 1989, than it went to c-clips (if you have an '89 the only way to tell is to pull the cover). So a 1987 D35 does NOT have c-clips. You right.......Me wrong......too early this morning :oops: '90 was the change over to the "C" clip :oops:

Super easy........if I remember right, just a bunch of sheet metal screws into the roof panel :D

:idea: JT......you done did it again :D Yea......'86 and '87 had the long prop rod that laid across the upper radiator support. But then.........while you have the hood propped open.....then you can check the emissions tag :roll:

Looks like your missing the return spring in you foot assembly :hmm: What ever you do......save the pull handle, I know some people looking for that part :brows: And they don't exist in any parts stores anymore :(

Well......for future reference....... http://www.raybuck.com

Common oil leaks on the 4.0 (Renix and HO's) are the valve cover, which you changed, but did you spend the little extra for the neoprene gasket??? Rear main seal. Oil filter adapter. Oil pan gasket. Timing chain cover / harmonic balancer seal. Your oil filter O-rings could be shot and the oil is being blown back to the transmission, as an example.

:agree: with the rest of the group. You might want to hang on to your frame damaged MJ just a little bit to see what you can find :roll: As Mvusse wrote, you will not like the 2.5 after screaming all over town with the 4.0 :brows: And right now......you have the perfect vehicle for a 4.0 transplant :D If you can pick up the one you seen for $300 - 500, then you have a deal.

Yes, the windshield is "glued" to the body with Urethane adhesive, and the trim, either the metal or the gasket is applied over the glass. What your looking for is the '94-'99 one piece gasket, This Even though is said top and sides, it is in fact a one piece that covers the bottom, sides and top of the windshield. If your having a new windshield installed, ask the glass shop to install the gasket, some prefer this over the metal trim. And CRL has a Canada :Canadaflag: outlet so you should not have a problem getting it, down here in the 48 the gasket runs about $26USD :D I don't think a use one from the junk yard would be a big cost savings :shake:

Yes, up to '90 or '91 was the change over.

That's it... :thumbsup: A little more like that - "Moe - Ugh" = Moog [Well....at least up north, that's how we pronounce it ;) ]

The fuel pump is in the tank, internally, and the tank is on the left (drivers) side, right along the drive shaft / transmission, so the fuel pump noise would radiant up thru the tranny tunnel. The started solenoid will only be "activated" when you turn the key to the 'start' position. Disconnecting it will not do anything to stop the clicking noise. You could also be hearing the "key in lock" buzzer under the dash, but it's on its way out and only making a small buzzing sound :hmm: