Wildman

Here's a quick run down on the NYS inspection requirements - http://www.nysdmv.com/broch/c-50.htm Ain't nodda on the sun visors :shake:

Yea......I've been running roadrunner turbo for almost 4 years now........and would not change it for anything else :yes: Is it worth the extra $$$....... Hell yea :D

Well......this is NY state :roll: I don't think the sun visors is an issue. I think he notice it after the fact.......and is feeding you a line ;) We do have a "seat belt" check up here, the seat belts in the front seat must be functional. And the parking brake (emergency) must work, and hold the vehicle. And any "box" truck over 8'-6" to 18' must have a cross view rear mirror......or back up camera, aka the "UPS law" :rotfl2: But the sun visor "rule" :dunno: We do have a 'few' convertibles up here (for the few warm, sunny days).......and I don't know what they do for the sun visors. Give the guy a pair of Sunny Florida 'blue blockers' and call it good :D The good thing is.........the car is pre '96, so there is no emission test required on it.

Yea........I'll 2nd Taz on that one. Check this out, top of the page..... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm The the other thing I was thinking..........was the EGR valve :hmm:

Don't need to Taz.......... There's something in place where the "other" badge was...... :rotf: You missed that picture :D

Yea......same here...... Seams to take a long time for a page to load.........almost to the 'timed' out point and I'm running turbo cable :hmm:

Yes, the topic is Right Here But I lost the pictures :eek: So, I reloaded them Here :D

And you need to click on the "link options" under the picture, and click on 'Clickable thumbnail' or 'full size' under IMG for bulletin boards & forums.

It's a lot of work.......but do-able. Check THIS out from the DIY posting.

I would also check your Catalytic Converter for being "plugged" The way your describing the "lack of Power", that's almost a tail-tell-sign that the cat is plugged up. And as you wrote, about the weather getting warmer........the hotter the cat gets, the more restricted it becomes. Just for giggles.......post how many miles you have on the MJ.

And........for a little more 'detailed' info - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... -Rings.htm

Welcome to the world of Jeeps :teehee: Question.......when you disconnect the battery, and then re-connect it, dose the starter still engage, or do you need to turn the key to start??? Off the top of me head........I would think the starter relay is hanging up, applying current to the starter to engage it. and when you disconnect the battery, your "breaking" the current flow, and letting the relay "re-set" A quick check, disconnect the wires from the I and G terminals, measure the resistance with an ohmmeter, this should be 22 ohms. Measure the resistance between either terminal and the battery negative post, resistance should be infinite. If defective, replace the relay. This is info from the FSM (electrical) The other possibility would be the ignition switch is hanging up, the switch is mounted at the bottom of the steering column. But you say, when you disconnect the battery, it goes back to normal operation.

Well.......the U-joints are the easiest thing to change out first. Just reusing your old ones on the "new" yoke could be making the noise too, generally, when you replace something like, the rear axle, you also change out the 2 drive shaft U-joints. Could be just the slight change of angle that there running at now, thats causing the added noise. If you got this rear axle from Twisty, then I wouldn't worry about it, he knows his stuff, and would know if the bearings were bad or not :yes: No, the outboard bearings are not re-packable, they need to be pressed off, and pressed back on the axle shaft, along with new outer / inner seals :(

For a "quick" check on the drive shaft U-joints.......Get the truck going around 35-40mph down the road, and take your foot off the gas pedal, that will take the tort force off the drive train, and you will "feel" the slop in the U-joints. Also any vibrations at this speed range will lead to a bad U-joint (or an unbalanced drive shaft) Got me a couple of vehicles over the years cheap with this test :brows: From you description......."the "roaring/whirring" noise" It sounds more like a bad axle bearing :hmm: You said you swapped out the axle?? Did you go thru it and check the bearings and seals?? It could be a bad Pinion bearing, or outboard bearing (which is more likely, cause there packed, and become dry over time) As far as bearings / U-joints.........China has been making 'our' bearings since before the 50's, so to buy bearing with 'China' stamped on them, you can find this on OEM bearings. I prefer the grease able U-joints, and I know alot of new vehicles come without grease fittings, I'll take the grease able any time over the permanent greased fittings ;) Never hurts to give the U-joints a shot of grease every once in a while to drive out any moister picked up in them.

Like I've said before............ Anytime you want to "borrow" a complete MJ to figure out where all the parts go back togetter ..............just ask :teehee: And aemsee is correct, there steering column supports that go to the left side, above the parking brake assembly. Oh.......and if you end up with a box of extra parts........then you did good on the re-assemble :thumbsup:

The ignition switch is actually on the base of the steering column, here's a link to a zip file to the complete steering column / ignition switch- http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... Switch.zip Also, if your truck is an automatic, check the NSS to make sure that's not all gunked up, jumping the solenoid, with the truck in gear, could cause a problem :eek:

Gasoline has a "shelf" life of about 2-3 weeks.........so if your running gas that's almost a year old...........and didn't put any sta-bil in it at the fresh state........it's bad gas, run it out, or replace it.......adding fresh gas to the tank will not help at all. Plus with all the sitting time, I'm sure you picked up moister in the gas tank that's not helping at all.

WOW :eek: :eek: :eek: I didn't think anyone would miss me :hmm: Yes.....the day job got me overwhelmed.....and ended up working long days, and even shorter nights :fs1: But......now that job is done......and I'm playing catch up with other jobs that got put off......and still going full steam for a few more weeks.....then I'll have some extra time to catch up back here......... And.......I hope to get some time to get some MJ projects worked on :banana: Of course........I picked the worst, coldest January to work out side everyday in for like 48 years.......Just my luck :D But I'm thawing out now :thumbsup: I got like 500 post to read too :doh: .......so give me some time, and I'll get back into the swing of things. JT.......Yea.......after this one.......the retirement is looking better :D

haha. I got another one.... of the two, who do you think would win?; Bert, or Ernie? :rotf: Thats easy.. Bert would smack Ernie around and call him Susan... :rotfl2: :clapping:

Yes, I seen your dogs sleeping pictures........after I posted here. All our snow (white Christmas) is gone. Now the major flooding is taking place :eek: And........we'll turn this tread back to mvusse for his "travel photos" :yes:

There is no difference between the auto and manual starter for the 4.0 engine. The 4.0 and 2.5 starters are different. There all Mitsubishi based starters. And.........The cross check- for the 4.0- AMERICAN MOTORS 1988 EAGLE JEEP 1987 - 1998 CHEROKEE. 1988 J20 1987 - 1992 COMANCHE. 1987 - 1990 WAGONEER 1993 - 1998 GRAND CHEROKEE. 1988 - 1991 GRAND WAGONEER 1988 - 1995 WRANGLER. 1997 - 1998 WRANGLER. 1988 J10 It's a pretty common, widely used starter.

Speaking of which............the only pictures you show us on your 2 week "out to lunch" trip is a oil slick in the back yard...........I know, wrong thread........how about some of them nice warm Georgia pictures on your tread for us guys stuck up here in the snow belt????? Marcel........just wait, and it will melt........saves time shoveling :D Course it might be a couple of months :roll:

Yes, your parking brake box could be shot, but it sounds like the wheel cables are frozen up (with rust) If you do craw under neath, pull on each wheel cable and see if it moves, if there frozen up, then there way too much tension on the main cable that's not letting the foot pedal lock in.

Yea.......glad to hear you made your trip with out too much trouble :roll: You still see snow up there, all ours melted the past couple days with the 'heat' wave :D

And NO........I didn't forget about the Rhubarb, just out of season when you asked for it, and after going to 4 places, I gave up..........but come spring, I'll make it up to you, and you'll have some for next year :thumbsup: