Wildman

Yes......while you got it a part, that's the time to do the clutch, you'll hate me latter if you put it all together and the in 2 weeks the old clutch blows out. That.....plus, the BA10 clutch/pressure plate don't fix the AX15. HERE'S a link to a place in your backyard :D Other's have links to good clutch suppliers too. The bottom line is, you'll have a much better transmission, the external slave, and a brand new clutch all ready to go

Every thing Pete said :brows: And Here's a little "How-to" I booked marked years ago :D But......you Need to get a new clutch kit for the AX-15, your BA10 clutch will not work.

Kind of fits the sign it's parked under :teehee:

Tahoe = Full size pick-up??? You should have no problems towing with a full size pick-up, Rule of thumb is the tow vehicle being larger/heavier than the towed vehicle. Just give your self some extra time for braking.......that tow dolly and vehicle have no problems pushing you down the road when you need to stop. Putting the non-running/moving MJ on the dolly could be a problem, But you could "winch" it up the ramps with a come-a-long, although, 2 of us pushed a MJ on the dolly......easier with a winch :roll: And just to be sure, it wouldn't hurt to take the rear drive shaft off the MJ while it's being towed. And I hope this don't turn into another 4 pages on towing :roll: And if you get the dolly from U-haul, pay the extra $5 for the ($5K) insurance that covers your tow vehicle, and the towed vehicle, and the dolly. Other wise......that's a nice find for the $$$. Even if you just changed out the BA10, it's still a good find......better than the $400 running rust bucket I just picked up :roll: If you were "closer" to me.....I have a couple of 2wd BA10's, a 2wd AX5, and a 2wd AW4 sitting in the shop :roll: Can't seam to get rid of the 2wd's.

You can just click on the X on the far right side of the header = "delete" You can just click on the X on the far right side of the header = "delete" You can just click on the X on the far right side of the header = "delete" Just busting you Pat :D Man....good thing you didn't cut the gas line with the plasma cutter :eek:

This is the only place I've seen new ones, pricey, but they stock them. http://www.teamcherokee.com/Weatherstrip/index.html

Go to this LINK, under "Electrical" there a PDF file or a ZIP file that you can down load, and there are about 50 pages that will take you thru the entire steering column.

More than likely, your rear brake shoes need adjusting. The self adjusters do not alway do their job :cry: Here's a link, and follow Steps 15-18, and with your shoes adjusted properly, your parking brake should work.

I just checked the price on the clips, CP774711, and there $18 / Box of 100 (18 cents each) I don't know how that compares to the e-bay pricing. Guest next time I place an order, I'll add a box to the list ;)

I'll send you the info where the royalty checks go to :D

If you start at the top, corner, and work from the glass to the metal, and slide the tool along, you'll feel the clip, and sliding the tool along, you'll un-hook the clip, once you get a couple loose, you can slide the molding off the rest of the clips, and then work down the sides, and the bottom last, also the bottom is 2 pieces. Once you get the "hook" of the job, the molding will come off real easy.

That video shows a metal molding clip, the Jeep uses a plastic molding clip, like These You can just "gently" pry off the molding, and re-use the clips, the plastic clips are locked into a "stud" around the glass and most are "stuck" into the urethane sealant. Yes, This tool makes it easier, and you should be able to pick one up at a auto parts store.

The Bosch pump is the OEM. Drop me a PM and I'll fix you up on the pump unit :D I think you found the real leak......under the center strap. Oh......and some thing came to my front (shop) door this weekend, and there's something sticking out the rear that's got your name on it :D

Explanation, please? The sending unit is a float on an arm, and two push-on spade connectors. There are no supply tubes or any other kind of tubes on the sending unit. Are you perhaps referring to the fuel pump? True, The whole unit is referred as = 'Fuel Pump/Gauge Sender Unit' The Sender unit consists of the Fuel Pump, Gauge unit and Gauge Float, and the outlet / return supply lines. The gauge unit has one wire, body common ground to the bracket, the fuel pump has two wires, one 12vdc supply, one ground back to the mounting bolt/common ground on the bracket. Only 2 wires, of different gauge, enter the gas tank, the common ground is soldered to the top of the unit mount, O-ring and lock ring "holding" the Fuel pump/gauge sender unit in place. So to be brief, one calls this "item" the "Sending Unit". Not much different that calling the "Engine Speed Sensor" a CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) Same item, same function, one common reference to the item. The Original Poster wrote - {Under Topic - 'Fuel Sending Unit'} And with the lack of information supplied, I assumed that he was referring to the 'Fuel Pump/Gauge Sender Unit' and I assumed that he had a problem with the supply/return tubes rodding and leaking, which has been my experience's here, in the heavy used salt belt. Also has been the problem of couple other members here, that I sent out re-paired units too. If the original poster has detailed his exact problem, I would have answered in a different manner, such as he was having problems with the fuel gauge reading aways full, or the fuel pump was not providing proper fuel pressure, or intermediate running/stalling, and Would have referred him to check the ballast resistor perhaps. So, I guest I should have waited for further information on the problem, or have asked for additional details on what the original poster's problem was, and directed him to provide more details, before I installed my statement that you requested me for an explanation.

True - And from what I understand, they were "Dealer" install accessories. There also installation instructions in the FSM for all of the "optional" accessories.

Chico - Read the past post and I explain how I do them :D I've done like 3-4 of them, and so far, it works :brows:

chicofuentes0224 - said it all, Chrysler dis-continued making the sending unit in 1992 or '93, they don't exist and any shelf / parts bin / warehouse. j88p - I bet your problem is the supply tubes have rotted off the sending unit, this is a very common problem. I have re-build a couple with this problem, I just sent one out last week and I'm waiting for the "core" to come back to re-built that one. When that one comes in, and I have the time, I'll re-build that one and have it available. Also, you need to make sure your fuel pump is the correct pump, there is a difference between the 2.5 and the 4.0 engine. The pumps you can buy thru the auto parts store, and most of the pumps I've see are the Bosch pumps. If you do replace the sending unit / pump / fuel level, make sure you install a new sock (pick up filter) and a new O-ring at the tank lock. I'll see if I can find the post from just a couple weeks ago - Here's The Topic How come this subject comes up ever month :hmm:

I did find one :D Looked thru about 10, and the last one.......Here a picture of it, but I didn't take a picture of the connector :cry: so......either my parts list is wrong......or I'm going :nuts: And when I removed this, I wrote '88, 4.0, BA10 on the ECM. So, what ever you want to do, drop me a PM and we'll take it from there.

This is the gas tank with Rustolume Cold Process Galvanizing, done over 2 years ago......I'm not worried about it. Guest I should have done the straps too :roll:

:hmm: I searched '81-'93, 5k pages and could not come up with that number :dunno: What your saying is, you have a 5300 5226 microprocessor and what my parts list calls for is a 5300 5407 for a '88 w/manual transmission. The only thing I can think of, is to go thru the pile of ECM in the shop, and see if that number shows up......I got all the #'s to take with me. Yea.......I think so :???: Yea.......they all are = Renix ;) If the 3 screws were still in the bracket, then it could be factory installed?? I guest the next question is........what's wrong with your ECM now??? Footnote: I cross checked a couple supply houses, came up with this- Cardon # 792858 Picture here Niefoff # 5300 5429 Standard # 5300 5429

From the Parts List - It's showing different part numbers for the pump, bracket, hoses and pulley, So I would say......NO, wouldn't work. Your correct......the steering gear (box) is the same.

Yea......if I get time today, I can craw under the truck and get a shot....I'll also check if it can go over primer, should say on the can :dunno: I like it for the high Zinc content, and less subject to gas wash off.

Yea.....good luck trying to find him :roll:

That sounds like good advice :D But the skid plate is different from the plastic cover you had on your tank. It mounts below and around the outside of the gas tank, not touching it. Plus it sounds like you got your tank changed today ;)

Those "bolts" are zip screws into the bottom of the box supports, and they just spin out, I had to zip wheel them off when I fixed the gas tank, and replaced them with Tex-screws (self drilling / self tapping) I also used Rustolum Cold Process Galvanizing to "paint" my tank, after a good wire wheeling and it's held up great from 2 years ago.