Wildman

Then you would need the #5300 5407 ECM. The ECM is mounted behind the dash, just above the gas pedal, to the right, like behind the heater controls, you can pull it out, by removing a screw and slide it down, to un-hook the connector, with out removing the dash. It will be the big silver colored box, about 6' x 8' x 1". Drop me a PM with your shipping info, and a fair offer......and I'll ship one out to you ;)

Basically, the ECU controls the air-fuel mixture and ignition timing. The ECU receives input from the O2 sensor , coolant sensor, MAP, CPS, battery voltage, intake manifold air temperature (MAT), engine knock, and transmission gear selection. Ya know.......just a couple of things :???: Here's a link to get you started - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Fue ... ostics.htm And with in that link is the 100page tech-manual (PDF file) And you know......it could be just something very Simple that's causing it to run rich :D

If your have a '88, 4.0, manual transmission, the ECM would be a #5300 5407. The Number will be in very bold print on the unit. You didn't say what engine you have :dunno: And I don't have any 2.5 ECM. The only difference on the ECM's is the 2.5 or 4.0, Manual or Automatic, and of course - '87-88 and '89-90.

Here, the link is fixed ;) 88 MJ link Super clean, 200k, lot of parts needed, repairs........Yea, not worth the $$ he has it started at.....could be why there no bids :roll:

That's your back up lights switch :brows:

If I read that correct....your asking what.....the short wheel base drive shaft from a 2wd to fit a 4wd???? There are different length rear drive shafts, for the 2wd and the 4wd. The 2wd transmission has a longer tail shaft (output) and the 4wd has the transfer case. Also, the D44 axle will be 1 inch shorter drive shaft that the D35 axle drive shaft. If your donor has the same rear axle (D35) and is a short wheel base, then the rear drive shaft will fit. And this is based on a stock (No lift) MJ. The XJ rear drive shaft will not work.....it's too short. Other's will tell you too......the best thing is to measure what length drive shaft you need, when you get it all set up, and have the 2wd drive shaft cut down, yoke re-welded, and re-balanced.

I don't have any "Broken" ECM's but I have a few of the different ones, which one do you need??? Year and Auto or Manual?? Or the last 4 digits.

That's the best way to do a 2wd - to - 4wd conversion ;) As you'll find in the other articles and topics on the CC, there are a lot of "little parts" that are needed, like the T-case linkage, longer speed-o cable, and vacuum lines. Also having the donor at hand, you'll know where what goes where ;) What you'll pay at a JY for a transfer case, you'll get the whole truck, and XJ's make the best donors. Plus you'll get all the little extras that you might need, like new door trim panels. Then when you're done.......couple of bucks for the scrap :brows: And selling the left over parts here. About the only thing you'll need is a rear drive shaft made to finish up the project, unless you can find one on here. As other's said, if you plan on any type of lift, nows the time to do it.

If you have been driving XXX miles before you changed the track bar and frame bracket, and bad LCA (And yes, you should had changed out both, cause that's why some one gave you both :roll: ) the tires have developed a "pattern" from the mis-alignment, and MUST be changed / rotated. With the track bar problem, axle off center, you have been dog tracking down the road, and the tires should show edge wear to that effect. More in the rear tires than the front......if I got that right. As simple as switching the fronts - to - rears could solve the problem, and on the other hand, the tires them selves could be bad (which was my case in my only experience with DW) or out of balance. As you pull the tires off, inspect them for cupping (bad shocks), edge wear (bad toe-in) missing wheel weight and 'reading' the tires for what could be the next repair, Or spring the bank and invest in some new tires ;) J = Just E = Empty E = Every P = Pocket Now you know why it's spelled JEEP, bet you wondered how that name came about :D

Yea.....find some one with super long skinny arms :teehee: Seriously.......I've changed a couple, and found taking off the transmission cross member at the frame and dropping the transmission (and T-case) works the best. Gives you better access to the CPS bolts, and you can see what your doing too. That and a couple long extensions, and using magnetic inserts in the socket, so you DON'T drop a bolt into the bell housing.......that's real trouble there. If you have a lot of oil on the under side of the engine / transmission, you might want to clean that off first. If you go this route, when you drop the transmission, keep an eye on the fan blades so they don't hit the radiator. I go this route, cause I got short fat arms :cry:

:banana:

:D No Problem :thumbsup: Now you do need to order the hat :brows: And 21mpg......that's good for the automatic, I didn't check my mpg this trip, but now I got to check it, should be about that......I didn't push it on the way back ;)

If you had the paper work, you would have read in there that for the brake in period, you should put your head in the dryer, on high heat, and count how many times the drum turns for the 20 minute cycle ;) :shake:

I remember seeing that in the Haney's manual, it need something like 250 pounds of pressure to "reset" the switch.

They are external, on the front of the axle, about 3-4 inches in from the yoke. if there not froze up, you can adjust the extrema turns. There just a bolt taped into the axle. Adjusting the drag link should not affect the stops.

Had to dig real deep.......but I found the posts- http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... ring+wheel Yes, it's the drag link that center's up the steering wheel And good luck on that pile of parts :D

This will run you thru the CPS test, near the bottom of the page - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Ignition coil - Check primary and secondary resistance with ohmmeter. The primary resistance should be 0.4 to 0.8 ohms maximum. Secondary resistance should be 2500 to 4000 ohms maximum. ICM- Check voltage between terminals A and B using voltmeter. With ignition ON and starter engaged (cranking) voltage should be minimum of 9.5 volts. If voltage is low, check continuity of ICM and ECU ground wires. But, if you parked this all winter.......try the WD-40 trick with the distributor cap, or replace the cap and wires.

Yes.......The cap is part of the 'uni-body' The frame of the MJ starts behind the cab. But I follow what you want to do, remove the cab, "bend" the forward section to make a "hitch" for the trailer. After cutting up a couple of 'rotted' out MJ's, there really is not much strength there, and that portion of the uni-body frame is more like a 'U' channel, about 3-4 pieces of sheet metal bent up. If Tracker jumps in, he can explain how he made the Tongue for his trailer.

When I need a new double flair set, 4 years ago, I bought one at Napa, and I think I paid $49 for it. But, I've used it many times, and only had it slip a couple of times until I got the hang of it, but mine has the 'wing' nuts on it- Like This And while searching for a picture.......I spotted that link ;) And a lot better price than Napa. :roll:

You wouldn't, they only exist - here, e-bay or a Junk yard. There not even close......Pete did a write up in a topic not too long ago, comparing the difference in the tail lights......I couldn't find it real fast.

Yea.....I'm game ;) I bet he sells it very near the asking price :D I'll put up one of them air freshers that Wahoo likes so much :eek:

They offer THIS mounting kit. I replace one couple years ago, and I had to "re-drill" the brackets to get the step bumper to fit correct. But I also replaced an after market step bumper, not the factory step bumper. I can take some pictures of the brackets. there kind of like a C channel, and hang out past the tail gate about 5 inches.

Nobody likes a smart arse... :roll: :D :brows: :D :D :D :cheers: CW JT is just showing off all that Algebra that he just learned in school :shake:

For the Trailer hitch. And THIS for the rear bumper, from Advance Auto Parts, it's a Westin (FEY) product.

think we can get an updated photo???? :roll: How do you know that not a current picture of Wahoo??? :jump: