Salvagedcircuit

Which one did you have success with? I've been meaning to pick one up for my workshop. Thanks!

Man, I would be one happy dude if I was half as good of a painter as you are. Looking really good there.

Carry on the torch of boxy-ness. This is the way.

Definitely a keeper! Nice score.

I've noticed that the coolant line from my AW4 transmission to the main radiator is quite mangled around the fitting. Here are some photos. Unfortunately, I forgot to remove the fan connector when taking the photos. Is there anyway I can verify if my AW4 is overheating when in use? I believe the replacement transmission cooler line is Dorman 624334. Frankly, the line does not look too good near the fitting, indicating that the radiator may have been replaced before and the line became twisted from someone with a quick wrench. That or the OP dropped several dozen wrenches in that area. Are there any guides on how to properly replace this? I'm looking through my service manual to see what precautions I need to take. Thanks a ton!

Hmm. Are these for the shortbed or long bed? These don't look like metric ton package springs, they look standard. Are they any good? I plan on going to a spring shop because my trust in dorman has waned significantly.

Potting compound is indeed some great stuff. You will never find it used in cheapo amazon / aliexpress lights though. The most you'll see is a partially conformal coated pcb that fails in short notice.

Oh man, what a find. One of the golden years. We are not worthy. Nice job!

That and I find that a lot of the 3rd party lighting equipment is not designed for the elements. There is a lot of import rubbish. You really need an aluminum extrusion, a channel, o-ring, sealant and even pressure. Even then, the sun always seems to win.

This is incredibly valuable information. Thank you for providing me with this

Curious, which front sway bar did you end up installing? Thanks!

That's great! I should do the same to my rear glass!

Oooh. Those rock guards are looking extra good. Nice job.

yep. I plan on plugging the egr hole or threading it with a tap and installing an npt pipe plug (and vacuuming the chips) now I just have to find some o-rings for the reinx fuel rail. Does anyone know the part number or standard size? Thanks

I'm in the same situation here. My reinx exhaust manifold is cracked in several places and the only way forward is to replace it. Considering I have an 88 reinx, I can get a replacement Dorman 674-170 / ATP 101111 and it would be a drop-in replacement, but from what it seems, these exhaust headers tend to crack in short notice. It seems folks are having a lot more luck with the baffle style exhaust headers. I could get a new expansion baffle-style exhaust manifold like the Dorman 674-196 / ATP 101330 / jdmspeed but I would need to file the stock square-style reinx intake a bit, and get a new 91+ style head pipe. There is a spot for the O2 sensor, but I would have to weld in a spot for the egr, or go without it (i'm in an emissions exempt state). Is the best option for reinx to just get the baffle style header and modify it to work? Thanks everyone for the input

Many thanks for this. These are the few images on the interwebs showing the bottom of the comanche bench seats. PO decided the cable from the driver to the passenger rail was not needed for seat operation

You sir are doing excellent legwork. Many thanks. I want to grab a cover for my longbed and I'm in the same boat!

Hell yeah, lookin great! Must...find...rollbar

Wooah, where did you find those flares? Are they still available as reproductions or was this a new old stock kind of find? Looks excellent. I always liked the black fender flares!

5x4.5 is certainly the correct size!

I hear your frustrations. I have a rebuilt gm 4.3L vortec V6 in my astro van from jasper. Its been about 15k miles and for the past 5k miles there has been very tiny amounts of metal filings in the oil filter. Again, brand new rebuilt engine. Took the oil pan off and inspected the engine. Turns out the piston rod caps were not torqued down to GM spec. The rod bearings were removed and they had signs of uneven wear. Purchased all new mhale rod bearings, used plastigauge and my calibrated torque wrench and torqued everything up to proper gm specifications. It's crazy what some companies get away with. Please don't crush the comanche. You will get more by reselling it. There are folks who buy comanche's in any shape. You will get more from a private sale than any junkyard will offer.

What worked well for me was welding in elevator head bolts for the under 1.25in hole sizes. You can get elevator bolts up to 1+9/16 head size from mcmastercarr, but I got mine from the local hardware store. Simply wire wheel around the area where there are holes, measure hole size, get an elevator bolt larger, tap it into the hole, then weld around the bolthead diameter. Its convenient since you don't have to deal with cutting small bits of metal and it's easier since the part does not move around as much if the hole is not too large.

Gosh, those are some clean floorpans! Lucky lucky!

I know the feeling. I purchased my longbed in april of 22 and I have driven it all of about 3 miles since. I put about 4 months straight of work into it and it's still not ready for prime time. I did: grounds 1/2 of cruiser54 tips welded in new floor new vinyl floor and liner brake booster + master upgrade new brake lines new front brake calipers and rear drum cylinders new distributor, adjusted the rotor cleaned all the plugs and checked gaps removed, cleaned and filed valve cover cleaned top of head cleaned out throttle body and sensor replaced vacuum lines replaced and siliconed firewall plugs new rims and tires flushed coolant new water pump new antenna install new coolant tank full gauge cluster mod new belt tensioner pulley horn replacement ignition coil cleaning oil change o2 sensor replacement parking brake cable replacement cylinder compression test new thermostat wilwood prop valve install cleaned up the light sockets all around swapped brake pedal and brake light harness seat bracket welding fuel filter I'm sure I missed a bunch. My comanche needs a new exhaust manifold to pass inspection and I'm really dreading that upcoming job. It's also in the 10s-20s most afternoons so I really am pushing it off until spring. Sometimes it helps to take some time and revisit the problem later. That's what I do. I search around on comancheclub for folks wiser than I, and their repair methods and techniques. My current to-to list: Exhaust manifold fix gauge cluster PRUNDL indicator entire front suspension. everything. entire rear suspension. everything. differential inspection, fluid change install rear spare tire radio + speakers new door seals. Using adhesive foam as a temp fix. complete vehicle paint. paint flaking and peeling everywhere pray to the jeep gods and try to find an affordable original LWB Rollbar

That is a pretty sweet find. I'm still hoping to find my buildsheet somewhere in the comanche. Pete said sometimes it's in the door card or even underneath the air box. well the air box is coming out when I do the exhaust manifold, so we shall see how it goes. Nice.