Big_Mark

Nice! thanks neighbor!

I got mine from O'reiley's no complaints, great quality, powder coated grey and fit perfectly I bough new rollover valves from MTS since I don't want to have to change them later (one tank pull is enough)

That's the way to quarantine! Glad you're feeling well enough to work on your Jeep, keep it up man!

Peanut gallery idea, I've used JB Weld to fix scratches in cylinder walls before with great success, perhaps you could remove crank, clean the scratches, jb weld the defects, sand off excess JB weld then try again? With that said, it's a lot of work to remove the crank, and if the crank is out of the engine, why not just take the crank to a machine shop to see if they can do something about it? Also I've worked on 2 different 258 engines, 84, and 85 both had rubber RMS, no ropes. Good luck brother, sorry your fix turned into a new problem, that is the absolute worst feeling: "I broke my Jeep fixing it"

Hi all, I have what appears to be two aftermarket light fixtures on my rear bumper and am wondering if this was a factory option or if it was a dealer installed option. I know the hole is buggered up really good but the cuts are well done and are the same on both sides of the license plate holder. If it's a factory option I'll replace the lamps and get the switch working. Thanks in advance!

This is that tank I bought from Oreilly's Measurements from the description: Length (in): 29-3/4 Inch Height (in): 13-5/8 Inch Width (in): 17-1/4 Inch Capacity (Gal): 18 Gallon I'll go measure the old tank if you still need other dimensions, this seemed like the most efficient way to get you the info you requested.

Here's some pics of my gas tank with the new pump sending unit assembly installed in the Jeep (well mostly, there was some in and out and adjusting of the tank straps and is why the E brake bracket is hanging) Here's the new tank on the bench before it went in Here's the original tank without the pump sending unit assembly Hopefully these pics help you identify your tank. this is the 18 Gal tank

I'm using the MTS pump and replacement sending unit. The only issue I had was how the pump is held onto the sending unit assembly. I was able to overcome the issue with 2 hose clamps Other thank that is was bolt in as is and works great! If I don't use the hose clamps the pump falls off/pushes itself off the output hose (fuel to engine). With the clamps all is good. I think the stock assembly has some kind of metal loop/keeper assembly that hold the top of the pump in place, sadly the MTS one doesn't have that part.

Caught Between by The Screaming Trees

I don't have any experience with travel trailers, I just wanted to chime into say, every time I see this thread pop up I think it says "Who's got experience with TIME TRAVELLERS?" and it cracks me up! That is all, please carry on with your regularly scheduled programming...

And 8 lug Dana 60's A+

I have the TJ type shifter in my MJ so I had to use the Azzy's Alternate method to connect the bottom of the shifter linkage to my adjustment rod. It worked fine around town etc, but when I went wheeling the "elbow" bent/moved out of position so I lost 2 Wheel High, it wasn't a big deal since I was driving in snow but that was no bueno so I ended up pulling the linkage out, with the linkage on the bench I put it back into position, then drilled a second hole, ran a bolt and lock nut through it then put it back in, viola it's fixed, now it only shifts gears, not positions! See pic for reference, I put the second bolt through where the green dot it in the pic is To see what I am talking about check out the Azzy's video

nice heater! Those things crank it out, seems like you got a project or two as well as a place to do em!

Mashemup! Make one good one

Very nice! Can't wait to see it when it's all together

$5.29 for premium at the Co-Op here in Snohomish. Their gas is usually .50 higher thank other places since they don't add ethanol. It's nice to live in a town with an active agricultural scene. Also they have leaded "racing" gas since we also have a race track nearby (Monroe WA) as well as an airfield.

Or if it wasn't there on the way TO the trail but you have it AFTER wheeling, then you "get" to drive home FROM the trail with the DWs, this is when you pray for "coming home from a weekend vacation" traffic on HWY 2 (in my case) Good catch on the short lowers, yeah that would cause the springs to bow back like that! More geometry at play!

I think you should indeed move the drag link under the pitman arm. I think that angle is too extremeand is likely part of your DW issue. Also those lower links have a weird bend to them. In between Jeeps I had a Disco 3 and installed some "High clearance" lower links to my rear axle that also bends like that (only the ones I had the bend was pointing to the top/upwards) after installing them I had odd rear end behavior (yea go ahead and laugh/quote) whenever I was taking off quickly or turning. I am not saying that's your issue as well but I wouldn't discount it either. Ultimately you want all the angles of steering components and links to be as close to horizontal as possible. I know you aren't going to make everything flat but anywhere you can get it closer the better off you will be, especially that drag link. H I didn't know you had hiem joints at play. I'm not at all surprised you have the DWs since as you discovered Hiem joints do have a tiny bit of play from the get go, and if your mounting bolt holes are oversized at all and not tightened down that can add to more play. I'm not saying hiems are bad, just be aware of the potential of compounding movement as you stack the variables. Lastly that steering stabilizer looks stock, you might consider getting a larger diameter one to see if that helps. My free advice: 1. Move drag link to bottom of pitman arm 2. ensure all hiems are properly mounted and snug 3. upgrade stabilizer Ultimately I suspect you are dealing with issues related to geometry. Good luck with the "custom" !

I call the wobble "Death Wobs" because you feel like you are about to drive off the road when it happens! Things I've noticed from the past, make sure the steering stabilizer is securely attached and that it still has life left in it. Regarding the camber, I don't think that's the issue, it's the caster that you are describing and yes that comes into play. If you have 35" plus tires you could install a redneck ram style hydraulic steering setup. While it sounds "extreme" adding it will make a huge difference and will likely eliminate the death wobs.

My Home circa 2 years ago. No gravel driveway and still tons of blackberry bushes in the field. That "trail" in the lower field is my Jeep test route , I can get the Jeep moving pretty quickly from one end to the other

That Jeep logo on the front is janky!

Ahh good to know, thanks!

AZjeff, Why wouldn't you just replace the old lights with the new ones? I don't understand why you went through all the effort? Otherwise those taillights look great!

Agreed! I have had experience with broken leaf packs but it was never the main leaf, just other leaf's in the pack. Pro Comp 4" lift CJ-8, they ended up breaking after I did SOA + 5.0 and 36" tires. I thing the combination of tire size + torque + HP + flex was too much for those brittle springs. The leaf's were circa 1998-2000 I think they most likely use different steel these days. P.S. the pack stayed together because the band kept the broken parts from shifting out. When they broke there was a loud BAM!! 🤣