Big_Mark

And 8 lug Dana 60's A+

I have the TJ type shifter in my MJ so I had to use the Azzy's Alternate method to connect the bottom of the shifter linkage to my adjustment rod. It worked fine around town etc, but when I went wheeling the "elbow" bent/moved out of position so I lost 2 Wheel High, it wasn't a big deal since I was driving in snow but that was no bueno so I ended up pulling the linkage out, with the linkage on the bench I put it back into position, then drilled a second hole, ran a bolt and lock nut through it then put it back in, viola it's fixed, now it only shifts gears, not positions! See pic for reference, I put the second bolt through where the green dot it in the pic is To see what I am talking about check out the Azzy's video

nice heater! Those things crank it out, seems like you got a project or two as well as a place to do em!

Mashemup! Make one good one

Very nice! Can't wait to see it when it's all together

$5.29 for premium at the Co-Op here in Snohomish. Their gas is usually .50 higher thank other places since they don't add ethanol. It's nice to live in a town with an active agricultural scene. Also they have leaded "racing" gas since we also have a race track nearby (Monroe WA) as well as an airfield.

Or if it wasn't there on the way TO the trail but you have it AFTER wheeling, then you "get" to drive home FROM the trail with the DWs, this is when you pray for "coming home from a weekend vacation" traffic on HWY 2 (in my case) Good catch on the short lowers, yeah that would cause the springs to bow back like that! More geometry at play!

I think you should indeed move the drag link under the pitman arm. I think that angle is too extremeand is likely part of your DW issue. Also those lower links have a weird bend to them. In between Jeeps I had a Disco 3 and installed some "High clearance" lower links to my rear axle that also bends like that (only the ones I had the bend was pointing to the top/upwards) after installing them I had odd rear end behavior (yea go ahead and laugh/quote) whenever I was taking off quickly or turning. I am not saying that's your issue as well but I wouldn't discount it either. Ultimately you want all the angles of steering components and links to be as close to horizontal as possible. I know you aren't going to make everything flat but anywhere you can get it closer the better off you will be, especially that drag link. H I didn't know you had hiem joints at play. I'm not at all surprised you have the DWs since as you discovered Hiem joints do have a tiny bit of play from the get go, and if your mounting bolt holes are oversized at all and not tightened down that can add to more play. I'm not saying hiems are bad, just be aware of the potential of compounding movement as you stack the variables. Lastly that steering stabilizer looks stock, you might consider getting a larger diameter one to see if that helps. My free advice: 1. Move drag link to bottom of pitman arm 2. ensure all hiems are properly mounted and snug 3. upgrade stabilizer Ultimately I suspect you are dealing with issues related to geometry. Good luck with the "custom" !

I call the wobble "Death Wobs" because you feel like you are about to drive off the road when it happens! Things I've noticed from the past, make sure the steering stabilizer is securely attached and that it still has life left in it. Regarding the camber, I don't think that's the issue, it's the caster that you are describing and yes that comes into play. If you have 35" plus tires you could install a redneck ram style hydraulic steering setup. While it sounds "extreme" adding it will make a huge difference and will likely eliminate the death wobs.

My Home circa 2 years ago. No gravel driveway and still tons of blackberry bushes in the field. That "trail" in the lower field is my Jeep test route , I can get the Jeep moving pretty quickly from one end to the other

That Jeep logo on the front is janky!

Ahh good to know, thanks!

AZjeff, Why wouldn't you just replace the old lights with the new ones? I don't understand why you went through all the effort? Otherwise those taillights look great!

Agreed! I have had experience with broken leaf packs but it was never the main leaf, just other leaf's in the pack. Pro Comp 4" lift CJ-8, they ended up breaking after I did SOA + 5.0 and 36" tires. I thing the combination of tire size + torque + HP + flex was too much for those brittle springs. The leaf's were circa 1998-2000 I think they most likely use different steel these days. P.S. the pack stayed together because the band kept the broken parts from shifting out. When they broke there was a loud BAM!! 🤣

The advantage and why they are called military is if you break the leaf with the bushing in it, the top leaf should keep the pack together enough to "get out" of a sticky snitchuation!

I got the center console back in the car: Also I "fixed" the hole in the floor! "I hear banjos playing in the distance......." I too can do booty fab Once I fix the cab leak (I think it's the bed light) I'll make a more permanent fix to the floor situation and perhaps even install some carpet!

I didn't measure perch to perch because my shackles seem to line up straight Can you identify these springs? Is there a leaf added in there. Never having seen a stock pack I don't know what I'm looking at. Here is the profile of the Jeep parked on my flat driveway The rear look a little high, but this is as low as the leafs will go since the PO went through much effort to do this: Good gawd, the booty fab is strong here! From what I can gather the front is a 4-6" lift, possible ProComp, maybe Ruff Country. What I'd like to do is pull these leaf s out and replace them with stock length shackles and leaf packs that will make the Jeep sit level, any ideas what I have and what I should look for to fit the bill?

I don't know the Jeep came this way, what's the MJ width? I'll measure to find out.

Also I got my braided brake lines on there FINALLY!! FP Before: Same After! The rear brakes were such a sh**sh** that I didn;t even taek a picture, here's the afterez... Next rear plans are to do something about the shocks. They are NOT secured well to the frame/unibody and I'm not sure how optimal this placement is. Also I thing some valves need to be oriented in one direction or another. Mine is in the "another" category. There's always something, the good news is I was able to put the freaking axle tube brake lines into the correct positions so they are secure. nothing worse than loosing a brake line in the middle of deep mud/water with random stick/logs floating around in there. They tend to rip stuff off that isn't secured properly. For transparency, I didn't set up the rear valve like this, it came that way. I wanted to put it back where it belongs but the shocks are in the way so I am leaving it for now. I did use a coat hangar to wire the valve lever into the middle/neutral position so it would provide unloaded bias. Not sure it's working but it's not "bad" either. Anyways the tinkering continues!

Since "ole' Jeepy" is up and running now I decided to formalize things, before: Something was missing, let's see from the other angle... In case you missed it: It's official I have a "new" Jeep!!!!

Here's mine:

I just did this yesterday, my HB was also separating, removal was easy, inspected the bearing seal it was "fine" so I'll run it as is and replace it later (when it's rebuild time). The hardest part was getting the new HB back on since the bolt is too short to use to run the HB all the way down. Fortunately I have a 2 bolt steering wheel puller that has the same thread as the main bolt so I was able to place the HB on the end of the crank, then with the big washer in place, threaded the 2bolt puller into the crank, then I turned the 2 bolt puller (the part of the puller where you run the bolts through) body in by hand, this got the HB to move down the end of the crankshaft. I did this by hand until I couldn't turn it by hand, then I used a socket to keep cranking the HB down until it stopped. Next remove the puller, replace and torque the bolt. Also someone asked how to keep the crank from turning when removing the bolt. I just used a punch placed through the HB slots (screw driver might work too) then turned the bolt and held the punch until the HB and punch bound on the block, then a couple of hard, palm of hand, taps on the bolt broke it loose. Same process for getting it back on. Pro tip - If removing this in vehicle, remove the fan shroud so the puller doesn't bind on it near the bottom like mine did.

P.S. I'm all through Cruiser54s steps, and it's running great! (Ground the grounds with grounded Grounds! )

Some pics! Under the hood is looking better. In the dark waiting for the TJ to get unstuck in the snow/ice entrance. I'd drive back in to help but then they'd have to help me get back out for sure! Last pic at the lookout. I had to be towed up the last hill climb due to lack of tires. Next year I expect to be able to drive up that snowy hill!

Took a bit to find this thread but here's some updates. I have the Comanche up and running. I ended up having to secure the fuel pump to the new armature/sending unit/pickup tube with hose clams since the new piece did not have the top keeper part and my old unit also didn't have it. Once I secured that my fuel pressure problems ceased! New Gas Tank Replaced valve cover gasket Front and rear brakes are serviced and working All lights, gauges and accessories work as expected with the exception of my wipers they are still really slow overall, but the intermittent, off, low and high settings all work, they just seem a bit sluggish. Motor and T-case mounts have been replaced, that was easier than expected. During the motor mount swap I discovered that my oil filet adapter was leaking like crazy so I replaced those 3 gaskets, now the leak has stopped. I'll watch the oil stains on the oil pan to see if it stops leaking now, if not I should be able to pinpoint the leak easier. I need new tires. The BFG AT's are old, hard and not good for pacific NW wheeling. I want to get 32" of 33" Iroks but they are currently back ordered like everything else these days so that's on hold for a bit. I discovered I needed tires on the inaugural wheeling tri on Jan 1st 2022, boy my current tires were practically useless in deep snow. but my heat works!! At any rate now I have the car up and running, it has decent on road manners and starts', stops and runs as expected. Now I just need to keep driving it, work out any new issues that come up and start making it more comfortable inside, perhaps stop the leaking from everywhere along the roof, find and fix that squeel, squeek that I think is coming from the speedometer cable and so on. I'd add some photos but from the outside the Jeep looks the same, only now it's streetable! More to follow!