Big_Mark

I finally got it all buttoned up after I had a successful start up I took a hard drive (more like hammer down light) around the yard for good measure! Gas tank skid is back on, Hood and assembly is back in place and works better than before. I had to troubleshoot my headlights, a fuse in the headlight relay had corroded, brushed it off put it back, now the lights work great again. Some notes on things I had to discover along the way as it relates to Gas Tank removal and replacement. 1. Unbolt the emergency brake cable assembly under the truck bed and leave it off until you have replaced the gas tank and skid plate. 2. After you've removed all the fuel supply lines from the tank and unscrewed the gas cap assembly from the bed panel (remove the cap when pulling the tank out), and the straps are removed from the truck, you can remove the gas tank and filler hoses as one assembly. This makes removing and installing the filler hoses and tank MUCH easier. 3. Keep track of which tank strap is front and rear, it makes reinstalling them easier. 4. Clean the threads on the tank straps, run the bolt out (to loosen it) about 1/2" - 1" on a vise, with PB Blast. The new tank will need some extra thread to get it back in there. O.k. on to bigger better and more fun things! rear shocks, motor mounts, lengthen drive shaft and beyond.....

This seemed to be the issue. After a FRIGGIN YEAR I finally gave up and called my buddy who is an actual mechanic. He brought a scanner and checked what he could (all my sensors are good) and we determined with a proper fuel pressure gauge that I was only getting 5 -10 psi (maybe) at the rail. So today I pulled the "new" pump and fuel gauge assembly only to find the hose had indeed partially slipped off the feeder line. I am going to replace the pump and strap it onto the assembly, then change my tank since mine is rusty inside I'd like to have this done once and for all. More to follow when it's back together! Hopefully in the next few weeks, not YEARS!!!!

@Dammerung any progress here? I'm still having the same issues so today I am going to go over all the vacuum lines. Will start by blocking off the accessory line that comes off the manifold, then will spray some carb cleaner around the seals and hose ends. Thing's I've done since Feb: Swapped in new Alternator, replaced fuel pressure regulator, re-wired battery grounds and starter cable. I pulled open my wiring harness under the hood on the firewall to work on Cruiser54s ground hack, only to find it had been fixed already. I plan to solder a wire directly to the ground bundle to see if that makes any improvements. Before I had this issue I had been working on the heater controls, and vacuum reservoir. It's entirely possible one of the one-way vacuum valve has just given out. Fingers crossed that's the issue here, I really want to drive this thing!

In my case I had one bad parking lamp socket. After replacing it my parking lights came on, as did my hazards and turn signals. You can buy replacement sockets at NAPA, Oreilys, etc EDIT: Not sure if you mean front or back parking lamps, if back lamps I fought a huge battle with the rear wiring harness and ended up grounding it on to the chassis/body via the fuel pump ground wire. Then I did the Cruiser 54 fuel pump ground trick. So my rear harness is grounded in 2 places. Also I had to pull the rear harness apart to find the cracked wire that was causing intermittent issues back there. Good luck, keep working through the harness eventually you'll find the weak link :-D

Since it snowed today I decided to give the old Jeep a hammerdown through the yard, I started it and it was responsive and worked well, but by the 3rd pass across the snow covered field it started stumbling off idle. I noticed the engine had come up to temp. Research on Cherocar forums indicate O2 sensor, when the sun comes out I'll try that since as it has been mentioned here, O2 Sensors are replacement parts and I haven't replaced mine yet. It was fun to drive hard again, even if it was just for 10-15 minutes :-)

SO yes I tried this and there was zero change in behavior. I've also thrown some parts at it (from a junk yard truck) to no avail, including the ignitor and coil. Tested all plug wires, they are good, I'll wait until spring to work on this, hopefully I'll have had my vaccines and my mechanic buddy can help me out. When it's warm again I plan to take off the hood and do the Cruiser54 sensor ground hack to see if that makes any difference for this issue. I'll post up later!

money sent, thanks for keeping up this site, it's been a wealth of knowledge!

Not yet, I guess I'll give it a go and see what happens. Will post up here and in my thread with results. thanks man I feel you pain.

Thanks guys, I just found this in the archives here https://www.pirate4x4.com/d1/tech/billavista/PDFs/Jeep_Renix_Fuel_Injection_manual.pdf will give it a read and continue troubleshooting per the doc.

What is REM? The light doesn't seem to come on in Neutral, I can make the engine backfire if I wrap it at the throttle body about 1/4 of the time and never see the light under that test condition. Injector wires are plugged into the correct injectors. How can I test the injector harness? I was thinking the wires may have cracks and would like to test them all. Fuel comes out of the rail when I press the Schrader valve, I just installed a new fuel pump this Summer.

Hi All, my most recent upgrade has caused an unexpected side effect. I decided it was time to replace the leaky valve cover gasket and single port injectors and fuel filter on my 1989 MY 4.0. The valve cover job went well (aside from having to extract 2 bolts from the head ) and the injector job was fairly easy with the exception of waiting for Jegs to send me new fuel line quick disconnects. Fuel filter replacement was uneventful aside from replacing the short lengths of hose and clamps. After I got all the stuff back together and buttoned up I went for a test drive which for me is a quick hammer down through our lower acreage in 4 low, 2nd, 3rd,4th as fast as I can go in a short distance, then back in 2wd for a street drive on pavement 1/2 mile that includes a 200' elevation gain straight up a hill to a State Park. All went well and the engine was running really smooth at the park so I decided to go further and head into town (Snohomish WA) on a flat paved back highway. As I went down hill under compression I noticed a little bit of stumbling but nothing major. When I got to the "T" at the highway I put it in 1st to drive off when I felt the first stumble, it either feels like no spark or no gas, not sure which it is. So I compensated by taking out out of gear, wap, wap wap on the throttle until it was running normal then I slipped the clutch until I got the Jeep running down the road. At this point the little "house" or "Up arrow" light came on on my left bank of indicator lights. I do not know what that is an indicator of however every time it comes on the engine runs like this. It comes on and off as the issue arises and goes away. I was eventually able to hobble the MJ home and start troubleshooting and searching for others with similar issues Found one here! I read through Dammerung's journey and went on one of my own, here's what I've discovered along the way 1. I have not done Cruiser54s Sensor ground mod yet but I did test the TPS using Cruiser54's method, there was no fluctuation in the ground resistance, while I am not ruling out a ground issue I do not think this is the root cause of my problems at this time since the issue only came up after specific work was done on the Jeep, and it occurred after a 10-15 minute period of driving. 2. I removed and reinstalled the original injectors (turned out I already had 4 hole Chrysler injectors) < No change in behavior 3. I tested my CPS, it was only putting out .1 -.2v so I replaced it, and am getting a strong .5v. When the engine is running it runs smoother but over all < No change in behavior 4. I checked the resistance in plug wires, inspected wires, all are good, I have not pulled any spark plugs < Ad to my to do list 5. I checked the cap and rotor, the cap contact (middle contact from coil wire) was broken and the broken off part was stuck under the rotor contact which had bent over to the side a bit. Replaced cap and rotor < No change in behavior 6. Errata 21 week prior to this I took the Jeep to a spray and wash and hosed out the engine compartment to get the oil off the engine and hood and firewall, etc. I was careful to not directly spray the electronics but some overspray did get on everything. Maybe something got wet and took time and driving to ruin something? Now I am out of ideas and am waiting to see what results Dammerung has before I shoot the parts cannon at other parts of the system. If anyone has thoughts or ideas please post up I am willing to try them. P.S. besides checking the resistance to the battery from the TPS harness I am unable to properly test the TPS because of where it is mounted, I have a manual transmission and the expen$ive TPS without pigtails, so getting the multimeter probes in there is a physical impossibility. If I was to by any one new part it would be the TPS for an automatic, since they are cheaper and make that test (and adjustment) easier. However it seems like that isn't the issue for others so I'd rather not spend money that will likely not resolve my issue..

My MJ has started doing the same things, can't wait to see how this plays out! Fingers crossed one of those two items fixes your issue.

I went with the larger offset Unit Bearing and it was a tight fit on the insides of the calipers with fresh pads. I think the other unit bearing would have made it easier to install the calipers however it all fit together as expected and the brakes do work. Over time the pads will wear and the calipers will move closer to the inside of the axles so I'll run it like this. Driving around without the friction of bad U-joints has made a huge improvement in performance. Also being able to stop the truck without grinding noises is a bonus Thanks for the insight folks

Has your driveline angle or length changed? Is the pinion in the new axle loose? Those are the likely suspects for vibrations

Prius ...so I can afford my Jeep habit Also the family weekend ride is a 2015 Silverado, you know to buy groceries in

O.k. I went and checked, sure enough the overall depth of the unit bearings are the same (as is the depth of the stub shaft), the only difference between the unit bearing is the flange offset. My rotors are 2 7/8" deep (both) so it seems I need the 2.133" unit bearings, and to be sure the rotors are the right depth! Thanks again!

Thanks OldSck88L that makes sense, I'll check the depth of the rotors, BTW on the Drivers side (short hub) the inner pad was gone all together so I suspect you are on to something here.

I'm trying to get my brakes done before the weather turns to crap, rears are handled but the front is leaving my scratching my head. #1 The Axles in my Jeep were transplants from a 1999 Cherokee that's all I know about them Front Dana 30 no vacuum business Rear Chrysler 8.25 I got the calipers off and rotors off, both sides are in need of new parts, since I have it apart I decided to look into replacing the Unit bearings. Looking on Oreilys I discovered there are 2 varieties, one with a 1.91" flange offset and one with a 2.133" offset easy enough since it's all apart I went and measured and discovered the Drivers side has a 1.91" offset while the passenger side has a 2.133" offset. WTF I am considering replacing both with 1.91 offset flanges since I have 1" spacers to help with wheel offset, my question is are the axle stub shafts for the 1.91" offset flange the same as the ones that go into the 2.133" offset flanged Unit bearings? Are the caliper brackets for the 1.91 the same as the 2.133 set up? I'd pull the bearings but the only giant sized socket that I don't (yet) own is a 36mm" any info is appreciated, thanks!

O.k. since we are about to start with actual cold weather I did a massive ADD workfest on the Jeep today. 1. I got the broken temp sending unit out of the head (well pushed in, will fish it out later) and installed a new one, viola my gauge is working! ALL OF MY GAUGES WORK >>>>>>MILESTONE<<<<<< 2. Screwed the filler hose bracket to the body of the bed, it was just flopping around before 3. Put my WA state plate on, hung the Montana one in the garage cause that's where old plates go! 4. Fixed the leak in my new washer bottle, had to swap out one of the pumps from my old bottle. 5. got my drivers kick panel light working, the connectors were in need of a cleaning. 6. popped in my ashtray from the junkyard run last week. Then I actually drove the Jeep on the road, it tracks well but is still in need of a brake job, that the thing I'm procrastinating but I kind of blew through the piddly things so I guess that's up next. I know it's going to be some work and $$ the drivers rotor has visible groves in it so yeah..... Anyways I'm glad to have all the creature comfort and street legal stuff out of the way and functioning. BTW after driving the Jeep on the road my Oil pressure leveled off at 20-22 PSI, more of what I expect from a straight 6, the engine temp got to around 190-200, will continue to monitor that as I drive the thing around more..after the brakes are working properly All around feeling like a happy Jeephead again!

So I swapped out the oil pressure gauge today and now the gauge is working, not sure if it's accurate but it is indicating 40Lbs pressure, I sure hope is accurate, I'll take that! Also for whatever reason my buzzer has decided to start working as well evidently instead of having new electrical issues existing ones are fixing themselves I'll take it

While fighting my rear lights I did the Cruiser54 ground refresh http://cruiser54.com/?p=19 for the rear, in this case. Ultimately I ended up doing the fuel pump reground http://cruiser54.com/?p=249 in addition to that I cut the ground wire to about 10" from the cab side of the rear harness connector and grounded that the the rear "frame". Once I did that my rear harness ground issues went away.

Yep the single pump with the blocked off hose works perfectly, on to other tasks!

I hope they make the bulb housing, mine are in shabby condition (as are the lenses)

Thanks all, I guess I'll just run it as it then, which is fine with me, one less trip to the local hardware store and I can just bolt it down and go