pizzaman09

The Comanches with AC has the electric fan as well. My truck has dealer installed AC which added the thermal switch and relay for the electric fan. I recently changed my switch and the fan now works perfectly. On a hot day my truck at idle will creep up above the 195 thermostat to 210 or so, particularly at idle. Mine is a 1990 Renix truck. Should be easy enough to do, there are after market temp sensing kits, or you can wire it to a switch.

Doesn't look factory to me. Mine looks like the one @fiatslug87 posted.

Cool stuff!

The clip is nice to have. My one friend managed to pull the clip out when he was pulling the door panel off, he didn't know the hockey stick needed to be rotated. The clip fell out into the bottom of the door. I had a loose handle for months until one day I poked around, found the clip in the bottom of the door and put it all back together correctly.

In general, if a vehicle has a mixed size spare, it is recommended to put it on a non driven wheel. So put that spare in the front an stay in 2wd, it will prevent excessive wear of the differential and minimize odd handling until the bad tire can be fixed.

Easy test would be to remove the vacuum line from the master and plug it off, then repeat your testing. If the engine idle doesn't jump then you know the problem is with the booster.

Not quite I'm the same line, but years ago I was on the main drag in town and saw a Jeep Grand Wagoneer stranded in the suicide line with it's rear driveshaft dragging on the ground. The next day I drove by the same spot and I kid you not, there was a different Grand Wagoneer stranded in the same spot with a driveshaft hanging down. The first time it was blue, the second one was white.

Repairing your board with some fiberglass resin laid over it would likely be pretty easy and give it the extra strength it needs to stay in shape for the future. I've seen someone on this forum do it as his board was pretty fragile.

All sound like great reason, as long as there is support for them. A friend of mine looked at doing a K swap into an 87 Toyota MR2. After a lot of shopping we decided the engines were expensive and instead went the easy route and got a Toyota 4AGE Blacktop from Japan.

I like the rotary light on top.

Indeed. I have KYB on the back of my truck and if I had found them for the front I would have bought them. They are perfect, nice and soft while still controlled.

The 3.4 being the closest swap is probably the way to go. I did a similar swap in an 87 Toyota MR2, swapped in an engine and transmission from a 96 Japanese spec Corolla. Mechanically it was very easy since it was the same basic engine, the more challenging part was integrating the electronics. It was doable, people had done the exact swap before, just took a lot of patience and some research to get the things like tachometer, speedo, and electric fans working.

Been there and done that, 4L with a non functioning clutch and about 8 inches of dense snow.

This is intriguing info

I had considered the rancho adjustable shocks, just didn't feel they were worth the price. Though now I'm intrigued again since you state it rides much smoother on the street. I have the non adjustable 5000 series Ranchos on the front of mine, and it's a bit stiff for my liking.

I changed mine a few months ago. I am embarrassed to admit that I had a heck of a time getting it off with the puller. Turns out the big giant 1/4" thick washer on the front was stuck to it and I was trying to pull the balancer through that washer. Once the washer was removed it came right off! I suspect mine was not original as it was still decent at 250k miles on it.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/power-torque/power-torque-slave-cylinder/ptq5/cs2326?q=CS2326&pos=0 I purchased CS2326, it is actually metal, looking at the photo it does indeed match the part I got. It did come in a box with a picture of a internal slave cylinder on it which quite worried me, but indeed the correct part was in the box. I highly recommend this part, installed super easy and was quite easy to bleed.

Looking Sharp!

It's been a long time since I played with Linux, but to me it sounds like a bootloader sequence issue on startup. I'm not sure what key you need to press or hold during startup to get into the BIOS, but there should be a message just before the OS boots that tells you. From the BIOS you should be able to change the boot loader preferences.

Sweet! Getting a vehicle moving for the first time in a long time is always exciting.

Finished the Advanced Adaptors external slave conversion today! I'm so excited to finally have a reliable clutch hydraulic system, every part of it is new at this point. Getting the transmission aligned with the pilot bearing was miserable, 4 hours of fiddling around. We had the truck on a two post lift but only had a 2ft high transmission jack. A combo of the transmission jack and jacking the back of the engine up and down with a floor jack under the oil pan finally did it. It popped in and all was easy from there. Only other challenge was you are apparently not supposed to cut the plastic tabs on the clutch slave cylinder before install, ended up shooting the piston out of the front of the cheap plastic slave provided in the Advance Adapters kit. Replaced it with a nice metal one that was in stock at O'Reilly's. Also because I had access to do so, I did the CPS advance mod. Definitely the original Siemens French made CPS.

I wonder if something else it worn out, like the fork. When you push the clutch in, does it disengage very low near the floor?

Certainly the transverse engine is a surmountable problem. Out of curiosity, why G35? Why not a K series? I've played with BMWs for a long time. There's many things I don't like about them, particularly their terrible plastic cooling systems, but their engines are brilliant. At least the ones from the 90s, I've put them through some impressive abuse and they just take it. I've never had a mechanical problem with any BMW engine, just lots of ripped up drive line components and suspension stuff. That looks like a body swap onto a 96-99 BMW M3 chassis. Shock towers, radiator cross brace, brake booster, fuse block, washer reservoir, as well as everything else is exactly where it's supposed to be. It even has cruise control and the secondary air injection pump for emissions. I bet that is a hoot and really catches people off guard. Should be good for a run to 60 mph in a hair under 6 seconds.

Way up high near the pedal pivot. I'll repeat, this part is for disengaging cruise control. It's not a common part as there are not a lot of Renix Jeeps with a manual and cruise.

What's the condition of the soft lines? Could they be swollen and not letting you get all the fluid you need to the slave? Could your master cylinder be bad? Possibly not returning all of the way?