pizzaman09

I was figuring that would be the answer. For the money I think I'd rather purchase a nice Banks header. My first Comanche had one, I believe the only engine mod it had, and it ran much stronger than my current one. I've done the CPS mod to make it like a high altitude one, that definitely helped mine. I haven't seen a noticeable increase in fuel economy, but I don't drive consistently enough to really catch that.

No, very unlikely, you tend to need a lot of work to improve airflow enough on an NA engine to need larger injectors.

I am a fan of buying down south, though usually the interiors are much worse from down south. I purchased a very clean 99 BMW 3 series from Virginia a few years ago, it's amazing that there is just zero rust on it. Quite the opposite of the 99 BMW M3 I purchased out of Wisconsin a few years later with less miles. It's just rusty enough to be annoying to work on. The current front runner for a replacement vehicle is an 8th Gen Honda Civic Si (2006-2011). My twin and I have never owned a Japanese car and figure it's about time to try one. It ticks a lot of boxes for us, good fuel economy, 4 seats, high strung fun engine with a manual. It being front wheel drive like the Oldsmobile will probably mean it goes alright in the winter with the right tires.

Bring that this is a 91, it is an HO engine, which I'm a bit less familiar with. Making sure everything is clean, the vacuum lines don't leak and having decent park plugs would all be on my list of things to check.

Did you notice a difference in performance or throttle tip in from the larger bore?

This past spring taken a couple days after having those wheels freshly refinished.

Tail light bulb upgrade. Sylvania 2357 in red. Installed then in just the center position l, the upper position is still an incandescent bulb which keep the resistance high enough to maintain a normal blink rate.

I've always been concerned about how dim the taillights on my Comanche are. I picked up a set of Sylvania Red 2357 bulbs and put them in the middle position on both rear light housings. They are easily 2-3 times brighter and look nice and red within the housing. What's fun is that the incandescent bulb in the top slot is slower to react so it has a nice moving up light look when blinking. The photo above shows it much more orange than it really looks.

I'm a white letters and white walls out type of guy, regardless of vehicle. Also, use a product called Bleche Wite to keep them clean.

I'm guessing you have a 4.0L?

Well done!

She's very clean on top. Typical rock chips, I always insisted on white wall tires as they were factory and just look right on it. Has 165,000 miles on it. We won't scrap it, most likely sell it to someone in NY or OH where they don't care about rust and someone with drive it for another 10 years. It honestly still rides like a dream and feels like it did in 2008 when we first started driving it.

I have learned the hard way, use a rust converter to fix rusty spots. If you sand down to metal and then use filler to bring it back up to height, it will immediately start rusting their again. I recommend a product like Loctite rust converting primer, follow the directions exactly and you'll be super happy. Then you can fill, sand paint. I spent a month this summer repeating rust repair work I did in 2020 in my rust old M3 because I didn't use rust converter back then. With respect to the full vehicle repaint, doing the whole vehicle instead of just certain parts makes it easier as you don't have to match or blend the color.

Well, after 15 wonderful years my twin brother and I's 1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight is no longer good enough for the state of Pennsylvania. The salt encrusted Erie, PA winters got to it. The front subframe has ripped from the unibody in an incredibly rusty area. It's still very shiny on top! There are sections of rust there that should be connected... It's a sad moment, the Oldsmobile was our first car gifted to us by our Grandparents with 42k creampuff miles. That said, we need another vehicle before winter hits as we have no intentions of letting the Comanche get attacked by salt. We currently own a 1999 BMW M3 which is our other winter beater as well as daily driver and weekend autocross car. Our general interests lie in 80s and 90s cars with stick shifts. We've never owned a Japanese vehicle but would consider one. We would definitely look at Jeeps, and BMWs of the vintage as that is what we are most familiar with. Any suggestions? I should say my brother has a 100 mile round trip commute that he makes 3-5 days a week, so cruise control for highway comfort is a must.

I appreciate the compliments! This was a lot of fun to write up.

What you really need is some of the ultra black paints that are so black that they absorb light without reflecting any back. I'm not sure there are any commercially available since these paints seem to mostly be laboratory experiments.

This is effectively how modern bi-xenon headlights work. They have a single xenon bulb in the projector housing and there is a little servo controlled flap that uncovers the top of the beam for high beam.

He is already blocking that portion of the light with the brush bar. Though thinking in retrospect, the glas on the front of a sealed beam is very complex and scatters the light so my suggestion is unlikely to work well.

Might you consider blocking the source? If you are ok with the look, blocking some of the headlight itself may work.

Yep, I've definitely utilized rivets too, if you want to keep them in, they are nice but if you plan to remove them, the self tapers or bolts are much easier. I'm not familiar with the 3M products, but a lot of the Lord Fusor panel bonding products can be had with glass beads in them that hold the bond line thickness to the perfect thickness so that you don't squeeze it all out.

I work for a company that makes automotive panel bonding adhesives for OEMs, though not 3M. Structure adhesives absolutely can work. I helped a good friend glue new rocker panels on his XJ after he did and excellent job cleaning up and cutting out the old metal. I've also done a bed side to an 86 F150 using the same method, it was much less stressful than welding. My key advice is make sure it fits right before spreading the adhesive and have a way to clamp it well while it dries. My favorite method is to drill holes and use self tapping screws to hold the joint together every few inches. Once the adhesive has dried, take the self tapping screws out and fill each of the holes with a little bit more adhesive. This method can be extremely strong and is far less likely to result in you blowing a hole in the floor with a MiG welder, which takes practice before being good enough to tackle something like a floor pan in a rusty vehicle.

I like the solution. I'd probably have tried flat black paint but this is a bit classier.

The transmission was also used in the Peugeot 505, that might give you a lead for parts. What's this part supposed to look like? Can one 3d print or machine one? The typical ones I've seen are a cylindrical with a spherical surface on the one end to push against the ball.

Having chased many leaks in the brass radiator of my Austin Healey, I finally broke down and replaced it with a cheap Chinese aluminum replacement. It works so much better, doesn't leak and runs a solid 10-20 degrees cooler all of the time. Only issue with fitment wasn't great, though that car is notorious for being more challenging to change the 4 mounting bolts on the radiator than it is to pull an engine. Good luck on the repair, a radiator repair shop is hard to come by now a days.

I had this issue on my 88 Comanche in a central Kansas Pizza Hut parking lot. After a find lunch we walked out and found a 2 ft puddle of oil under the truck that originated.from the air box. I went to the nearest parts store, purchased a PCV valve for a 4.0L, a rubber grommet for the valve cover and a new air filter. I replaced all three items and it didn't put another drop of oil on the air filter for the following 2000 mile drive home. That truck had a PCV in it with some random rubber hose going to the air box port instead of the factory right angle hose setup. I suspect the part I got at the parts store was a later 4.0L part.