pizzaman09

I'd personally take it off, clean it up with some electrical contact cleaner and put it back together. I really don't know anything about the AW4 transmission, my truck is a manual. However I've worked on some similar vintage automatic Fords and cleaning up that switch helped it work much more repeatably. I suspect jpnjake is likely on the right path with tcu power.

Howdy, welcome to the forum! I'm no expert the automatics but I figured I'd add my two cents. This doesn't sound like a transmission mechanical issue to me as it seems to shift through each of the gears manual with no problem. I believe there is a selector switch on the side of the transmission of most automatics of that vintage that is actuated by the shift lever. I would strongly suggest looking at the condition of that switch before going through the effort of replacing the tcu.

I'll quote this again. Are you sure that 4 low is actually engaging the front axle? Is it possible that the 8.8 ratio is different and you just don't notice the problem due to the low speed?

I can confirm my 90 MJ, manufactured in 11/89 had this temp sensor connector behind the bumper.

Indeed the fog light plug is a weather pack on my 90. I was wondering this too, I also have that random plug behind the front bumper.

I have the same issue as you and found the bench seat incredibly uncomfortable on my knees. When I purchased my second Comanche, the bucket seats were a must. They are far more comfortable on my knees but I do have to make a compromise of seat back angle vs how far back the bottom slides. I find that I prefer more gangster lean to the seat back than the average person, however the optimum lower seat placement requires the seat back to be more vertical than is comfortable to me as the headrest is against the rear window. I have thought that a bit of lifting the front of the seat would help. Or just lifting the seat an inch if you have the headroom. If you are more adventurous, a modification to the pedals could help

I bought the Comanche as a truck and tow rig. Tow lots with it with the largest thing being a 15ft single axle trailer. I've had about 5000 lbs behind the truck with an extra 1000 I'm the bed. When I need to tow heavier stuff I'll grab my parents 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the towing package good for 7k lbs. The one upgrade I've done to the Comanche for towing is a set of Hawk performance brake pads up front, they genuinely make a big improvement in towing. My truck does have the Dana 44 with the larger drums. The bumper mount ball is the single most stable hitch setup I've come across, it's so nice and solid, rarely do I experience any wobbles behind the Comanche.

I'm running LEDs in two spots in my truck. The reverse lights are probably the best upgrade I've done, they are so bright that I can actually see things behind me as I'm backing up, I'd argue it's about as bright behind the truck as say one low beam light. Before the swap with the original incandescent bulbs I couldn't even see the difference in brightness behind the truck. I also have LEDs in the center spot for the rear brake lights and turn signals. I purchased red bulbs so the light color would match the lens. That too is a big improvement in being able to see the lights following the truck. I kept the incandescent bulbs in the upper rear housings just so I wouldn't need a new turn signal relay designed for LEDs. I would personally avoid LEDs for interior courtesy lights, the color is too intense and blue. As for dash lights, I would consider it. I did LEDs on the gauges of my Austin Healey Sprite and it really made them a lot easier to see at night. I've also put LED headlights in a few of my cars but kept the classic seals beam halogens in the Comanche as they are pretty good and are the right color in my eyes for the style of the truck.

I completely agree, it's challenging to find a good car sometimes. I just went with caring less about how good the car was and finding a good seller. I passed on several nicer cars only because of how terrible the dealership reviews where. The small dealership I went to had almost a perfect review history, and I see why, they were awesome to work with. The guy I worked with even asked how much gas was in the car before my brother and I left, it was basically empty and so he pulled out his wallet, handed me a $100 bill and said that will buy gas and dinner! I've bought some pretty darn sketchy cars because I knew I could make them right in the end. That's where the deals are if you are planning to drive the wheels off of it and don't care about resale value.

I actively avoid screens in my cars as I look at a screen enough at work. That said, there are many single din pop out screen options like shown above.

It's a beautiful piece. A header is on my wishlist. Of course the whole truck is beautiful.

Many Mercedes parking brake pedal assemblies do look very similar to the Comanche one with it mounting to the side wall of the cabin.

What exhaust header do you have? Is that one of the Banks headers?

This is one clean truck, love the color and there is nothing like SporTruck hockey stick graphics.

You could also do the easier conversion to an XJ center console handbrake style. I'm still guessing that would be challenging to get in Norway.

For giggles, check your transmission fluid level. I had some bad sounds coming from a different car of mine recently some of which were rumbles, it turns out all my trans fluid has leaked out.

I'm genuinely impressed you started with such a worked over and highly used Comanche. Nicely done! Good luck with expanding the YouTube channel!

I utilized mine in a handheld function, really it sat well I'm the center console behind my shifter quite well for a while. Eventually I pulled apart the dash and installed it permanently, which I absolutely love.

It is a simple vacuum operated valve, I'm not certain which way is open, but you should be able to unplug the vacuum line and rotate the valve from the lever arm to open it up.

Might you check to see if all the lines are plumbed to the correct spots under the hood and that your vacuum operated heater valve is working under the hood.

I'm not sure of your options, but I agree that I've grown to really like stock fairly quiet exhaust systems. My Comanche's exhaust is all stock except for a Flowmaster FX muffler. It's the perfect amount of noise at idle without really hearing it while driving. Even it is pretty loud at startup as these trucks rev up pretty high at startup.

Having driven multiple vehicles with broken sway bars that were supposed to have them, I'd definitely fix your sway bar. It can be downright scary sometimes how much lean you get in an unexpected turn.

The big lever indicator is good, until your CAD doesn't connect. I always wait until the light comes on now be I wander off the beaten path. Been stuck in my field way too many times now.

I'd do as the others have suggested and swap over the AX-15 with the T case and leave the T case in 2WD. For the driveshaft, I'd have the XJ shaft lengthened or the MJ shaft shortened by a driveshaft shop. Should not be too expensive and is actually a fairly easy operation for the shop.

Hopefully so. I've heard good things about them, I'm willing to bet it will rust out way before it is mechanically not good. I do plan on undercoating it pronto to give it it's best shot. It's very different than any other car I've owned. Very light doors, tin can feeling, clearly a cheap car when it was new. That said it feels light and tossable and the engine is an absolute peach.