pizzaman09

Might be worth making a little adjustment to the dashpots on the yellow cruise control module. Take note of your original settings then make some adjustments, there is a centering adjustment that to me sounds like you need to turn up slightly. This is of course only going to help if it isn't a vacuum leak.

I assume that torque figure is at the input shaft of the transfer case. First gear on the AX-15 is 3.38 so you need to multiply your engine torque by 3.38 to get how much torque is going into the transfer case. There can also be a little more torque if you rev up and drop the clutch as the inertia of the flywheel also stores energy that becomes torque. Regardless, it is likely that for most any one with a 4.0 derived engine in their truck, there is not going to be an issue with strength of the NP231. More likely if you manage to send that much torque through your transfer case, your tires will break traction first, which limits torque getting to the ground.

I've been intrigued by the R2.8 a few times. My twin brother works for Cummins and sometimes they run good discounts for employees. I want to put one in my 99 BMW 328is project car. Not for the Comanche, the 4.0L is an awesome engine and 87 octane gasoline is much less expensive negating any benefits.

If you need any evidence to support how sturdy the NP231 is, Matt's off road recovery recently stated that the transfer case in their Cherokee (Banana) was the original NP231. That Jeep has a 4.6L stroker and has been beat on harder than most.

The light does tell you that the CAD engaged. The switch for the light is vacuum controlled based on a line coming off of the side of the CAD vacuum diaphragm when it has successfully shifted to 4WD.

I'm stubborn and have put much effort into making my CAD work and it does! Cleaned everything, put it back together, made sure the truck has no vacuum leaks. I make sure to shift it into and out of 4WD once most times I drive it to exercise the mechanisms and make sure it doesn't get bound up. Now the CAD instantly engages. When I first bought the truck it was very challenging to get it to engage. I don't disagree with wanting to eliminate the failure point of the 4WD system. I keep mine because I have dreams of someday incorporating some valves to allow for a 2WD low range as I find it quite useful when hitching up to trailers.

Having recently changed the output shaft seal on my factory installed AX-15 with NP231 T-case, I'd estimate that there is an extra inch of length the driveshaft could move into the t case at the slip yoke. So a quarter to half an inch could work with your stock shaft. If not, just take your driveshaft to a drive shaft shop and have it shortened. I had that done for another truck and it was easy and affordable. Same goes with if you need a different end installed, it's quite easy work for someone that is setup to do it.

Should all be possible, the Toyota R series transmissions were used in the Supra Turbo, and there are lots of people clearing 1000hp with those. I am not quite sure where to point you with that tidbit of info, but undoubtedly there are people applying parts to build up those transmissions which should translate to the AX-15.

How is your cooling system at holding pressure? I assume it's still the Renix closed system. My truck would run cool until it sat and idled, then it would spike in temperature. Replacing the expansion tank with a new one that didn't have a slow leak fixed everything.

Some solid advice here. I've can't think of a time that I've come across a set of stuck slide pins, I'll definitely check it out though. A few of the calipers I listed are fixed dual piston calipers, so they don't have slide pins. Usually, I've found stuck pistons due to corrosion and haven't figured a way to help prevent that. One of the challenges I run into is my twin brother drives 100 miles round trip for work each day. He runs our cars on basically desolate PA and NY highways. NY in particular uses an aggressive salt on I-86 and he doesn't really have to use the brakes during much of the drive. We are both light with the brake pedal except for in the BMW M3 when we auto cross it. I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one that has had this issue. I wish I could buy phenolic pistons for all my brakes.

I've owned many cars and the only common problem I've had with each and every one of them are sticking disc brake calipers. The result is an overheated brake and lots of vibration. Does anyone have tips to prevent this from happening? This has happened to me on the following vehicles: 02 BMW M5 (front caliper) 99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight (front caliper) 62 Austin Healey Sprite (front caliper) 13 Mini Cooper S (all 4 calipers independent times) 90 Jeep Comanche (front caliper) 99 BMW M3 (all 4 calipers multiple sets and brands, OEM, Centric, Wilwood) 09 Honda Civic Si (front caliper) I'm starting to think I'm cursed or just doing something wrong. It seems that most of the time the issue is corrosion related, but a couple of those vehicles never ever see salt. Are there any tips to prevent from having disc brake calipers not retracting?

The new parts like your master cylinder rust easily. I always paint mine prior to installing new ones to prevent rust. Sometimes I paint them black, other times with clear coat, both do a good job at preventing the flash rust. This is a super easy clutch to bleed, don't bother spending the extra money on a preassembled pre-bled system. I just gravity bled mine then had my brother help by pumping it once or twice while I manned the bleed screw. When I had the internal slave cylinder, mine would pull in air from the slave side past a bad seal. When the pedal would go soft, I could pull off the side of the road, crawl under, gravity bleed for about 10 seconds to get the air out then top off the master. Took all of five minutes.

I was surprised, I was expecting plastic but when I opened the box I found it to be metal. My only complaint or at least observation on the slave cylinder swap is that the clutch weight is about double compared to when it was with the internal cylinder. Your comment makes me wonder, could the later 91-96 slave cylinder be a different diameter (smaller) which would allow for a lighter external slave setup?

The adapter linked here is what I used to convert my AX-15 to external slave. It was an awesome kit. I learned two important lessons, 1st the throw out bearing will look uncentered when you receive it. The thrust bearing is spherical mounted and will center itself when used. 2nd do not cut the plastic things holding the pin in the slave cylinder! The plastic things center the pin for aligning with the clutch fork cup. I cut mine and it didn't align with the cup, launching the pin past the fork and resulting in a lot of fluid sent out of the slave cylinder front. To solve this I replace the really cheap plastic slave with a brand new metal one from O'Reilly's, and didn't cut the plastic things, they will automatically break on the first pedal push. This is the slave cylinder, it was surprisingly inexpensive and very high quality, made of metal rather than plastic. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/power-torque/power-torque-slave-cylinder/ptq5/cs2326?q=CS2326&pos=0

I highly recommend an external slave cylinder. I went through the misery of a replaced internal cylinder on an AX-15, it still leaked. The external slave conversion is completely worth it if the transmission is off.

Completed installing new window run seals on both doors. It is definitely quieter at speed than it was before, but not without wind noise at 65 mph. The lack of window rattle is nice.

You've had a lot of fun with yours.

Dana 44 but normal springs. Comes close to the bump stops, drives beautifully with a load or towing a trailer. 1600 lbs of concrete and a small utility trailer full of conduit. 1280 lbs of concrete and a rental 48" trecher.

Well done! I work for a company that is a competitor to 3M in the panel bonding adhesive market. It's darn impressive stuff and if used right will massively outperform a welded joint. I've used panel bonding adhesive to glue on bed sides, rocker panels and portions of floor pans. It has the nice added benefit of excellent corrosion protection. That said, I do quite like MiG welding these sorts of things too. One can start at one corner and tack and hammer until the metal is just where you need it.

It's an impressive build. I'm amazed that it's stock bearings and block, basically it held together with 1000hp.

I ended up even breaking the handle on the very nice Malco rivet tool trying to put in the stainless rivets I was attempting to put in. I gave in and purchased a box of 3/16" aluminum rivets, welded the handle back on the rivet tool and installed the rubber tailgate blocks easily.

The manifold bolts seem very likely based on the symptoms. Or any large vacuum leak.

I'm halfway through installation of the precision kit right now. It's nice.

Cable attachments are surprisingly standard. If you need to connect a weird cable to the dash, I'd get a short cruise control cable that attached between the dash and the speed sensor, then acquire an AMC cruise control speed sensor to connect it to the cable coming up from the T case. The cruise control sensor has a 5/8-18 thread. They also have adapters to convert the 5/8-18 thread to 7/8-18.

I ended up ordering a Malco, we'll see how it performs when it gets here. American made and very well reviewed. Marson was my second choice based on reviews I found. Arrow is the brand I just purchased and broke on the first rivet. 🙁