pizzaman09

I chased difficult to start issues on my 09 Honda Civic Si for three months. It got to the point where the only way it would start is by bump starting it. After throwing the parts canon at it, I discovered the ring gear on the starter was completely loose and spun freely around the flywheel. A mig welder and about 15 spot welds has fixed that problem. Thank goodness it has an inspection cover.

I have this problem on my 90 occasionally. I changed the front lines but it didn't do anything, next up is replace the calipers. Every vehicle I've ever owned has had this issue... It's the bane of my existence.

Yeah, it can be challenging to get the wire back down the column, I've been successful with the string method on my replacement stalk. It was still a very fiddly process.

I think every clutch I have ever changed in my life was an LUK, they all work great. According to the maintenance records for my MJ, the dealership that owned it put a LUK clutch in it, I've worked it harder than most people would with zero issues. My vote is LUK.

Absolutely awesome find. Extremely similar story to mine, where the original owner checked the same awesome options and it never left the town it was purchased in. AX-15, 4x4, 4.0L, Dana 44 with LSD is the dream drivetrain.

You might have a weak or shorting starter motor. If your cables are not corroded internally, I'd look at the starter. I am not familiar with where the solenoid is.

Is it possible that the throttle is propped open? Like is the gasket under the carb hanging up the butterflies or is the linkage not allowing the throttle to close all of the way. There is a lot of air getting into that engine.

I think this is it. There a few styles of automotive backlight bulbs but not too many. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-replenishment-bulb-639-041/11035251-P?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=11035251&adtype=pla&product_channel=online&store_code=&&&&&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=16396150519&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjo7DBhCrARIsACWauSkPT5IgcSNuOMJT4nyKpeYNQDBscG0OA_3Q5muVn_8vsAZy_6I-JXoaAmwqEALw_wcB

Power steering pulley puller. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-loaner-tool-power-steering-alternator-pulley-puller-kit-648605/9150040-p?product_channel=local&store=6268&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=6268&&&&&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=16404424460&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpf7CBhCfARIsANIETVof0o1hqtzNs5K-PC2T4hKau0svRFETh8eeWjxUIJxF71JRq_LFQmkaAnsDEALw_wcB

I rented the tool from advance auto, works very well for both removal and install if the pulley.

If you just want it to run, plug all loose lines going to the carb or intake manifold as they will be vacuum leaks. Alternativly, you can start plugging them back in where they belong. The goal is to eliminate as many vacuum leaks as possible as that will give it the best chance of running.

I third the fuel pump, I've had a similar issue on another car that turned out to be a failing fuel pump.

I've seen advertisements for their helper spring setup before. It looks logical to me. Let us know if you get it sorted out.

Sad to hear, I hope you recover well and quickly. I had an issue with my first Comanche. The adjuster showed up, looked at his system and told me that is said it was worth $200. He could tell it was clearly more valuable than that. I had said that I purchased it the week before, he asked me what I paid for it and he decided to set the total amount at that! Awesome service. I'd personally search BaT and a few other places for comparable drive train MJs. A 4.0L with 4x4 and a manual transmission is worth a lot more than a 2.5L 2wd auto.

A lot of good advice in this thread. I agree that this could and likely is a not fully disengaging clutch. I'd bleed it and see what happens. Also changing the trans fluid can be a good idea. I've personally used Royal Purple Syncromax in my AX-15 and it helped it shift better. I've also used MT-90 in transmissions in other cars with similar results. This is typical non syncro methodology. My Austin Healey has no syncro on first or reverse, I always shift into a synchronized gear, usually second to stop the shaft rotations.

You know what's funny, my 90 4.0L did the exact same thing the other day. It always takes a couple of seconds of cranking to start except for yesterday afternoon when I went to leave work, it fired off immediately.

I'd definitely love to do that sometime. Most years I do make way down to Pittsburgh for the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix, I like taking the Comanche to the show as it has AC.

You and that MJ have been on more of an adventure than most of us or our MJs will ever see.

I'd love to head down to the Jeep festival as it's just over an hour away from where I live. However I've got big plans this weekend installing solar panels. The Olympic edition is looking great!

I had this issue for a while, I had a small pressure leak that didn't allow it to build enough pressure to prevent the coolant from boiling. In my case I had a bad pressure bottle cap that had come with the new coolant bottle. I put the factory cap back on and it fixed the problem as it held a higher pressure.

Clicking is the result of something that is stripped and slipping. Could you get some appropriate riv-nuts to put into the 90 regulator to make it easy to install it?

I've used it once, on an 03 Ford Expedition lower plastic. It wasn't streaky. Specifically used the Cerakote wipes. Definitely follow the instructions, it's a very strong chemical product.

Nice! It's a satisfying job to finally get done.

Finally did the rear main seal today. So far it doesn't leak! It was previously getting unsustainably leaky.

Cerakote is good stuff, it holds up much better than most products I've come across for black trim. The CRV is looking great! I forgot that those trim pieces were supposed to be black.