pizzaman09

Nice! It's a satisfying job to finally get done.

Finally did the rear main seal today. So far it doesn't leak! It was previously getting unsustainably leaky.

Cerakote is good stuff, it holds up much better than most products I've come across for black trim. The CRV is looking great! I forgot that those trim pieces were supposed to be black.

It sure sounds like a worn out gear or something in the odometer itself, particularly if your speedometer works fine.

Hey hey! Yep that's me!

Absolutely agree, replace the line first, that's a fairly easy job. I've found with Comanche clutches, that gravity bleeding works very well, just open the bleeder at the slave and keep toping off the fluid at the master cylinder. Eventually close the slave bleeder and top it off one more time at the master.

That looks fantastic! Hopefully you avoid scratching it.

It's a tiny screw but if you are talented enough with a mig welder you could weld a small nut to the head and try to back the screw out.

I sure understand the desire for just straight up reliability, I strive for that myself and do struggle to find quality parts at times. Good luck with the build!

I'll restate what I said before, the way the bolted joint works is the bolts compress the wheel to the rotor and the rotor to the hub. Torque is transmitted to both through friction between the rotor and hub faces. The bolts should never be loaded in shear as that would very quickly break the bolts or studs in fatigue. There really is no technical issues with this rotor as the holes don't actually load against the studs. It will work fine. The only requirement is that you have the nuts torqued enough, like every wheel on any car.

Interesting, I assume you are talking about the rear shocks I would assume the front is pretty similar.

I took was on vacation visiting a friend near Hershey, PA. Hit up Indian Echo cavern, the Carlisle import and performance nationals car show, and the Strasburg Railway. If your ever in the area, I highly recommend the shop tour at the Strasburg Railway. I'm also slowly amassing parts for the Comanche, projects coming soon!

I'd check to see if your header bolts are tight. Also check to see if all of your header studs are still present, particularly the ones near the back of the head like to come loose and even back completely out.

That's fine. They must make the disk for two different bolt pattern wheels. The load transfer ina brake disk should really come from the clamping of the disk between the wheel and hub.

How do you like the adjustable Fox shocks? I've been eyeing those up for mine.

If I were to extend that, I'd make the cut between the little side window and the big side window. If you have lots of fiberglass skills, you could make it look perfect.

It was a slow drive, but a 12ft long pallet was moved in my short bed a few miles on back roads.

Does your Jeep have a speed sensor for cruise control? It would be a sensor in line with the cable about 12 inches from the speedo connection.

I went through this trouble on my AX-15. You say it is leaking at the master, I'd change that out before doing anything on the slave side. That said, when I was deal with clutch issues on my internal slave, it was sucking in air from somewhere. It was easy to hop under the truck, crack the bleeder, and let it bleed for 10 seconds until no air bubbles were seen in the fluid stream. Then I would top off the fluid. I needed a new slave cylinder and swapped to an external slave, resulting in a perfectly reliable clutch setup.

I did my headliner with some generic grey headliner material purchased on eBay. It was pretty easy to do, my only tip is to purchase Permatex or 3M "headliner adhesive," it's far stickier than spray on contact adhesives like 3M Super 77.

I have the Westin Fey bumper, no idea when it was installed but it was pretty mint when I purchased my truck, so probably about 4 years. It's beautiful, very nicely built, does have a bit of black silicone on it, that's fine. I love it, I town with a ball attached to it frequently, it says 3000lbs on it but I've towed around 5000 through it. I did weld a couple of chain hooks onto mine. I work for an aerospace parts supplier, it's been a serious struggle getting enough quality parts since COVID. Quite frustrating. The big aerospace companies really only care about one thing any more, can you deliver.

I have only ever had exceedingly positive comments/compliments on my Comanche. And it says Eliminator down the side. I'm of the opinion that there are far less people in this world that care about the woke topics than the media would have you think. Most people just want to live happy lives without being bothered. Luckily it's pretty easy to do that if one just doesn't follow the media.

Congrats! How'd you fix it?

I recently purchased an entire solar system for the reasons listed in this post. I forsaw prices going up, and they have.

I had a bad time with a new Bosch O2 sensor in mine, determined that shortly after installing my REM. I purchased an NTK sensor and it works flawlessly, super responsive and holds the AFR very close to ideal based on the REM readout.