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The steering knuckles turn on an angle so it does look "a little weird" the first time you pay attention. And the inverted Y link will change a little from lock to lock. These are normal behaviors for stock steering components. But if it's acting really weird and moving around a ton, you may have worn out steering components that need to be replaced.

You do make a good point here.

Yeah, there are a few old groups I used to frequent. But when I got the notice, I went back to look and they had been ghost towns for years. I'm honestly surprised they weren't shut down years before.

Maybe a typo?

Here's a somewhat incomplete list. It's important to note that many of these transmissions (mostly the automatics but at least one manual) had an integrated AMC specific bellhousing that will bolt up to the 4.0 without adapters. If you get one with a different bellhousing, it won't bolt up. The manuals mostly have removable bellhousings that are AMC specific As long as you can find the right bellhousing, any donor should bolt up. Stock XJ: Aisin AW4 - 4 speed automatic (Best option for "easy" bolt up to a 4.0 in an XJ) Peugeot BA10/5 - 5 speed manual (weak transmission, not worth the effort to swap in) Aisin AX15 - 5 speed manual (good solid trans, best overall candidate for a manual transmission swap) NVG3550 - 5 speed manual (good trans that replaced the AX15 late in the XJ production) TJ and YJ (Wrangler) with the 4.0 (4 cylinder transmissions are different and not good candidates behind a 4.0): Chrysler 32RE/32RH - 3 speed automatic "E" is electronically controlled, "H" is hydraulic (no need for computers) Chrysler 42RLE - 4 speed automatic. Not a great transmission and the computer will make it difficult to swap in. Peugeot BA10/5 - same piece of junk as the XJ. Aisin AX15 - same as XJ NVG3550 - same as XJ NSG370 - 6 speed manual trans in the last 2 or 3 years. Weaker than the AX15 and NVG3550. Not the best swap candidate. ZJ (Grand Cherokee) with the 4.0 (V8 has different bellhousing): Chrysler 42RE - not the same as the TJ. The computer makes it difficult to swap. AX15 - same as XJ, but very rare. Going back further to the 258 (pre-4.0) version of the engine, you get a bunch of options from early YJs, CJs, Full Size Jeeps and AMC cars. All of the automatics listed below will be fully hydraulic (i.e. no computer). Most of these do not have overdrive. Most of these will be difficult to swap into an XJ. Borg Warner T5 (AMC cars and CJs) - light duty 5 speed manual with overdrive. (not the best option behind a 4.0) Chrysler 904 (became the 30RH), 998/999 (became the 32RH) - medium duty 3 speed automatics (bigger number is stronger) Chrysler 727 (mostly in full size jeeps 1980-1991) - heavy duty 3 speed automatic GM TH400 (mostly in Jeep CJ and full size Jeeps) - heavy duty 3 speed automatic Tremec T176/177/178 - medium duty 4 speed manual in CJs and full size Jeeps Tremec T150 - medium duty 3 speed manual Warner T14 - medium duty 3 speed manual Warmer T15 - medium duty 3 speed manual Warner T18 - medium duty close ratio 4 speed manual Warner T18a - medium duty wide ratio (i.e. first gear is a granny low) 4 speed manual. For transmissions that can be adapted to the 4.0, see http://www.novak-adapt.com/ and https://www.advanceadapters.com/

Given the lack of aftermarket support for the MOPAR, especially when compared to the Chevy V8, I would have a hard time convincing myself to do that swap. However, being different and doing something that isn't the same as everyone else does have its own appeal.

Bummer. Every time I get in a hurry to just finish it so I don't have to f with it any more, I always make mistakes like that.

Coolant has changed a lot in the last 10 years. There's at least 3 or 4 new types of coolant on the market. Some only lasted a few years before being replaced by something else. For a few of them, mixing is a "bad thing" so don't do it. For my XJ and MJs, I stick to the old fashioned green coolant that's been around forever. Though I have seen some "mix with anything" replacement coolant at the parts store.

Why not use a mild build 350? It would be cheaper since you're not adding all of the expensive speed parts.

Engine swaps are never cheap. And when it comes down to it, the cost of the engine is a very small part of it. It ends up being about the same cost to swap a V8 over a V6.

According to my quick Google searches: The 4.0 is 515 pounds. A Chevy 4.8/5.3/6.0 iron block with factory aluminum heads is around 520 pounds. An aluminum LS1 weighs in at around 430 pounds. A Gen I small block chevy with Iron heads and intake weighs upwords of 575 pounds. An LS V8 swap won't add any more weight to the nose of the XJ than the heavy 4.0 pig.

Another case to consider would be the Chevy NP241 that came in the 1/2 ton and some 3/4 ton trucks. It's an upgrade over the 231 (and 207) and bolts right up in place of a 208 that would have come behind the SM465.

All I want is a Pepsi and she wouldn't give it to me All I wanted was a Pepsi, just one Pepsi And she wouldn't give it to me, just a Pepsi

Give him a break. At least he has a red flag on the oversize load...

The reason I'm looking into it is that I'd like to have more gauges than the factory offers. I can pack a speedometer/tach combo and a matching full size gauge with the 4 basics. That leaves me room for 4 more gauges that I can add for whatever. I can add a transmission temp gauge, an air pressure gauge for my OBA system, or even pressure gauges on the air lockers. Oil temp, which is usually not far off from water temp, is something useful to monitor. An air/fuel gauge is helpful as well. A fuel pressure gauge would help with diagnostics. If I do a diesel swap, having a boost gauge and EGT is essential in my book, The Cummins R2.8 comes with its own smaller gauge for engine status that I would need to fit. Sure, I could run the full factory dash and then find pods for the other gauges. But a well designed dash replacement with aftermarket gauges is cleaner and everything is all right there in one place. I don't have to look around the cabin to look at all of the gauges.

The 30 and 44 both use the same yoke. I just rebuilt a 30/44 combo to swap into my XJ. Bought two identical yokes with ubolts, one for each axle.

Pretty much all Dana 30 axles are 27 spline. There is a "super 30" kit that upgrades it to 30 spline axle shafts but he'd probably call that out in the description if that were the case. As far as the R&P, I would shy away from trying to install used gear sets. They never go in quite right. And just about all shops won't install used gears. The few that do won't warranty anything about their work. Since every axle housing is just a little bit off, you can't just reuse the existing shims that may come with the gears. The carrier sounds like what you need but I'd spend the few bucks on getting a brand new set of gears. Given the overall cost of a gear swap, the extra for good parts that can be warrantied is worth it. The rear Dana 44 has 30 spline shafts from the factory. The AMC20 would have 29 spline shafts, and the Dana 35 would have 27 spline shafts. The Dana 44 and 35 both have upgrades available to bigger shafts, but only in the aftermarket. I don't know what 95b means. May be a typo.

Oh, and one more thing that helps me. Noise cancelling headphones while I listen to music. They're great at blocking out distractions when I want to concentrate on something.

Coming home aching, sweaty and stinking isn't bad when it's after a day of wrenching on your hobby project once in a while. I wouldn't want to do it for a living.

The exercise would break up the day, which helps. And exercise is just good for you no matter what. Especially when you're physically idle at a desk all day.

Here's a better picture of the thing I'm looking at duplicating. I'd organize the gauges a little better than these are, more like the picture above.

I've searched on XJ gauges and have seen some things. I've been looking at fabricating an aluminum piece that can go in place of the dash cluster at least, and maybe the panel to the left of the gauges. It looks like there's plenty of room to fit gauges there. I found this picture on a google search.

I went straight through college to a desk job so I don't have any direct advice on the transition. I suspect you're likely to go a little stir crazy at first. One thing I do is to break up the desk work on a somewhat regular basis. Step away from your desk several times a day. I do a half hour walk each morning before lunch. Go somewhere else for lunch, even if you just go to a break room. You can even do a few minutes of stretching exercises at your desk a few times each day. If anyone says anything, just explain you need to do it for ergonomic reasons to help your back. Best of luck to you.

Fair enough. A donor TJ axle would be perfect to match in that case.

Add me to the list of "interested".