derf

If it's music you like it's good music.

I'm working on that. I'm going to have to run some extra wires. I'm probably going to cut the factory harness and put different plugs on so it's a quick disconnect.

Bets on how long until you lose one?

Got the first round of replacement dash gauge layout taken care of. I'm going to fabricate a flat steel or aluminum sheet metal replacement for the plastic dash piece, including the lights on the left. I've been measuring and measuring. I got a basic template sized up. And I'm using poster board for the first template or two. Obviously, I'm going to move a few things a little for round 2. But it pretty much all fits. Gauges, beyond the obvious speedometer are, left to right, top row: Air pressure (on board air), Tachometer, Water Temp, Fuel level (all Autometer Z-series). Bottom row (all Autometer Autogage): Temp (oil), Oil Pressure, Temp (Transmission), Voltmeter.

Start regular morning exercise now. And get used to getting up at oh-my-god-its-early. If you're already in the routine, I'll make the transition easier.

We're getting some much needed moisture so I'm not gonna complain too much.

Dana 35. 4.10 most likely. Auto or manual?

Makes sense.

Not so much here...

It's a blast. You should have it high on your "to do" list. But then clean the truck afterwords and it will lose some of the appeal.

Mud is fun. Until you have to clean and maintain the vehicle you drive in it. Mud gets into everything. It is murder on seals. It will sneak into your diffs and you need to clean it out. It finds it's way inside the frame and stays there along with all the moisture so it promotes rust. It can even get into your transfer case, transmission, and engine. I like driving someone else's truck in mud.

I would change the process slightly. When bleeding the rear valve and you have the front open, depress the pedal and hold it. Then close both valves before letting up. Repeat as necessary.

Makes sense.

Having a bleeder open when you release the pedal sucks air in through the bleeder.

Right now, my cab is filled with parts I will be using once I get time and budget to work on the conversion to tons. Once it's up and running, it'll be mostly a trail rig. The bed will be filled with all the tools and spares I will need, along with things like a fire extinguisher on the roll bar/cage. Mostly, the cab will be empty except for me and the radios I have hooked up.

Random thought. I may or may not have been involved in doing this once myself Did you get the front calipers installed on the correct sides? The bleed screw should be on the top. If you swap them, they will fit but the bleed screw will be on the bottom and the air won't bleed out.

¿Por qué no los dos? Really you can't go wrong with either. I'd lean to the burrito if I had to. Cummins, Power Stroke, or Duramax?

I love Evapo-Rust on small parts. It's convenient and cheap. Soak it overnight and it comes out clean. Minor prep (rinsing and final degreasing) and it's ready for a good coat of paint. For big parts, I use some kind of rust converting primer. Paint it on and wait for it to cure (and convert the rust). Then paint over it.

A couple that came up today.

One thing that occured to me. Now that everyone is getting vaccinated I'm going to need to find different excuses to avoid going out and socializing.

I did the Teraflex kit on a 44 from an 87 XJ I swapped into my 01 XJ. It is the easy button for sure. Just order the main kit for the axle you have. Order parking brake cables for the Jeep it's going in to. Bolt it up and go. Three things with the kit: 1. The lug studs on the axle are too short. Dorman 610449 wheel studs work well. 2. 15" wheels don't fit well. You can grind down the caliper but I wouldn't. I just went to 16" wheels. 3. The kit is not cheap.

Any CJ/YJ/TJ/LJ is an old Jeep at this point. They haven't made a TJ/LJ in 16 years. And the others are older So while they're generally reliable (at least compared to their contemporaries), they are old and things wear out no matter what. I wouldn't avoid them arbitrarily. But for a daily driver, I would be very thorough going through one and evaluating every single thing on them to make sure they're in good shape. Check any of them for rust and worn out drivetrain/interior. If you find one in good running order you're going to pay more for it but it would be worth it. Of course, people put a high price tag on rusty junk so don't just assume that a high price Jeep is in good shape. Don't be scared of older Jeeps. But don't trust anyone when buying one. Get under the Jeep and give it a thorough look. Verify that it's in good shape. And then buy with confidence.

Unfortunately, there's probably no good way to avoid that. Best thing to do is to be 100% open up front. Most people should be reasonable if you're honest with them. I think if I was wanting a bed I'd be fine chipping in more gas money to make it happen.