derf

The rear is a solid axle with coil springs. The smaller Bronco Sport is just a re-bodied Escape with a car suspension. Totally different vehicle. The new Bronco looks like it has potential once they get production figured out.

Oh, I'd remove/bypass it once it broke. But if it ain't broke yet...

Yeah, 10 Nm isn't much. The 80 MPH will have a much bigger negative impact than that. Still, at reasonable speeds that little bit of reduced effort will add up. I wouldn't go to any length to add it. But if it's there I wouldn't put effort to remove it either.

There is some speculation it is tied to the CAFE fuel economy numbers that are coming up soon. With all of the 4xe Jeeps and the hybrid additions to the other engines, they might hit that number.

Yeah, it's not even worth $10K, much less $100k.

Bleed the clutch. Make sure it's full. Or replace the master cylinder.

The Subaru was just reliable basic transportation. And there are a few things I don't love about the XJ. Besides, I can always buy another one.

So yeah, I did a thing yesterday. New 2021 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon diesel. I had the dealer install some 35x12.5/17 Duratracs. I'm going to keep it close to stock otherwise. Probably add some armor and radios (CB, ham, and GMRS). It's going to do light duty tails and be my daily driver. I traded in my Subaru and I'll be selling the XJ soon. I already pulled the end caps off the front bumper.

He probably means torsion...

I have been looking into this as well. The biggest thing is getting the extra shift detent for the 4L60. You need PRND321 but the stock column is PRND21 or PRND3L (the 1-2 is L for the AW4). From what I gathered, you can cannibalize another GM column shift and swap over the parts you need. I believe the column from a later 80s Chevy G20 van should work. You do have to take the detent plate off the donor and put it in place of the one in the Jeep column. That should get you all the shift positions. Then from there you can use a Lokar universal shift cable to go from the column to the transmission.

Moab was $3.37. Grand Junction was $3.17. I didn't pay attention to what it is when I got home.

The most expensive and frustrating swaps I've done have been trying to make free parts work.

Don't waste your time on a WJ 4.7. It's not a good swap candidate for many reasons. It's too big to fit, it doesn't make much power, and the heads like to drop valve seats. Also, there is zero aftermarket for them. A stroker 6 cylinder will come out to about 4.6/4.7 and give you more power and reliability.

No idea. But since you're modifying, you should get the axle and transfer case installed first. Then measure from the end of the slip yoke on the transfer case to the yoke on the axle. Then you can have it exactly right with no chance of it being too short or too long. A shop can shorten a shaft in about an hour or two and they know how to work with the measurements to make it right. They can also swap in new ujoints quick and easy which is entirely worth it.

Your 2wd rear driveshaft won't even come close to fitting behind a transfer case. And if you don't have a slip yoke eliminator you can't run without a rear shaft. Measuring for the rear shaft modification is a known thing and easy to do. Then take the shaft to the shop in a different vehicle, have them shorten it, take it home, and install it. If you find a 4wd rear shaft from a Comanche with the same bed size, it would probably work. But the 2wd shaft is a hard no.

Adding a transfer case takes a foot or so out of the rear driveshaft. The 8.25 may have a longer pinion than a Dana 35. If you find a stock 4x4 rear driveshaft for your bed length it will probably work. The stock 2wd shaft will be way too long. But getting it shortened is easy and not expensive.

I would love to do a 2.8 Cummins swap. Unfortunately, the emissions laws in CO prevent it. Any swap I can do has to come from a vehicle in the <8600 GVWR weight class from my year or newer (1987) that was certified in the US. Or one with a CARB EO number (like GM E-Rod crate motors). The 2.8 was never released in a US vehicle like that and Cummins didn't do CARB certification. So it's LS from a donor for me.

I ended up getting started with Ryobi batteries so I got their impact gun. It's fine for basic jobs but it doesn't have the oomph to tackle really serious jobs. It's good for 99% of what I do. If something is really stuck I have my oxy-acetylene rig to persuade it.

Hit me up next winter. We'll turn you into a snow driving pro in no time.

I can't tell what brand it is but that's a "lunchbox" locker. It's a spring loaded automatic locker. It will clunk as you go around corners. That is normal. Different brands sound different.