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I'm going to be out that way week before Labor Day. I don't have much vacation to burn beyond that.

I've had this project for a while. Making slow progress on it. It's a 1997 F250HD 4x4 with the 7.3 diesel. It has some body damage and the engine wasn't running. But I got it for a steal. Turns out the #2 cylinder was toast. 160 PSI compression when the rest were around 360. So it sat for a bit. I did post a pic of the MJ with the engine in the back. It sits... a little low with that much in the back. I have a donor for the sheet metal and other bits. It has a running and driving 460/E4OD 2wd powertrain that will be for sale. I also swapped in a Dana 60 from an F350 to replace the TTB Dana 50 that was in it. That's a lot easier to do with no engine in the way. I found myself with a couple days off so i got the 7.3 torn down and ready for the machine shop. The MJ makes for a good workspace for that. I'm going to be working on this over the summer. It should end up being a good tow rig to haul the MJ when I get it done next year.

I started to look at the R2.8 swap but it won't pass emissions here. It was never sold in a production vehicle in the US. So I started looking at a TDI swap. There are companies out there that will rework a factory harness to be a standalone setup. Just hook up a couple of power leads (battery, switched power from the key, a starter wire) and some grounds. There are adapters for the AX15. The AW4 is computer controlled so you'd have to do some custom work there. You'll need to figure out an intercooler. There's room to have an air to water setup. Or build a custom core support that lets you run air hoses to an air to air intercooler. Other than that it's normal engine swap stuff. Custom motor mounts, custom radiator and heater hoses, custom AC lines. You'll probably want to get a fresh replacement fuel tank and set up a lift pump that can handle diesel. Exhaust will be fully custom. It's a do-able swap. But you'll need a healthy budget for all the little stuff that adds up well into 4 or even 5 figures.

There are lots of options. From guides on what parts to find and do it on the cheap to various kits to full crate engines. It just depends on your budget. Look up the information listed above. As far as emissions, that depends on your build. A mild camshaft and the right injectors will let you run a factory computer and be in the right spot to pass a sniffer test.

It's getting harder and harder to find parts for an AMC V8. And the 401 doesn't take an overbore very well. I'd focus on the 360 if I was going to swap in an AMC these days. Though I'm much more likely to take out an AMC and replace it with a GM or Ford V8. Those are a lot easier to find parts for. That would be my plan if I go back to full size Jeeps.

The 360 is a physically large engine. You can make it fit but it will take a lot of custom work. And nobody makes any swap kits that will help. I'd go with a 3.4 from a GM F body (Camaro/Firebird). Grab the whole wiring harness with the engine and it's a straightforward swap. If the donor has the 4L60 automatic, I'd keep that as well. Easy to adapt it to the Jeep t-case (or just run it as 2wd if that's what you have). That way you get a pretty good overdrive.

I have looked into a Liberty CRD swap in the past and it required ABS inputs to run the computer right, or so I've been told. That may be more important with the 545RFE behind the CRD than it is for the 3.7 and its transmission. My hazy memory tells me the NP242 in the KJ did away with the speed sensor in the tail housing. Some transmissions have a tail shaft VSS that the computer uses to manage shifting decisions. Others rely on wheel speed sensors and some arithmetic for the controller to know what to do.

I believe it also relies on ABS sensors to shift the transmission as well as display speed on the speedometer so you'd have to work that out too.

3D trail in Moab. First day of Easter Jeep Safari.

Yeah, for the automatic, make sure you run the appropriate auto trans fluid. It's not all the same and it matters what goes in. Put the same stuff in the NP231. That's a little more flexible in what it can take but if you run the same in the trans and t-case it's easier to keep track of.

At one point I was up to 6 battery terminal cleaning tools and 4 Dana 44 hub nut sockets once I found it all after a move. I force myself to keep the number of total project (active and pending) as low as possible. And I've started using bins and ziplock backs to keep things organized when I pull stuff apart.

We started doing videos documenting the install of some custom stuff on April's TJ in a new channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmrpOopAoBKrQ7icaAHAoDA It's really more focused on the technical stuff and not so much on being entertaining. That and I have a face for radio and a voice for print. So I don't expect it to be a big hit channel. But some people may find it interesting. Once I get my MJ build going again, I'll probably document the process here.

I've driven across Kansas and Nebraska. I know exactly the kinds of scenery you're talking about.

I've been doing road trips my whole life, including going from Iowa to North Dakota and back to visit the grand parents over Christmas. Road trips can be fun if you like to drive. For winter driving up north, pack cold weather survival gear just in case. Shovel, sand/kitty litter, sleeping bag, warm clothes, at least one day of food/water. Tire chains if they're legal where you are would be good. Stop regularly. Get out and walk around. Get the blood flowing. I find 1.5 hours to be a little too often but everyone is different. Don't let your gas tank get below ¼. Fill up when you stop. Keep hydrated but if you drink too much you'll need to stop more often. 12 hours in one day is a looong day. Plan stopping to get some sleep along the way. Some places don't like you sleeping in your car in their parking lot. A cheap motel off the highway is a better option in my book. Pack plenty of what you like to listen to. Music is my go-to. A lot of people like audio books. Keeps your brain active so you don't zone out and nod off. Podcasts are good for that too, assuming you get good cell phone coverage. Download stuff ahead of time to fall back on. I like to keep a paper road atlas in the car with me as a backup, especially if you use your phone/tablet as your GPS. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Michelin-North-America-Road-Atlas/dp/2067250175/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=7E5Q5R9RRP0T&keywords=road+atlas+michelin&qid=1645507854&sprefix=road+atlas+michelin%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-3

I suppose the long wheelbase helps...

Yeah, back when you could find an album with more than 1 song on it you wanted to listen to. That's one where the whole album makes in into my playlist. I've been going back through the classic arcives lately myself.

That calculator allows you to put in the manufacturers revolutions per mile number from their specs. If you use that instead of the advertised outside diameter the results tend to be pretty dead on.

Just on anecdotal experience, I'd prefer an ARB locker over an OX. But I have no direct experience with either of them.

I had an XJ with limited slip front and rear. It did fine on trails rated up to about a 6-7 in Moab. Went all over hell's revenge with it. No problems. I did bypass the harder lines on the obstacles. As soon as you get a tire or two in the air, you're not going very far. So I couldn't tackle everything in that Jeep. My old J10 had Eaton E-Lockers front and rear. My 2012 JK had them as well. My new Rubicon has factory selectable lockers. I love having selectable lockers. They are easy to drive with and lock up quickly when you push the button. And then you can get yourself into all sorts of trouble fun. Unlimited budget, I'd do selectables front and rear. And I'd probably do Eaton E-Lockers instead of ARB since I don't need an air source (saves several hundred). That tire rotation time really doesn't make a big difference on the trails in the real world. Next step down would be TrueTrac front, Eaton back. From there, TrueTracs front and rear. Below that, TrueTrac rear, open front. Last choice, open front and rear.