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I could see some saying underneath it. 'Its a Jeep thing, that most Jeepers don't known about."

Also, I'd check the aluminum spacer for the steering box. I like to replace them with an aftermarket steel one. I did have a broken one on my '00 XJ.

'Why are you guys doing anything inside the cab to remove the steering shaft? All you need to do is loosen both bolts and the steering gear box. There is no need to loosen the steering column for this job' Its been a few years sine I did this. So, yes a fuzzy memory. Still, I don't remember having to take off the steering gear box.

I generally, remove the bolt at the steering box. Get a prybar in there and push off that end. The end in the cab is a bit more challenging. I think more because I have to flip on my back. Still, I remember a bolt or two. There is a rubber seal on the firewall. I remember it being different for the earlier models. So up to '95.

To confirm, the shaft from the steering gear box to the steering column? I could cause issues if worn out. I did buy a Borgesson, yet I haven't installed it yet. I don't think the ones I 'replaced' or took out and put back in was terrible. Probably Video instruction on the web somewhere.

Also, I use KYB Monomax shocks up front. YJ ones. On the rear I use some white box ones from IRO. Probably Rancho 200's. Didn't quire balance well. I put in some Rancho 8000 Adjustable on the mid setting. I like it better. I used some Raybestos E3 brake lines that are for a 3.5-4.5 lift. YJ as suggest by Pete would be a good start. OK, auto or manual? Auto, I like 4.10 gears for a 31's. On a manual, 3.55's should be about right. I did have stock steering on a '98 with 31 X 10.5. Did OK. I did have a Rusty's Track bar on that. I was at 4.5 lift. Maybe a ZJ's steering setup. I forget what in the ZJ's steering is a bit beefier. Also, what Year MJ? The older pre 90's had different brake setup. So, might be able to go with a larger brake rotor.

I have an XJ with Metric tires at about 31" by 9.5 and a 2 inch lift. Really like how it drives. I went with IRO 2" springs, Ford 8.8 rear and Crown Upcountry rear Leafs. If on a tight budget, I'd go with the Pete plan. Then upgrade as needed. I used some rims for a 2000 XJ, that are 16". I needed them for the WJ Big Brakes. I planned a semi budget build. It went out of control. If I have to do it over, I'd go with Old Man Emu front and rear springs at 1.75" lift.

I have CORE teir 1, JKS and Rusty's upper and lower control arms. Rusty's has changed their design since. I like COREs. Good basic design, and a good price. JKS is good too. I do have the control arm brackets like the OP pictures. With the cam bolts it works good. I think TJs have them.

Yeah, I'm running the same. Been probably 5-8 years. I have a Ford 8.8 in the rear. I did do the Yukon upgrade shafts on an XJ. So, no spacers. The Yukon comes with 5on4.5 and 5on5.5. I plan to redrill to 5 on 5 on another XJ. Then adapt WJ rear brakes. Also looking to go to 13 inch rotors at some point.

Mine are 265/70r17.

I thought they went with a higher grade of bearings to help with MPG when going from the CAD. ???

I've have/had some Metric that are about 32-33's and 10.5 on an XJ. It was an auto and 4.10's. Did OK. I had to limit the steering radius a bit. I also did a header, CAT back and a bore TB. Did good on flatlands of IN. Did Ok in the mountains of WV. I was getting about 17 mpg on the highway. So, unless your doing some of the Passes out West, then I'd think you'd be OK.

Mine are 265/70R17 Falken Wild Peaks.

I have some metric tires that at between 32 and 33 on a 4.5 lift. This was on a '98 XJ. The tire width is about 10.5. I was using WJ rims. I did have to have the bump stops limit the turning radius a bit. This was with a WJ Big Brake setup. I did not run spacers. I did use WJ hub bearings.

Yes, pulling the fuse requires manually shifting. I did a few trips with this. Like 400 to 600 miles one way. Watch out, you have to brake or slow down to down shift. If your trans operates manually, then its an electrical problem. I would change the fluid a few times. If not pull the pan, clean the pan and magnets. Now electrically, the AW4 is controlled by 5 or more electrical components. The TSP being one of them. There are three solenoids in the AW4. They can be checked by a plug up by the trans dipstick. They should check 10 to 16 ohms. Yours should have one speed sensor. It can be checked. It is a Hall effect sensor. As I know it, you have to use an analog ohm meter. Then rotate the shaft manually. It should blip on and off. Also, the ECM, NSS (might need cleaned and greased (lithium grease). Make sure your battery is good. The Trans ECU also. And there is the brake light switch. Maybe check it. It might be corroded. Replace if needed. Mine was a '98. So two speed sensors. I replaced the solenoids, put in a shift kit. Cleaned the NSS (range selector). It was the out put speed sensor. 98 and up have two speed sensors.

Money sent.

As for cost on the engine: NOS Block $400 Pistons $300-$350 Hypereutectic and coated Machining to fit new pistons $400 Crankshaft $400 NOS Takeoff Heads used : $200 Junkyard Machining of heads $400 Valves $200 or more, Powell Cam Valves Springs $125 LSexcelleration Keepers, retainers etc $200 Powell Cams and Alex's Parts Camshaft $400 (can do cheaper) So, then there are rocker arms, push rods, valve covers oil pump, water pump and ... I did 'upgrade' on my Avalanche's motor. I did have the alternator rebuilt and the starter rebuilt , $90 each.

Why is it not 'Technically' an LS? Anyways, your should be a Gen 3 block. I'd look at Limey's swap thread, 'Comanche Dawn'. I'm in the parts gathered, need to assemble phase. I built am building my engine from an NOS Gen 3 block and 243 heads. The market has changed or progressed in the past 3 years when I started. At least on camshafts. I bought a Comp Cam with .530 lift. It went into my Avalanche. Truck cams came out about a year latter. Now I'm looking at a VVT camshaft. I'm also going with a 4L60E trans. I think there is a shift now to go with the 4L80E in the market. 70Barracuda and Limey's are two that I've seen at Carlise. Both well done.

This is what I have: Everstart Maxx BC50BE 15 Amp Automatic Battery Charger | eBay

Everstart Maxx. Mine is the 50 amp model. There is a specific 'reconditioning' mode. It does have a start engine button. I looked on Ebay. I didn't find one. I didn't search for it specifically. The Dewalt looked like it. Also, there is a US manufacture in the NAPA book. Looks just like it. $700 though. I also have a SOLAR 'triangle' one , and a Carlise. Both automatically recondition the batteries. They also charge AMG batteries. The Everstart doesn't.

Some of the new ones will 'recondition' batteries. I bought 2 from NAPA. Two different brands. I liked the Yellow one the sell. It was on sale at the time. The other is Blue. Both sort of automatically recondition the battery. I think $80 though. I have another one I like a bit better. I borrowed my neighbors and liked it. I had to search Ebay for one like it. Seems more control over what mode I want. And your previous one, looks way more modern than the steel Sears one I still have. Yeah, good to pump some juice straight into a dead battery. I fly RC, some lithium batteries. One guys Transmitter pack was dead. I used a regular field charger to get it up to 10 volts. Then finished it on a LiPo charger. Yeah, on top of my cars engine. I was worried about a LiPo fire at the time.

Also, if you park on an incline, nose up, there is less coolant that comes out.

Yeah, and its mo fun, if you have ABS to deal with.

Dealership if you can. Not sure if Stant is any good anymore. There is a new vender Colorstat. Not sure on it though. Some might be made in the US. If you use EBay, then a Carrol. I do have a few. Do you have a Federated Parts store around you? I am not sure what they carry. Robert Shaw is being produced again. Not sure of the quality. I did buy a Stewart from the same company. Stewart is for High Flow water pumps. See if others have a recommendation. I might be able to spare a Carrol or an ASG.

OK, I'm in Indiana. So, basically, the same weather. It would be OK to run a 205 F. I still prefer a 193 to 197F. My Xjs run about 205 F in the Summertime. Once your T-stat is fully open, your system will rise to its cooling efficiency level or Temp. So, the T-Stat sort of control the low side of the Temp. What I am hoping, is your T-Stat is in Failed Open or broke apart. Thus in Failed open mode. So, the oil is not getting warm to hot enough to boil off water. So, possibly adding to much moister into the blow by or emissions. Its a stretch. Check your oil. Is it clear or even a bit off color, or dark brown or even black? Then ok. If milky brown, then it is getting water in it. I'd check the spark plugs. I might try a Valve Cover breather for a temp fix. Still, be aware it might affect Idle and acceleration.