75sv1

Harmonic balancer, timing chain. Oil pump. Stock valve spring up to '95 should be good for .450 lift. I'd have new cam bearings installed. Check the wear for the distributor. New cap, rotor and wires. Brass cap and rotor.

I have dome Ford 4 holes, and 12 holes. The engine seemed to run smoother with the Ford 4 holes. I did not notice and MPG or power increase. With the 12 holes, I originally noticed a power increase. Then with in a week it was back to stock power. ???? I do think the ECU corrects back to its 'normal' as best it can. Also, injectors are rated to a fuel flow rate and pressure. So, without tuning the ECU to the change, it is questionable as to any improvements or not. There are some who have upped there Fuel regulator PSI, and had good results.

Oh, Chevy Avalanche. I like mine.

I guess most of you haven't had to deal with 'Rolling Coal'?

Might check the speed sensor. Should be one. The latter 98+ have two. I had a failure like yours. I replaced the shift solenoid. Did a Transgo shift kit. Nada. Neighbor did a scan test. Couldn't check the speed sensor, but everything else checked good. Replace the rear one. Trans worked.

An explorer was captured by a tribe of cannibals. They ate eat him. Everything except this thing. Why? They heard "Things go better with Coke."

ked up an 80 AMP Castle Creations Thunderbird controller and an ATXi 2820-8 motor for $20 this past weekend. I'll have to see if the motor is big enough for a Great Planes Stuka I bought. The Speed Controller will be an upgrade from the off shore one. I put a Thunderbird in a Flyzone FW-190. Really helped.

Rock'em Sockem Robots?

Pellas were rated very high some years back. Still, might be.

Its been a while since I installed windows in my house. I used Kolbe and Kolbe and some Marvin windows. I did 2 pane windows back then. I'd go 3 pane, especially where you are at. The place I delt with was a distributor. So a bit better pricing. I shimmed then level, then nailed them in place. Mine was new construction. I remember they had exterior flanges, that have nail slots. Also, tape seamed those flanges. Then I uses the spray foam. I used the 'hard stuff in the corners. Then the soft stuff on the top and side, from the inside. I am doing vinyl windows on my Mobile home in WV. Still, not cheap.

Also, there is an installation tool, to install the harmonic balancer. The stock bolt is a bit short. It is not advised to smack or hammer on the harmonic balancer. Cast Iron can be brittle. A bit loner bolt from the hardware store might do. Also, if you pull the head off, then check for cylinder wear. Look at the top of the cylinder. See if there is a ridge or not.

On the harmonic balancer. There was some squealing with the accessory belt. I did not catch the harmonic balancer for some time. You can put a white line mark crossing the hub and outer ring. If the out line of that moves, then its bad. Mine was past bad. I'd look at the elastomer. If any cracks in it, replace it. They are $40 to $50. I do replace the timing chains on mine. If you get the cover off, the chain should not deflect more than 1 inch. That is from pushed in and pushed out. Get a set and not just the chain. The 'silent' or stock chain might be stronger than the roller chains. At least according to an article I read. The issue is at 5K RPM. A silent chain starts to stick. I do have a 2000 XJ with about 280K. I don't know if the head has been changed. It was OK. I have been around two of them, that the head cracked at 80K. They were well maintained. Seems the #6 cylinder has more issues with cracked pistons. I'd pull the valve cover and check the rocker arms. If OK, then the oil pan. A bit of a pain if not lift. Then the head. Or just pull the whole engine and inspect. See if it needs work and what work. I mentioned Car-Parts Inc in my previous post. Still, Junkyard motors can be iffy. I got burned on mine. Head was warped and someone put a boatload of Barrs Seal in it.

Mine was that the harmonic balancer went bad. I suggest on replacing it. The copper flakes is probably one of the bearings going bad. I'd think the main thrust bearing. That's what went bad on mine, when the harmonic balancer went bad. I snagged another crankshaft from a neighbor, and the bearings. The bearings looked new. The original crankshaft had damage to the thrust bearing surface. I have a few machine shops left in my area that do engines. I'd have the cam bearing replaced if you take the engine out. Another option is Car-Pats Inc. You can search for parts in your region or across the US, Mexcio and Canada.

Also, check the wobble on the distributor shaft. You should not feel 'any'. I think the specs are .001.

Does it have an O2 sensor? Also, I'd check the cap and rotor. Get a brass terminal one if you can.

Wrangler???

My need for one, is that I jump started a Dodge Neon probably 20 years ago. Yeah, before they came out. It blew my brake light switch in my 96 Ford Contour. Then I had electrical issues after that. Maybe the squirrel that popped out from under the hood, has a doings in that. I'd have to check, which one I have. It has bailed me out a few times. And others.

What Is Torque? Torque Explained For Cars

'the 2.1-liter turbodiesel-equipped models from 1984–1987 has them beat, if only in terms of valuation spike. The indirect-injection four-cylinder used an aluminum block and head and produced a paltry 85 hp and 132 lb-ft of torque. That’s the same torque output as the base 2.5-liter four-cylinder and almost 20 percent less power. Um, torque is power. HP is the 'power' in a time frame.

I think I used Nitrile orings. Nitrile Butadiene has a higher temp rating.

I've resealed a few HO TBs. I think there is some instructions from someone else , yeah somewhere. There are two O-rings on both sides. Sometimes the shaft is fretted though. I would take out the o-rings, clean out the bearings and regrease them. Then put in new orings. The originals look to be Teflon. I forget what I used. It was not your regular black Buna-N. I think a fluorocarbon.

Saw one outside Harrison, IN. Had a towing companies logo on it.

I did a search on the NAPA site. I ran through the menu to setup a New Vehicle. Listed an 88 Jeep Comanche. Front end parts should be the same as a Cherokee too.

Depends on if the thermostat is fail open or fail close. Also, depends on ambient air temp. So, fail open and winter, at say 32 F, I'd run about 135 F.

Um, No. That what dowel plus and epoxy are for.