JustEmptyEveryPocket

I've got THIS ONE in my wish list.

I know its not what you are asking, but I recommend Shell Rotella T6 5W40 or similar, a Wix XP filter, and, if necessary, 1 quart of Marvel's Mystery Oil. My engine is well over 230,000 miles and still going strong. YMMV.

diyalldata.com Seems to be great for diagram information and shop time estimates. Fairly low rate for the amount of material I have received on other vehicles. Maybe it would help?

This is exactly what I did for my floors. Lizard skin, then used their topcoat. Its holding up great after ... 4 years? maybe 5 by now; EXCEPT where my heels sits for the gas/ brake. That is starting to rub through. Everywhere else though is great.

This^^

I had something similar on a cherokee. Clutch worked great when it was cold, but got progressively worse the hotter the vehicle got (and also the hotter the ambient temp got). Did Cruiser's trick of pumping the pedal after a short drive. Has been fine for over a month now.

Nah, I'm keeping the CAD. 2WD Low FTW. Thanks for the name of the mangled piece. What was its purpose?

Anyone know the piece from the first round of pictures?

Nasty!

Agreed. Its a Jeep. The more you beat it like a redheaded stepchild the more it likes it.

Also, I have Federal Mogul seal #710204 (says 16083 on the seal itself) for the passenger side, and Timken 710068 for the driver's side. Can anyone confirm these are correct?

So I am finally getting around to replacing the seals on my Dana 30 with CAD. (Its only been leaking for a couple of ... years ... quit looking at me like that!) While knocking the seal out of the CAD housing, this piece of mangled metal came with it. What was it originally, where did it go, can I find it new to reinstall? Thanks.

THIS is the best tool for the job. No more sucking gasoline directly into the lungs.

Enjoy it for now. It WILL change.

Could you get a tubing cutter in there? No sparks and they are fairly compact. Also, seems like the float arm would be easy to modify if you knew what length was needed. Cut it and use electric pixies to melt in extra length.

NEVER EVER trust the parts store monkeys. NEVER! Your fuel pressure should be 31 with vacuum at the regulator and 39 without while running. Before running you should have close to those numbers when the pump primes. Also it should retain pressure for at least some time after you shut the truck off.

I have been assuming we are talking about a 4.0L engine here. If thats the case, then your fuel pump is almost dead. You can try to refresh the ground for it behind the driver's taillight. Otherwise, looking into replacing the pump. Those fuel numbers are no good at all.

If it gives you any issues, let me know.

car-part.com Find a used 1994+ AX-15 in your area. Buy the bushing, master + line + slave combo. Install. Never look back. I did mine, all in, for ~$550-600.

In my (admittedly limited) experience there are two rules for long engine life: Make sure there is always oil in it. Never let it overheat. In my fleet I own one vehicle with less than 200,000 miles on it. Everything else is between 250,000 and 350,000. I check oil levels weekly and always keep an eye on the temp gauge. Seems to be working for me so far. Run it till it breaks!

Have you tried all the steps mentioned in this thread? Lots of good info there. (Sorry, couldn't help myself.)

I feel like that should be called a "back-up plan". Maybe a back-back-up plan . . .

My parents used to play a fun game with me on long road trips. It was called "Sit Still and Shut Up." Can you guess the rules? It did help me develop a very active imagination. Not a game I recommend for your nephews though.

CPS Testing - directly from Cruiser54. Fuel Pressure- I don't know what numbers you should have with just the key on. Mostly I am interested in how quickly the gauge registers, how high it goes, and how quickly (or if) it leaks down. Then after you start the truck what number does the gauge show? At that point it should be 31 with vacuum to the FPR and 39 without. Then after you shut the truck off, how long does it take before the gauge drops to zero?