JustEmptyEveryPocket

Use THESE and some 2x4s. Roll it anywhere you want.

@NickInTimeFilms Yea, like that one. Just like that one. Would pay $$ for one. Just like that.

You and me both. I'm waiting to buy till those come back.

Simple answer here. Fill the master with fluid, start the truck, crawl underneath, have your friend step on the brake. Wear goggles. When you get sprayed on by a broken line, replace it. Repeat as needed.

Your post just made me do some math. My oldest daily driver vehicle is 1985. The newest vehicle I own (my wife drives it since its the nicest) is a 2005. On average my vehicles are OVER 25 years old. I can't stand all the electric BS on new cars, not to mention sightlines are terrible (sunken cockpit anyone?) and the price makes it almost impossible to buy outright. Shrug, I'll keep my beaters going as long as I can. Then I'll buy more old, rusty, broken beaters and keep driving them. I wonder how long I can keep that cycle going?

Disclaimer: I have not used the lights you specified. However, my instant and generalized opinion: They are made by "XingMang", they cost ~$65 for a pair, and they are carried by Amazon. Taken together I would guess they suck for doing the job you describe. In my limited experience headlights are a place where you assemble your own, using quality parts and lots of time; or you pay someone else to assemble them using quality parts and their time. Either way, they won't be cheap. Currently I run Trucklites. They are alright. Next time around I am thinking about THESE. I have heard good things, but you should definitely do your own (more) research.

Ghetdjc, I can't use that website. WAY too much pink . . .

Oh, and whatever you bring, make sure it is NOT a truck. Of any type. I don't know how many times I got asked to move friends to other apartments simply because they knew I had a truck. It gets exhausting, the pizza is not good enough payment, and their other idiot frat friends broke more plastic and trim stuff than I care to remember. Just . . . help your friends move, but make sure its not using your vehicle.

A few thoughts: Reliability over cool factor. You don't want to stress about an out of tune carb'ed engine when you are late for an exam. Same token for cold starting, etc. And an MJ will break at inconvenient times, again usually exam days. Cheap over unique. You will be driving in a college town. Parking in a dorm parking lot. Sharing the road with a bunch of other freshman. Your car will get bumped, scratched, dented, and dinged. Bring something you don't care about getting some harm. Manual transmission over automatic. I say this for one simple reason-> No one will ever ask to borrow your vehicle since they won't know how to drive it. Keeps your car safe without making you look like an a@@. MPG at the bottom of the list. As long as it gets 10+mpg, then just run it. If you start tallying the math then everything else I listed above is worth way more than a larger mpg number. I know it sounds cool and all, but don't sweat it for the few years you will be driving in college. One tow truck call is equal to AT LEAST a few months of fuel driving something reliable and cheap. Best of luck!

What scale were you in? 0.2 amps is a lot of draw for a battery and could make it go dead sitting a day or so. You should be trying for ~50 milliamps or so. That is 0.05 amps. Though you should take that number with a grain of salt. Regardless, it should be quite low. @Ωhm, do you know what the acceptable draw is for a Renix?

Someone () posted a decent how-to in THIS THREAD. Check it out, and actually follow the steps, to permanently solve your problems. Report back what readings you get.

Wait, are you all trying to tell me you shift BEFORE your tach reaches that red line? I thought the red line was the upshift indicator? Might explain why I'm only in 3rd gear and at 75mph..... Joking aside, the manual transmission and 4.10s on 31" tires is a great combination. DD material for sure.

I read an article where the person put a scoop of peanut butter next to the hole. It lead the coons in to find the ground wasps (which apparently they love to eat?) The coons dig up the entire nest over night and eat all of them. Never tried it, but the writer swore by the method. Also, is #peopleofwalmart still a thing? Onion on the leg should definitely count.

Aside: Pete, to get Ω, press and hold the Alt key, then type 234, then release the alt key. There are lots of altcode symbols.

@Ωhm

I will add that, depending on age, I highly recommend you take time to stretch out before attacking the bolts under the dash. I actually unbolted my drivers seat and removed it so I could lay down to get at them. Overkill you say? Maybe, but it made it MUCH easier.

Its a great life lesson: Use lube. Applies to so many things . . .

Did you shine where the caps go with emery cloth? Also, did you run a file around the rims to make sure there were no burrs to get caught on? On reassembly did you use some type of lube? Otherwise, I would bet on issues with your shafts themselves.

I can't read the writing on your meter from the photo. The setting you are looking for is amps, usually a typed "A". You will need to select this on both the dial and where one of your wires plugs in. Then you need to put it in series with the negative post on your truck's battery. Remove the negative battery cable. Somehow attach one lead to the negative post on the battery and the other lead to the negative wire that you removed. That way your multimeter is in-between the battery and the wire that grounds on your truck. What reading do you get? Read HERE for much more detail and better explanation.

You don't have a multimeter yet? Get one. They are almost required to work on these trucks. Otherwise, what do you think you are missing? Put the meter in amp mode between the truck and the battery, check the reading, then start pulling fuses. When the reading drops you have found the circuit. Report back at that point so we can help you figure out what runs on that circuit and which is the likely culprit.

Right now, start spraying all the brakeline connections with PB Blaster or 50/50 Acetone and ATF mix. Do that for a few days in advance, at least 2-4 times a day. The reason for this is the nuts like to freeze onto the lines. So you will turn the nut out and twist the line off at the same time. Then you are stuck trying to remake brakelines, which is easy enough to do, but still a pain in the rear. Make sure you are using actual flare wrenches. Anything else will just round it off or booger it up. When you get to taking the lines off, crack it loose using the flare wrench, then immediately tighten it back up. Keep working it back and forth, slowly and progressively undoing it. From my experience this has the best chance of NOT breaking a bunch of stuff, even though it takes a lot of time and becomes annoying. Just don't rush it. I also like to spray more panther pee while undoing things. It probably doesn't do any good, but makes me feel better. Good luck.

Start by watching THIS video all the way through. Twice. Then look up some more video explanations. Search for things like "parasitic draw" and "finding amperage draw". Then dive in with your multimeter and start having fun.

Start by watching THIS video all the way through. Twice. Then look up some more video explanations. Search for things like "parasitic draw" and "finding amperage draw". Then dive in with your multimeter and start having fun. *Warning* Do not touch any exposed wire while grounded to the trucks system. This includes sparkplugs. (<Sorry I had to say it.)

You almost HAVE to find a NOS unit bearing and some NOS lugnuts to mount it with. Bolt the unit bearing to a board, screw the board to some studs in the wall. Mount the wheel to the bearing. Then it can spin free forever!