JustEmptyEveryPocket

Check CPS numbers, as well as refresh all the main ground points. After that, get a fuel pressure number. Both just by cycling the key and while running.

15W40 Rotella T6 is all I use. And I mean across the tractor, my wife's car, my truck, the pulling truck, that other jeep, that other other jeep, .... you get the idea. Also Wix or Wix XP filters. Is there an emoji of a jeeper just handing bags of money to a parts store? I need that one.

Where are you? I have a 2wd AX-15 from a project truck . . .

missing link?

Not to be pedantic (ok, thats exactly what I am being) but the best search is to type "site:comancheclub.com *search string*" into google without the "" and obviously changing out *search string* with whatever you want to find. That will limit all results to this domain.

Sorry OP.

Well, I guess so -> HERE. Apparently you have to look at what is contained in each box set and then buy additional tooling as needed.

I love the Mastercool. Worth every penny. It took me hours to flare a few lines on random repairs over the years. Lots of sweat and straining to get everything lined up and cranked down tight enough. They never came out that great. I did ALL the brake lines in my comanche in an afternoon with the mastercool. Every single flare comes out perfect each time, can be done in strange locations, and requires almost no manual force. I encourage anyone looking at brake lines to buy it. Other uses are making bumps on connectors for rubber lines to make clamping easier. Fuel lines. Etc. TLDR -> Buy it.

Dang, I like this "spending other's money" thing. How much more you got in the bank? Because I got a long list of other items and upgrades I am sure you need!

Get some tubing and fittings HERE. Get a flare tool HERE. Splurge on some gravel guard HERE. Wheel cylinders, copper crush washers for the fronts, soft lines at the front and rear, aftermarket prop valve, and delete the extra line to the rear wheels. Weekend project if you have all the tools and items together. Good luck!

I drilled mine. Has been working great for quite a while now. (years? fuzzy memory!)

Pull the part from the old NP231 that attaches to the cable and slap it into the new NP231. Bam, problem solved.

I watched a video by SouthMain Auto where he used an automatic resetting fuse. Couldn't find that exact thing back though. Anyways, good luck. Last resort is to put a paperclip in place of the fuse and follow the smoke . . .

THIS ITEM instead of a box of fuses for testing purposes? Otherwise I have no good ideas for you.

^ This sounds like good advice....

In my area we have several communities of Mennonites. Every time my family has needed a household appliance we go to their community and ask around for what they use. Every time its been hands down the best purchase compared to the regular C.R.A.P. you get at HomeDepot/ Lowes/ etc. Not sure if its viable for your region, just a thought.

Have you checked Fuel Pressure and Cylinder Compression numbers? That might be a good place to start looking at information.

Check out this stuff.

It would. I'll see about coming up with a video for that one. If you are already doing this I would recommend a small bit about using the "site:comancheclub.com *search string*" feature on google. I am more likely to use that than anything else. Even for things not comancheclub related, like limiting results to a certain journal, etc.

Balance them.

This would point me to the tires. When was the last time they were balanced? Follow-up to that question is when was the last time they were balanced by someone who knew what they were doing, cared about their work, and used a quality machine (Road Force balancers FTW)?

I had an idea for using the CAD on my D30 to control 2WD Low, 4 Hi, and 4 Low. It came to me after finding some vacuum solenoids in the junkyard. If I wire a switch in the cab, and use two solenoids connected to the vacuum actuator on the CAD, then I should be able to control when the fork moves independent of transfercase position, allowing 2WD Low if I want it or 4WD Hi/Low as needed. All the tubing coming from the transfercase has already been eliminated, so no confusion there. The problem, and I should admit I am not the brightest lightbulb when it comes to wiring (mostly because I can't get power to the bulb correctly!), is how to wire the switch and solenoids. Ideally, when the switch in the cab is off, one solenoid should be powered allowing vacuum to the side of the actuator that keeps the fork disengaged. Then when the switch is flipped on, the first solenoid should shut off and the second should be powered so it supplies vacuum to the side of the actuator that pulls the fork over and locks the two half shafts. What is the easiest (simplest!) way to do it? Can it be done without using relays? I'd like to limit what all goes into it so when it goes wrong the troubleshooting is easier. Thanks yall.

With an AC unit and a satellite dish on it? I don't think so. That's a redbilly single wide with an engine.

Grease is messy. I like using bread. Get the super squishy white bread, pack it in there, and find a bolt that fits the hole well. Start hammering and adding more bread as needed. Works great.

I had something similar happen recently. After three days in a row of drinking throughout the day (never to excess, just keeping a small buzz for hours) during a vacation I broke out in hives and severe itching similar to yours. An hour later and it was all gone. My bet would be toxic build-up with your constant drinking. The testing you have done gave your body a few days to get back to normal. If you get back to the standard drinking it will probably come back in a week or two. Not that I recommend that as a final testing procedure, but it could be definitive.