JustEmptyEveryPocket

Can you get the REM by NickinTime? (<<linked to his site) I have heard great things about it from people that own one. Personally I am waiting for the clock replacement version.

^^This is an amazing color. One day I hope to paint mine like this. BTW, love the hood pins.

The reason all the casings were removed from the house is that it was falling down. I was told parts of the roof had severe leaks and several exterior doors and windows were broken. From what I gathered the house fell into disrepair for years after the grandmother passed, then the grandkids decided they wanted to rescue some things and keep a connection. So I have been keeping it stored inside, and the picture frames will be inside. However the damage happened from outside elements. I am trying to find a way to halt that damage without changing the way the piece looks. Isn't wood glaze just a stain or pigment? Not sure how this would seal the wood. Can you elaborate more or link a product?

Since keeping a fleet of old vehicles on the road doesn't keep me busy enough I also do various construction and woodworking projects in my spare time. The most recent one is a series of picture frames made from 100+ year old door casings. The wood is special to the family because it came out of grandma's house etc etc. So they want to keep the old paint and molding profile on the wood. The problem I am running into is the paint is old and was exposed to the elements, so it is flaking off everywhere. If I try to cut, move, or even accidentally bump it I loose lots of the paint. Does anyone have an idea for stabilizing it? I was thinking to brush on some urethane, but wasn't sure how that would work. So I am turning to you all for any thoughts or experience that might help here. Thanks!

All the above quoted questions are legitimate and still awaiting an answer. The people on here know their stuff and are willing to help, but since they aren't there looking at the truck in question some information needs to be verified first. Bear with it, hang in there, and something will get figured out. Yes it may seem redundant or irrelevant, but go with it. This is really a good forum and people genuinely want to help. So plan on getting them lots of information and photos. On the photo of your 'too long' driveshaft: Is that a 2wd drivshaft? If so then it will be too long for sure. I know you posted that you got the drivelines from a 4x4 comanche, but it doesn't match what I have in my truck. Can anyone else chime in on this?

Couple of follow-ups from my original post: My truck's original gas tank rusted out. I bought the JP5A replacement spectra tank so that I could use a new cherokee style fuel level sensor. But I didn't like the idea of no baffle. So I cut out a ~12" square part of the fuel tank where the pickup tube sits and welded in a 5 sided cube. I placed it so that the vertical sides of the cube sat higher in the fuel tank, while the bottom of the cube sat below the original fuel tank bottom, to act as a sump/ baffle. There are also a few holes drilled to allow surrounding gas to flow into the sump, but not out of it easily. This has worked well for me. I can drive up (or down) steep slopes with my low gas light on and have yet to have an issue. I do not have a check valve and do not experience long crank times. But that is just one data point. YMMV. For me the biggest plus is if my pump goes bad I coast to the side of the road and use common tools (in my Oh$#!&amp; Bag) to remove the old one and install the new pump (which is also in my Oh$#!&amp; Bag). I know other people claim to be able to replace the intank pump under the truck, but I just don't see how that is viable. For me, everything is right there, easy to get to and deal with.

I swapped to an external pump. After the third time of pulling it, I got tired of dropping the fuel tank. Its been a while since I did this, and I didn't take pictures, but here is the gist of it: 1. Removed fuel pump in tank. 2. Bent brake line and attached in tank pickup using fuel rated hose. 3. Cut and spliced in a small fuel filter directly outside of tank. Something like THIS. 4. Removed original fuel filter and replaced with E2000 fuel pump. The location was ideal, and the new pump fits beautifully in this location. 5. Ran all new wiring back to the pump. Ground directly from battery ground, power directly through a relay and from the battery, and the trigger spliced into the original truck's system. Thanks to Ohm for helping me figure it all out. So the new pump functions exactly like the old one, but has better wiring and is MUCH easier to change. To be safe I also change the fuel filter at every oil change. Since it is smaller, I figure it will jam up faster. But I have been running this for ~1-2 years I think. No complaints besides the sound of the pump. I can't hear it at speeds above ~10mph, so its not really a big deal. However, in the summer, in stop and go traffic, it can be pretty miserable. But that is infrequent for me. Anyways, from my perspective, I would recommend the mod.

Huh, learn something more everyday. I take back my illegal claim, but I do not take back my hatred of that tiny c-clip.

Technically illegal, but easy enough to do. Remove speedometer, pull tiny c-clip, loose c-clip as it bounces around, spend 2 hours looking for clip, spend 2 minutes rolling odometer numbers around, curse for 2 more hours trying to re-install clip, finish. Seriously, put down a towel and WATCH THE DAMN TINY CLIP. Otherwise its straight forward.

When I swapped in my new injectors I had the same issue. My final solution was to lightly clamp on a small trigger clamp and use a dead-blow hammer to hit the clamp, thereby forcing the connector together. Was the only way I could think of to get it the last 1/2" and click in place. Be it right or wrong my truck has been leak free for 2 years now.

There is still hope.

I have gorilla sized arms and sausage sized fingers. For me I have to take the transmission crossmember and exhaust pipe loose and let everything hang down (supported by a jack stand) to be able to reach it. But don't trust me. If there is an easy way and a hard way to do a job I choose the extra hard way of doing it, every time.

I have done this before. In my frustration I drove one of my long screwdrivers through the filter and used that to turn it 45*. The I pulled the screwdriver out, punch it through again and turned the filter another 45*. After that it turned off pretty easy by hand. Learned my lesson after that. One hand, finger tight only. No matter if it is easy to get to or not.

This doesn't mean you HAVE to switch to a one piece axle, or that you HAVE to lock the actuator. I have used THIS PRODUCT and love it. Being able to choose 2wd low is fantastic. Honestly I use 2wd low more than 4wd in my daily driving. Just another option.

What makes you say this?

I take the exact opposite approach to this. No sniping intended here, just giving another viewpoint. Get 2 old (Pre 1996) vehicles. Make sure you get them cheaply, make sure they match. Wrench on them yourself, learn everything about them. Never put on expensive parts or upgrade parts. Just keep them safe & reliable. And I say get two in case on breaks down, you flip into the other one while you repair the first. Keep your eye open for "parting out" sales that match your vehicle choice. No such thing as too many spare parts. I have never (and will never) own a new car for one very simple reason: I don't earn enough money to afford them. We can do some cost break even analysis here, but suffice it to say that for me: a new car will never "pay for itself" either through saved repair money or mpg improvements. I have crunched the numbers often, and every time they show that I cannot afford a new car and I end up paying less with my two beaters in any given year than standard car payments et all. Not to mention that if you are driving something older that you own outright and you get into an accident oh well. Get a new beater and keep going. So much more cost effective, headache saving, and worry reducing. What are you going to do with that brand new car that you don't own and still owe lots of money on if you wreck it? But I understand this philosophy won't appeal to everyone.

This^. I use a BFH, couple of blocks of wood, and a few crappy sockets that have been demoted from actual socket duty. In and out in no time.

Just one more coat of bondo and you will think it came off the factory line that way.

I am sure you have thought about it, but is that enough to handle all the possible load? How far will you be running the 6/3? An AC unit draws A LOT of juice. Combine that with a welder, some lights, a radio blasting, a fan running, etc.... I can see you easily breaking the circuit/ generating heat/ etc. Just chew it around a bit. Always build bigger than you think is needed. It will turn out to not be enough in the end.

Why not put in a factory gauge cluster with everything?

Thanks for the offers guys. I actually had a day off yesterday, so I drove to the junkyard 2 hours from home on a whim. They had a ton of old cherokees buried in the weeds. I found some nice parts, including the washer bottle and all the lines and wiring for it. So I snagged all of that stuff. Hopefully I can get it rigged up next weekend. I will plan to take my fender off to do this I guess. Secondary question: I do not have, and have never had the fender liners. Any tips on where to get them and how to install them? I do have a 97+ front clip on the truck is that makes any difference at all. I assume I need the liner to protect the tank from gravel thrown by the tires?

I would love to. But if you read my initial post I mention that all my local junkyards (within an hour drive) have gotten rid of cherokees. Actually, the have gotten rid of anything 2001 and older. According to the owner of one yard they try to keep inventory at 18years old or newer. So stuff is hard to find.

I am getting around to my Fall repairs (prepping for winter) and am planning on doing Hornbrod's Windshield Washer Tank mod. I was looking at RockAuto for a reservoir (all junkyards around me are out of Cherokees ) and saw nothing for 97 Cherokee, but noticed one for a 2001 Cherokee. Does anyone know of a possible fitment issue with using a 2001 one? It was my understanding that nothing changed body wise for cherokees from 97-01. Also, does anyone know if this reservoir would come with the filler neck, motors, etc? Photo and description is lacking info. Finally, what is the best way to drill out the mounting holes? Should I take off the fender so I can see everything perfectly? Or can this be done with the fender on the truck? Thanks for any and all help.

That statement right there lets me know we could be good friends. I don't mind a built rig, just don't break down something nice to make it. Welcome to CC!

I have experience with at least 5 different vehicles. In each case I looked into companies to ship them and got all the quotes. Then I figured up the cost to take a day or two off of work, rent a trailer, and drive it myself. Every time it was cheaper for me to go and get the vehicle than it was to have it shipped. I live in Missouri and this has been true for vehicles in western Texas, Salt Lake City Utah, and far eastern Illinois. Not to mention going myself lets me look at the vehicle in person before paying out (in case it is not as described by seller) and I can make sure to strap it down properly and keep the possibility of damage/ wreckage lower.