JustEmptyEveryPocket

If planes can carry a space shuttle piggyback they should be able to handle a car of two, right?

yup. With a rather funny stance.

Your question made me think of THIS question & answer. I think 'the line' is a specious ideal. A continuum would be a better concept. One where it depends. And since this is potential life and livelihood we are defending, we should err on the side of the people. So there should not be a limit. All arms should be available to all people. No documentation, no registration, no licenses, etc. Sure there would be a few bloody years where people learn how it works, but after that it would become common place. Think of the advent of cars for the average joe. There were some terrible accidents and loss of life. But we learned, adapted, and incorporated it into our lives. The same would happen with unregulated guns and firearms.

Does anyone live close to Macon Georgia by chance? I've got a possible MJ in need of rescue from the crusher.

I was in the same situation as you. Booster was failing, so I went whole hog and redid everything. Dual diaphragm booster, distribution block, proportioning valve, all lines, etc. I am less than impressed. Braking power feels similar to original booster when it was working properly. Big let-down. Just fix/ replace with similar items in this case. Keeps life and your rig simple.

Skip the machine shop portion. Pull the head off (carefully, undo each head bolt a few threads at a time in a criss-cross pattern), clean the mating surface up, put on new gasket, stick the head back on, tighten bolts according to FSM, have a beer.

Not piling on here, but I don't understand this statement at all. What are you trying to ask here?

Its not really a question of "where can I find it", but more a question of "are you willing to pay what its takes to get one made?" I have no doubts that someone (possibly Painless) can make one. Just be ready to foot the bill. Also, take the time to call and talk to someone at whatever company you choose. Nothing like actual one on one conversation.

I just removed that from my truck. Its not needed. As Big Dan said, it only helps warm the intake air for the first few minutes of running, then a plate blocks this inlet. So just run it without imo.

Moderators will prob come along and mention this, but since I'm here: Classifieds will open up to you after 10 posts. Until then it is recommended to start a build page for your truck. Even if you rig is stock, post up some pictures, previous outings you have had, fond memories, etc. Also put your VIN up in the Registry. EagleScout does an awesome job of decoding it and posting what you truck had for stock options. The 10 posts will go by quickly, then you can start posting in the Wanted section, or messaging in the For Sale section.

Or maybe you have an awesome magic truck that makes more fuel for itself the longer you let it sit...... but probably its a broken wire.

Someone who knows better than me can correct this, but I believe 1). there is not a good aftermarket roll bar for our trucks, 2). of course look for a stock one, but good luck. It will take you some time to find one, 3). They attach with two plates, one on either side of the bed metal and bolted. There are four attachment points, two in the front corners of the beds, two in the front of the wheelwells. The coolest roll bar idea I ever read about was a guy who bought some 2" (maybe 2.5"?) pvc pipe an connections. He then cut and fit it into a roll bar on his truck so he could see exactly how it would end up and get true measurements. Then he could buy metal pipe in whatever size/flavor he thought looked best, cut it and fit it, then took the entire mess to shop to get welded. Easy & cheap(-ish) way to build your own exactly the way you want it. Check out THIS LINK for more ideas. Good luck.

Personally I like this look for some classic muscle cars. Mad Max feel to it. This one isn't bad at all, but lets say you combine a 73/74 Dodge Charger with a 12V Cummins on a lifted 4x4 frame like this ...

I'm the motto!

This all the way. Don't even bother with getting a puller tool. And instead of getting a bolt that is the correct diameter, I used a socket. Put a 6" extension BACKWARDS on the socket (meaning the extension is stuck into the open socket where you usually have it on a bolt head) and use that to hammer the pilot bearing out. Bread was so much easier than grease to clean up afterwards and you don't need a perfect fit to get enough hydraulic pressure.

Haha, didn't know that even existed.

This all the way. I took my truck to a shop where the machine read 3.5*+ caster. And the technician said that was factory and I was good to go. When I pressed him he said he didn't know how to change it on my truck and that anything over 3 degrees is completely safe to drive on. He kept insisting that Jeeps came with about 3* from the factory. I took it home and adjusted it myself. After playing around with it a little bit I went with 10*. I know its way over spec, but it gave me the best on road feel. Never trust shops, at least around me. Do it yourself so you know its done right. Set caster as described above, and set toe-in with a tape measure. Drive away happy thinking of all the money you just saved yourself.

But roadtrips! Think of the memories. People here can chime in on some of those I am sure.

I will never buy or drive one, and here's why. *steps onto soapbox* 1. The bed size is ridiculously small. Why even bother? What makes a truck useful is worthless on this model. 2. The backseat is HUGE. Now that I am married and own a house with a nice bed, I don't need that much room back there. Its a waste of frame length and wheelspace. Give me something like the 90's dodges or tacomas had for a rear seating space. 3. At a bare minimum its $40,000 overpriced. But this goes for EVERY car being sold these days. I'm not that old, and I still remember when new cars were reasonably priced. 4. Soccer Mom Gadgets. Who needs all that crap everywhere? Its a truck, I don't need it to heat and cool my nether regions why I search the internet going 70mph down the highway on cruise and auto lane detecting, listening to the new boy band of the month on an overpriced sound system while my wife does her make-up in the lighted sun visor, waiting for the plug in blender to finish her margarita, and a travel buddy sleeps in the twin bed sized rear seat area. No-one needs rear-view cameras (mirrors for poor men) or onboard GPS systems (paper maps for poor men) or sound systems (conversations for poor men) or 7" displays in the dash to watch movies on (imagination for poor men). I mean seriously, where does it end? 5. Off-road look from the factory. The reason this is cool and desirable is because people put in time, money, and creativity to make their rigs look cool. Why should anyone be able to go out and just buy it? To me, its something that needs to be earned, not given. 6. Terrible body proportions. It just looks ugly. I figure the design guys could do better than "lets hacksaw the rear hatch off a new wrangler and the bed off a miniature truck and JB weld them together. That will look just fine". *steps off soapbox* Thank you for listening. That concludes today's TedTalkrx.

Thats a bummer. If you can get at it with a striking device of some sort you should be able to crack and crumble it out of the hole. Good forearm/ arm workout in there for you. Good luck. Can you post a photo with the cherokee bumper installed when you get it figured out? I'd be curious what it looks like with the hitch mount.

Nothing to do with emissions. Like SuperSwede said, it just collects heat off the exhaust manifold and directs it into the airbox to help with cold starts. The vacuum lines are to close a small gate/ door after things warm up so that the truck pulls air in through the normal port behind the headlight. If it was me I would just get rid of it. No reason it should affect inspections, even in states that check for stock emission equipment.

I use transfer case neutral for warm-up on my truck. I start the engine, put the transfer case in neutral, shift into 3rd gear (manual gear box), and let it warm-up at idle for ~3-5 minutes. To my mind it helps get the cold oil in the transmission moving and everywhere it needs to be before I put a load on it, decreasing wear and tear. Neutral can also be useful for rotating the driveshafts, or rolling the truck around without starting it. Honestly I have also used it to help with diagnostics: When I was hearing a sound in the drivetrain it let me eliminate axles, driveshafts, and transfercase output from being the issue. So I wouldn't say "[you]'ll never need to use it".

I see you driving I-70 through Missouri. I live in the middle of the stretch and maybe 3 miles off the interstate. Could easily offer you a room for the night and a good meal. Plus a look at my DD comanche and all my project jeeps. If you do this trip (and want to stop by), PM me and we can figure it out.

Do you have a link or photos of this? Could start a new thread of "just put down the circular saw and back away slowly..."

I have some in my parts pile. For shipping I could send one to you. PM me if you want.