JustEmptyEveryPocket

Yea, Derf nailed it.

Do you mean gravel guard? IMO that would be better than plastic loom. But rather challenging to get on if you have terminated the ends on your brake line. Not impossible, but challenging. Otherwise, well done! Everything in the thread looks good.

No tomato? Ever but guacamole on it? Then it becomes an LGBT+. Lettuce, guacamole, bacon, tomato. *now hiding from potential SJW reprisals*

This project has been put on my To Do List, because its awesome. I often sit on my tailgate, but wish for a back rest and padding. And here is the solution. Thanks for putting it up here!

And you can cut the floor out of your truck and flinstone it down the road. Not that I would recommend either option. At least not without very careful consideration and numerated reasoning. On to the OP's question: Reliable sources agree you need the AX-15 cross member for the aforementioned step-down portion. However, there is a way around it. Check out THIS THREAD for photos and explanations. Although, let me emphasize again that an AX-15 cross member would be best. To find one, I highly recommend searching and calling people through car-part.com. Check out THIS LINK to see different cross members. Note there are automatics and manuals mixed together, so do a little searching. But I bet you can find one semi close and get it shipped in for fairly cheap.

My advice is to always drop the tank. The time it takes to drop it is saved by not having to fiddle around trying to get things to line up and get the lock ring back in. Just like you are experiencing right now. Best of luck.

So I have been through a few forums and lots of threads to try and answer the following question: With small modifications, can the block out of a 2000 WJ (4.0L engine obviously) be put into a 94 ZJ (again, 4.0L)? I will use the head from the 94 ZJ (cleaned and done up by a professional) and swap over all the engine accessories from the ZJ as well. Just need the block . . . I am using these three threads as evidence that it is possible. Does anyone have first hand experience on this? http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?25857-wj-meets-xj https://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=168732

That seems like a good reason to think its factory. Learned something new today.

THIS THREAD might answer your question. Try Googling the following: "site:comancheclub.com updated rear flares" which will limit search results to comancheclub.com only. Great for finding old or hard to locate threads.

Why do you guarantee it? I'm genuinely curious because personally I have not seen this type of plug. Not that I have seen more than 3-4 NP 231s.

Yes! I don't know who, but I am positive someone does. *chuckling at myself* Sorry I am a little slap happy. Been cooped up in the house too long. Excuse my bad attempt at humor.

A couple of hole saws, a big forstner bit and some time. Maybe a power carver. Would be easy to get a wooden blank to fit perfectly and do exactly what you need.

What about getting THIS TOOL, which does all kinds of flares and fuel line fittings. Then do a combo of a fuel quick disconnect (IMAGE HERE) and a regular bubble flare right at the end?

Time for a custom hood scoop? Face it towards the windshield and install a fan into to help pull air through the engine bay. Combined with some Rain-X you would never need to use windshield wipers again.

Seriously well done. That is more of a project than I would have wanted to take on. (debbie downer mode engaged) I'll give you the dancing banana after you re-install and prove it all works!

When a drywaller gets into car repair . . . Float coat, followed by skim coat. No-one will ever notice.

Why? I understand the diesel application needing more, but new cars?

I was watching videos and came across THIS ONE. ~40 minutes to replace the battery! WTH? Well it obviously takes that long since we are supposed to remove the rear seats. Just throwing it out for laughs, but man this seems stupid. I will NEVER own a car past ~2000. Preferably I am gonna stay sub 1995!

Here is where I would start: Put the project on hold for 2-3 months. Store the truck in a dry, semi-warm spot. During that time frame, dedicate HOURS a day to watching youtube videos and reading threads. Start with everything by BleepinJeep and Eastwood Company on YouTube and branch out from there. When you get tired of watching videos, start reading ALL the threads here. Epic Tech, DIY Forum, and Member Projects. And I'm not joking, read every thread, every message, spend time with each picture. After that, figure out a budget. Think about what you want the truck to look like in the end and then figure up everything to get there. Take whatever number you expect to pay for the complete restoration of your truck and then multiply it by 2.5. That will get you close to an actual estimate although its probably still low. Find local jeep clubs and salvage yards. You are gonna get pretty friendly with all of them before this is done. Finally, get to know Excel. Document everything from part numbers to receipts to install dates to how you changed the wiring harness and what you added. Record everything! Lift kit? New tires? Paint? Tools? Record it all! And all of this is BEFORE you touch another bolt on the truck. Once you get your bearings (pun intended) then you can start back on the truck. But to put it nicely, you got some serious learnin to do! Now don't take me as debbie downer. I am just a realist. And this is where you realistically need to start before taking on this huge project. Please keep us updated. And start a build thread here when you know what you are doing!

Best advice right here.

6.5" lift, big tires, 1 ton axles? Thats not a 'restore' and never will be. My advice (and this is hard to follow) is to leave it alone until you get it running and driving. Unless you are ready to drop $10,000 to start this rebuild, don't do anything major. Fix whats broken and keep it stock. Drive it and enjoy it that way. Read through Epic Tech here and get ideas. Make notes. Keep a running list and mental inventory. Then when you have everything figured out drop the money and do it right. Or keep the truck as is. They aren't around any more, and it hurts the whole community when a decent stock rig gets whacked up as a 'build project'. They are amazingly capable from stock to do easy/ fun wheeling. *insert unpopular puffin* But hey, thats just my opinion. Take it for whats its worth.

The first read-through of your comment " " I read it as "tell you to stop spreading your lies"! Took me aback for a moment until I slowed down and read ALL the letters in ALL the words. Anyways: Team 2wd Low FTW! Anyone interested should look into a posi-lock system. Combine that with a boostwerks shift linkage for the 231. Everything is awesome!

I know mine should, but it never has. Any time I try (at any speed from 10mph - 50mph) it just gives me terrible grinding and no engagement. So the posi-lock is my solution. Has been working great for 3 years now. In this case, I will take what works.

*sigh* To each their own and whatever works I guess

Is...is that the "pee pee palace" behind you? That just makes me crave their oriental food.